Valve shims

[Guest]

Is there a re-usable Valve cover gasket for the 1980 GS1000. My 2005 gs500f has a nice rubbery valve cover gasket that comes off real nice. I always tear up the one on the GS1000 and have to get a new one .

Grease it....
Dont know first hand but others say it works.

 

[Steve]

Is there a re-usable Valve cover gasket for the 1980 GS1000. My 2005 gs500f has a nice rubbery valve cover gasket that comes off real nice. I always tear up the one on the GS1000 and have to get a new one .

If your tach drive is in the head and not in the valve cover, you can try Real Gasket.

Another solution is to spray the stock gasket with WD-40 before installation.

.

 

[bwringer]

Here are the feeler gauges I have -- they start at .03mm:
http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-32-blade-dual-reading-combination-feeler-gauge-set

These are metric feelers, but they also have inch measurements marked, which are fairly easy to ignore.

There are at least three or four shops I can think of in Indy that I know stock these, and I've seen a rack of BikeMaster tools at just about every non-Harley bike shoppe I've been in.

GS valve clearances are incredibly small -- the .03mm gauge is barely a piece of foil. It's very, very common for two or more of the thin blades to stick together with the surface tension of the oil (you have to keep them coated with oil anyway to ensure they don't rust, and they pick up plenty of engine oil in the line of duty), so make sure you have good light and if your feeler gauge won't go in or something doesn't make sense, make sure you're only using one at a time.

Also, in case you're wondering, you can't stack two or more feelers to measure a larger clearance. The oil film coating them adds a certain amount of clearance. The oil film doesn't affect accuracy when you're just using one blade, but oil behaves very differently when it's between two flat surfaces. Google oil film strength for more info -- it's what makes engines possible...

 

[Steve]

GS valve clearances are incredibly small -- the .03mm gauge is barely a piece of foil. ...

Yep. The thickness of a piece of paper is generally accepted as 0.003".
That is basically the same as the maximum clearance for our valves, or 0.08 mm.
That means that the 0.03 mm is less than half a piece of paper.

.

 

[lurch12_2000]

....Also, in case you're wondering, you can't stack two or more feelers to measure a larger clearance. The oil film coating them adds a certain amount of clearance. The oil film doesn't affect accuracy when you're just using one blade, but oil behaves very differently when it's between two flat surfaces. Google oil film strength for more info -- it's what makes engines possible...

Although I would agree in theory with this, I've successfully done it to determine a range between .127mm and .15mm to better narrow down what shim size I will need to order or swap on many of my adjustments. For final clearance I always have the correct feeler gauge size ranges I need between .038mm and .10mm for final measurement. If doubling up I always wipe both feeler gauges completely clean, press together tightly and then insert to estimate what size I need. There is no substitute for a good set with full size ranges for under $10 but to narrow down what shims you need to order if you don't, doubling up clean feeler gauges will work. I would hate to order wrong size shims and between juggling and calculating new shim sizes needed I've never had to order, reorder, or swap with someone more than 2 shims per valve adjustment job....and some have been more than one size drop (.05mm).

...and yes, that .038mm gauge will wrinkle easily if your not careful, so I usually slide it in at an angle instead of trying to push straight in and have it crumple up because of slight oil resistance (yes it does resist sliding when oil is cold as it should be when checking clearances up here in my 35 degree garage!) on the surface.

 

[Guest]

Finished

Finished

I went to a bike shop in Fairfield, Ca. Got some used shims 4 bucks each I had none to trade. Jim's Cycle Repair, he has a ton of old bikes and parts in his building. Just a narrow path from the front to the back. He also has a barn near Sacramento that is stuffed from top to bottom with bikes and parts. Anyway I got all the valves adjusted. I ordered a valve cover gasket from realgasket re-usable for the life of the bike. I just used the feeler gauges I have. I got the Steve's Spreadsheet so I can keep track now. Thanks Steve and for the help from you other guys.

 

[gert du prez]

Do as they say...

Do as they say...

Hi,

yesterday, finally, after 4 months of struggling with too small shims and some other issues, finished the valve adjustment. Had also finished the 'coil relay modification'. Will still need to synch carbs and colour tune.

the results so far:

BEFORE:

29 year old bike would hardly start after a minute of struggle, even if it was only a day or so that it was driven.

AFTER (without carb synch or colour tune):

cold, wet bike in storage for 4 months started up from the first second. I will repeat: from the first second = 1 touch of the starter button. Old plugs, old fuel,...it did not matter...
Now, I don't know if it is the coil relay mod or the valve adjustment that is mostly assisting (or both equally), but I really don't care...

