Wet sanding before clear?

[Guest]

Okay, so I have been struggling getting my tank painted. I am painting it black using duplicolors factory match paint. I choose the chevy black which has a very slight metallic sparkle in it. Anyway, the paint went on rather dull even after laying it down up close. So, I was going to sand it down and try a different paint. So I wet sanded it using 400 grit. When I went to wash off the residue, as it sat there wet it was absolutely beautiful. Deep black with just a hint of metallic flake. I'm like, that's exactly what I wanted! Obviously, after the water dried, I have a smooth but scuffed and dull tank now.

So, can I use like spraymax 2k clear over this scuffed and dull black to get that same look as when it was wet with water or will it just be a end up as a scuffed and dull, albeit glossy, black?

Thanks,

Sci85

 

[Flyboy]

Sci, here is the trick, base coat dries to a dull matt finish, it is not supposed to shine, once you put the clear over it, it comes to life.
If you are working with a metallic, you should, at all costs avoid sanding the base coat before laying down the clear, it disturbs the metallic flakes.
Only sand where absolutely necessary and as little as you can get away with.

I am doing Jennifer in the same black with a fine silver flake in it, I am using BMW Cosmos Black.

Base coat, note the matt finish

After applying the clear coat.

 

[Guest]

Ok perfect. That helps Flyboy. Mine was just not uniformly dull across the surface and I am having trouble getting it to be that way since. Not a problem on smaller pieces but finding it difficult with something as large as the tank. Will give it another shot once the humidty drops back down around here. BTW, I am using aerosol. Is that what you used too?

And, BTW, that panel looks freaking awesome.

 

[chuck hahn]

You can wet sand the clear to get that super smooth surface and apply a few coats to add depth.

 

[Flyboy]

Sci, the uneven look may be due to hunidity, as you say or technique when laying the paint down. I am on the phone so typing is a drag, so I am not going to get into it now, I am sure the paint gurus who know far better than I will chip in.
Yep my paint coes out of a can, I don't have a compresor, the condo Nazis would do a back flip.
Thanks for the compliment, but it was a stuff up, it is sitting in my garage, sanded back down waiting to be redone.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I'm thinking maybe you're right. I should have known better than to spray in 100% humidity.

Wow, if that's what your flubb's look like, I can't wait to see what you feel is adequate!

 

[nvr2old]

The info from Flyboy and Chuck is right on the money. Spray your base color, get the metallic even, then immediately spray your clear coats. 3-4 coats of clear, then wet sand with 800-1,000-1,500 and finally 2000 grit. Then rub it out with first with a heavy rubbing compound, followed by a medium compound, then a final glaze, all with a buffer all with progressively finer pads. Wool, then foam. That's the only way to get the liquid smooth finish. It has to be done in progressive steps. Each step removing the scratches of the previous step. Also, the humidity has to be less then 80%.

 

[Guest]

Well, I tried again today (54% humidity, yay!). I finally got the base to lay down nice and even but as it dried, there was something wrong with the underlying base coat that made it look very splotchy in some areas. So, with layers of paint already on the tank, I decided to bite the bullet and sand here back down to bare and start over. At least now I have the procedure and will carefully prep this time too using all the same brand paint except for the clear coat. Hopefully 3rd times the charm!

 

[jeff315131]

Paint

Paint

Hello Sci If you have any more questions I will answer as best I can I have been a collision tech and painting for 20 years now. Your prep work is the key to a good finish!! Do not clear over sanded base coat. you will see the sanded areas when cleared. Keep the tip of the gun or poof can the same distance at all times to get best and uniform coats, not to wet this is what is causing your look that you are seeing.To close wet, to far dry, wet metalics will lay down, dry and they tend to stand this reflects light differently. when you think you are ready for your last coat of base, take 800 or 1000 grit paper and just sand the dirt specks off, you are not trying to sand the whole part. Then your final coat should be just enough to hide the sand marks(spray whole part, not just sanded areas) Now you are ready for clear. I hope this helps you. Good luck and take your time.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Pay attention to the distance from the tank that you are spraying also KEEP the can shaken up

 

[Guest]

Ok thanks everyone. I will hopefully have the tank finish sanded tomorrow and ready for another try on Sunday. Will post some pics when done.

 

[Flyboy]

Phaaaa, Sci, you will do just fine, take your time and it will all work out.
What has already been said;
Make sure you hold the can the same distance from the tank at all times.
Make sure you have the spray 90 degrees to the tank at all times.
Make sure your speed across the tank as you move from side to side is the same at all times.
Lastly, when changing direction once reaching the end of the tank, make sure that you start the flow of paint before you hit the tank and keep it going until you are off the tank on the other side.
Piece of old takkie, now go lay down some paint down and give us something to drool over.
We want pics, lots of 'em, you know how we love pics.

 

[Guest]

Ok, i sanded it all back down, feathered all the bondo edges again, then laid down a fresh coat of primer. Now, I have a few questions. As you can see in the photo's below, the sheen is different where it was bare metal versus where there is some bondo. There is no actual edge that can be felt. Will this sheen difference also show up on the base coat (black) and if so, how do I correct it? More primer coats or ?

Thanks guys,

Sci85

 

[kdo58]

i would not take any chances, i would put on more primer.

 

[Flyboy]

Sci, I work to this rule,"if you can feel it, you will see it" no matter how small.
In fact, just before I lay down colour, I run my bottom lip across the piecem as it is much more sensitive than work hardened finger tips, I must look like a right idiot, if anyone saw me, they would have me certified, some would argue that they should, regardless.
Point is, no matter how small the imperfection, it will show as soon as colour goes down.
But if you can't feel anything, you should be good to go, blemishes should not matter, they will just cover, but kdo has a point, for an extra coat or two of primer and another hour out of your life, why take a chance, give it another coat, what the heck.

 

[Guest]

Nope, can't feel nothin but then again, I haven't kissed it

Alright, I will go get some more primer and put another coat on tomorrow and see of that covers up the differences.

 

[Flyboy]

Sci, I meant, if you have primer and it is no hassle, if you have to delay the whole process and go out and buy more primer, I would just start laying down colour, I am far too antsy to wait like that if the piece is good.
You have more patience than me, brother.
If the piece is smooth and you can feel no blemishes, .......... :-\\\
You can always wet sand the first coat or two of colour to smooth things out if needed.

 

[nvr2old]

A couple more coats of primer won't hurt, and remember, you still need to block sand the primer before painting it again. Block sanding will blend in the areas of concern you have. Fog a very light "guide coat" of black over it first and then sand it with 400 grit. That will show you any defects or scratches. Finish sanding it with some 600 grit just to remove the 400 scratches then spray your base coat again followed by the clear, all in one session. BTW, a really good way to feel defects, is by using a shop rag between your hand and the surface you're feeling. The rag actually amplifies the feeling way better then just your bare hand.

 

[Flyboy]

Very interesting tip about using the shop rag, who would have thought.
Have you relocated and started the new job yet Larry?
If so, I hope it is going well, how about a link to your audio stream and what times you are on.

 

[G. Bruns]

Sci... Two pieces of advice for you that haven't been mentioned. 1. Spray a mist coast and let it set up for 5 minutes before you start painting. 2. when wet sanding, the less scratches you put in, the less you need to get out. I only used 1500 grit on my most recent tank, then 3M Scratch Remover and it came out BEAUTIFULLY!!!