Twisted crank? '82 GS1100E

[TheCafeKid]

"The Cafe Kid", at the risk of me being called a dumas, please elaborate on how the rotor threads will tell you if the crank is twisted. The threads on my 80 that spun the rotor were perfect, just the nut had come loose. I dont suspect anything is wrong, Im just curious about it

Did i say that?? I dont recall saying such a silly thing?? I think i said that you can tell by looking at the rotor threads whether or not you have the big end welded crank....ANd I might ADD, thats im MOST cases, it wouldnt suprise me if the THIRD rotor type wasnt used on the 82 motors as well, but its at lEAST a good clue..

 

[woodman]

"the rotor threads will tell you... " Thats your whole post, your words, maybe I misinterpered them

 

[TheCafeKid]

Not exactly...BUT, supposedly anything AFTER June of 82, and with the motor number higher than 14K have a VERY HIGH chance of having the big end welded crank in them.. Bert, you can tell simply by pulling the Stator cover...

No and its a very different kind of high frequency vibration, I have a Fatboy too. How do you tell by taking the stator cover off, all I see is the crank end and a seal ?

the rotor threads will tell you...

That make it more complete??

 

[gearhead13]

You poor guys with your pressed together cranks
Mine is forged steel, double cross drilled, aint gonna twist that sucker.

 

[bonanzadave]

Back when Dave and Isleoman did it, it probably fell under warranty..

Yes it did. That crank, a set of front brake rotors, and a stator. That Zuk dealer hated to see me.

 

[TheCafeKid]

You poor guys with your pressed together cranks
Mine is forged steel, double cross drilled, aint gonna twist that sucker.

No, wont twist it...You'll just blow the bearings out of it

 

[cromwell1234]

We touched on this subject a while ago, its a tough call!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134656

 

[Spyderman]

so if a guy has the head off which i happen to then as i rotate the crank to TDC 1&4 then the top edge of the piston should be flush with the top of the cylinder bore correct and the same applies for 2&3 TDC
if all 4 match the top outside edge of the piston to the top of the cylinder bore then all is right in the crank world correct?

 

[Guest]

1&4 and 2&3 should be even in the bores.

 

[don_gibb6512]

MINIMAL, the cost of a GOOD used, or new crank, & all the gaskets. Depending on mileage on the motor I would do other things. Pull the motor, pull the entire top end, split the cases, replace parts & re-assemble. Ray.

Easy for you to say. Geesh.

 

[rapidray]

I have a 16 inch long, hard chromed, precision ground steel rod that is .002 under 18 mm in diameter & is the BEST thing to use to check crank indexing with. With all the pistons off the crank, if the rod will go into all four connecting rod wrist pin holes together, the crank is correctly indexed. If it won't go through all 4, time to fix the crank! Ray.

 

[Spyderman]

1&4 and 2&3 should be even in the bores.

then i'm good cause they both match in the bores 1&4 and 2&3 are equal in the bores
thank you

 

[posplayr]

No Say Nixx eh

No Say Nixx eh

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1039724&postcount=27

As mentioned by Dmorris early in this thread. Trying to use TDC as an indicator of cank twist is about the worst way to do it.

At TDC it takes the following angular changes in the crank to see any the indicated changes in TDC piston height.

1 degree is 0.4 thousands of an inch
2 degree is 1.5 thousands " "
5 degree is 9.5 thousands " "
10 degree is 38 thousands " "

With differences in carbon build up between cylinders your best hope is that yu are within +/- 5 degrees of twist using this method. How sharp is your pencil?

Most accuracte way is to use a degree wheel and an engine stop whose length is set to stop the piston at the middle of it's stroke.

Just sos you know. :-\\\

The above calculations are the result of translating rotational motion to linear motion at TDC for a 2.5" stroke crank.

 

[posplayr]

I have a 16 inch long, hard chromed, precision ground steel rod that is .002 under 18 mm in diameter & is the BEST thing to use to check crank indexing with. With all the pistons off the crank, if the rod will go into all four connecting rod wrist pin holes together, the crank is correctly indexed. If it won't go through all 4, time to fix the crank! Ray.

Ray I just calculated the accuracy and you are at about 0.1 degrees accuracte if the rod is straight and goes through the holes.

Add 0.1 degrees for each 0.004" of runnout in the rod.

 

[Guest]

I have a 16 inch long, hard chromed, precision ground steel rod that is .002 under 18 mm in diameter & is the BEST thing to use to check crank indexing with. With all the pistons off the crank, if the rod will go into all four connecting rod wrist pin holes together, the crank is correctly indexed. If it won't go through all 4, time to fix the crank! Ray.

Sounds kinky. :-k

 

[blowerbike]

Sounds kinky. :-k

its called an index rod...falicon sells them in 17-18-20mm sizes for z1-kz-J-gs models that have a pressed pin crank.
i have all three.

 

[rapidray]

I KNEW you would say something Bill!! LOL!! Terry, I had the Falicon rod first & it was too loose. No QA on their part back then I guess. I had a machinist friend make mine & then it was hard chromed & ground to size. It has 1 TENTH of a thousandth runout in 16 inches. Overkill? Probably, but that's the way I do stuff. My stuff lives this way. Ray.

 

[gggGary]

Twisted crank revisited.

Twisted crank revisited.

The degree wheel is a nice touch and all but not really necessary, turn the crank so that 1 and 4 are about 1/2 way down, compare depth from the plug holes on 1& 4 if they are the same you are good, if they are different so is your crank. I used the depth rod on the end of my digital caliper. Put the plug adapter from my compression gauge in the plug hole(s) to help keep it lined up the same, side to side. The zero function on a digital caliper is a wonderful thing.
I just checked mine that way and came up with 1.1mm difference between 1 & 4 in round numbers or .004" So it seems like I have a straight crank in my 82 with engine # 146889 bike was built 02-82
That sound reasonable to you's guys?
Now for a new thread about overhaul ideas.

 

[tkent02]

Another question, did the chain drive 1000cc engines ever come from Suzuki with a welded crank?

If so when?

 

[Nessism]

Another question, did the chain drive 1000cc engines ever come from Suzuki with a welded crank?

If so when?

8V didn't, but 16V may have (not sure).