Listen to what people say on this forum:
- do the R/R swap
- mail Mr. Steve for the valve spreadsheet and use it (meaning, do a valve adjustment)
- buy the RealGaskets
- change those old intake rubber boots (both airbox and engine side)
- do the coil relay modification.
- do the front fork seal replacement

Congratulations ! you have practically bought yourself a new bike !

 

[gert du prez]

Hell, I didn't even changed the O-rings in the carbs or checked the air filter :-s

 

[bwringer]

Well done! Woo hooooo!


And I agree -- a GS should start instantly every time, and be ready to ride safely in less than 30 seconds on the coldest morning, with the choke off in less than a minute.

If not, there's a problem.

There's no such thing as a bike that's "tired". Phrases like "well, it is almost 30 years old" or "it's sort of cold-blooded" are excuses. Instead of anthropomorphizing, you have to find and fix the problem(s).

 

[Larry D]

Great Job !!!

I had to look that one up Brian........

anthropomorphism - the representation of objects as having human form or traits

 

[gert du prez]

I do not only have to look it up, I have to translate it as well !

 

[ironfoot]

Great, Mike10! I am in the middle of my 1st valve adjustment also and your outcome is encouraging. When I got my GS1000 it was "cold blooded" and very hard to start on a 20 degree day. The following week it warmed up to 40* with not much better results.

Not to high jack your thread but Gert mentioned this as essential:

"change those old intake rubber boots (both airbox and engine side)"

My next move is to the carbs and I have yet to find anybody who sells the intake boots (engine side) for a GS1000C. Anyone have a source?

 

[gert du prez]

I bought everything via Z1 enterprises (as here in Belgium you cannot find these via the Suzuki dealer shop).

I now buy anything via Z1, even though it cost me some more on shipping charges and adds 5 days in delay...it is still better than to be treated like hell by an official suzuki dealer (Shims, sir ? we don't do that anymore, that is for bikes like...I dunno, really some time ago ...)

Then my question: 'but what would you do if I brought in my bike for a valve clearance adjustment job ?'
well, then it sounds just like the emptiness in their heads...

so, Z1 is the one you need, even the stuff they don't have for me, they buy and collect these and then make 1 nice package and ship.

 

[ironfoot]

Thanks, Gert. I have just started ordering parts through Z1, and didn't find the boots in their online catalog. I will contact them and put in a request as you suggest.

The Suzuki dealers here are not much better, they wanted $13 a shim, and $124 for a tappet depression tool

 

[gert du prez]

that is a good choice.
Chris (from Z1 Enterprises) treats you like a real customer: he will inform you when the goods are in his office, he will inform you when the package is shipped,...

They have also a good knowledge of the GS-series, so state your model so that they can make the link with what you ordered...
No, I don't get an extra discount for the appraisal, they are just worth it...

what I have learned so far:

- realgaskets for the orange breather cover and cylinder valve cover gasket (or how do you call it)
- AN plumbing for the steel hose brake lines (excellent stuff)
- Duaneage for the Honda RR (I made a post about this earlier)
- the carb O-rings set from Mr. Robert Barr (see Basscliff's site)

now I only need someone who can ship me the Aerostich Combat Touring boots and I'm set for the year...

by the way, don't spend the money on a valve tappet depressor, the self-made zip tie is super fast and so ridiculously easy...

One hint from Mr. Steve for the home-made zip tie: use some electrical tape to hold the folded tip of the zip tie together, so that it is not too thick. Otherwise, you will never be able to shove it between the valve and the cylinder head...

 

[ironfoot]

Yes, I went with the zip tie method shortly after hearing the cost of a tool with $1's worth of material in it. Good tip on the electrical tape; thanks Steve and Gert

 

[Steve]

...; thanks Steve ...

.....................


.

 

[bwringer]

by the way, don't spend the money on a valve tappet depressor, the self-made zip tie is super fast and so ridiculously easy...

Uh, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the zip-tie method (the outraged howling of cheapskates has taught me to never disparage the mighty zip-tie), but the proper shim tool is only $13.60 at Z1... http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

It's only $15-$20 everywhere else.

 

[Guest]

Uh, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the zip-tie method (the outraged howling of cheapskates has taught me to never disparage the mighty zip-tie), but the proper shim tool is only $13.60 at Z1... http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

It's only $15-$20 everywhere else.

PLus 9 million dollars shipping.

 

[Steve]

Uh, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the zip-tie method (the outraged howling of cheapskates has taught me to never disparage the mighty zip-tie), but the proper shim tool is only $13.60 at Z1... http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

It's only $15-$20 everywhere else.

Well, just to let you know, I have the tool.

It's just so

frustrating to use the

thing.


For those who think "the tool" works well, please let me come observe, to see what I'm doing wrong.

.