• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

what did you wrench on today??

A future GSer.
I seem to get dirty as soon as i walk into the garage, how did you keep your helper so clean? haha.
I don't. :oops:

Grandma (Mrs. Steve) had just brought him out on the cart that he is sitting on. He saw tools (toys) and headed straight for them. Those pictures are within the first minute. To be sure, a few minutes later he went for a swim in the shop sink and his clothes were doing their own swimming in the washing machine.

ACB6B3AE-C9BD-4660-BC4A-CA9495DE96FC_zpshfo88mdq.jpg


As soon as I am able to extract a clip from a video, I will post it here. It shows him "in action". :encouragement:

.
 
I've had new bikes and I don't remember the first oil change looking like metalflake paint. heh Maybe I just don't remember it. heh
It looked like beat but weird colored oil, then you shine the led light to it and you could see the silver hue and particulates, especially as it was running out of the bike. Not the usual BLACK/Dark brown.
I've done a few new engine oil changes, it was weird that Harley Davidson recommends 1000 mile oil change, the Tux was 500 miles. Whatever, did it to the manufactures specs. Runs stronger now. I'm also going lighter on the oil grade since we are apparently back in March, snowing right now... And I rode in.

It will hold over till they run a full synthetic in the 1000 mile service. Then it's 5K mile oil changes. I'm letting them do the first 1000 mile check, includes an assortment of things (including valve clearance checks)... Then I will take over all the maintenance.

This motor will be a breeze for valve clearance checks and adjustments, 15K mile intervals and lock nut screw adjustment.
 
Last edited:
It looked like beat but weird colored oil, then you shine the led light to it and you could see the silver hue and particulates, especially as it was running out of the bike. Not the usual BLACK/Dark brown.
I've done a few new engine oil changes, it was weird that Harley Davidson recommends 1000 mile oil change, the Tux was 500 miles. Whatever, did it to the manufactures specs. Runs stronger now. I'm also going lighter on the oil grade since we are apparently back in March, snowing right now... And I rode in.

It will hold over till they run a full synthetic in the 1000 mile service. Then it's 5K mile oil changes. I'm letting them do the first 1000 mile check, includes an assortment of things (including valve clearance checks)... Then I will take over all the maintenance.



This motor will be a breeze for valve clearance checks and adjustments, 15K mile intervals and lock nut screw adjustment.

Same with my Bandit, screw adjusters, so the difficult part of doing a valve adjustment is removing and installing the valve cover. LOL 20k mile interval. The one thing I particularly love about my Bandit is there is NOTHING on two wheels that beats it for ease of maintenance. When I bought it, it was a decent bike that had a lot of appeal to me. That has changed over the 13 years I have had it and it has moved into my category of dream bike.
 
Wow! I would be damn uncomfortable seeing my oil look like silver glitter even with a new bike.
It usually does. That's why they want you to go back to the dealer for the first change. Most of the wear occurs in the first hour as the parts get acquainted. Most of it is cylinder bore as the rings seat. When I was racing we would change the oil on a fresh build after 20 minutes of warmup, and cut the filter apart to look for chunks. It was always shiny metalflake.
 
Same with my Bandit, screw adjusters, so the difficult part of doing a valve adjustment is removing and installing the valve cover. LOL 20k mile interval. The one thing I particularly love about my Bandit is there is NOTHING on two wheels that beats it for ease of maintenance. When I bought it, it was a decent bike that had a lot of appeal to me. That has changed over the 13 years I have had it and it has moved into my category of dream bike.
With new 2016 Bandits at 7k or less it is very tempting...
 
Same with my Bandit, screw adjusters, so the difficult part of doing a valve adjustment is removing and installing the valve cover. LOL 20k mile interval. The one thing I particularly love about my Bandit is there is NOTHING on two wheels that beats it for ease of maintenance. When I bought it, it was a decent bike that had a lot of appeal to me. That has changed over the 13 years I have had it and it has moved into my category of dream bike.
Umm I did my B-12's every 10-15K miles or so (annually over the winter) and they were always out of whack, same with my 16V GS750. The B-12 service interval is 7500 miles FYI. However My bike was pushing the 90K miles with the 10-15K mile intervals I did. Phenomenal bike!
My Tu250X is also 7500 mile intervals same lock nut adjustment. They were a bit tight when I did the 1000 mile maintenance on the TUX.
The Connie is shim over bucket. Had the valves adjusted when I bought it with 14K miles on it... Had the Valves checked at 30K miles and it was just that, no adjustment required. Next is due in 5K miles at 45K miles... Likely will have one more check and then never do it again... very common on this bike to only need one adjustment it's whole life.
We will see how the Harley-Davidson goes, but with lock nut adjustment, I bet it will need an "adjustment" every 15K miles per the manufacturer's recommended maintenance cycle.
 
Last edited:
Not today but I changed out a gear position sensor on my friend's Hayabusa Turbo on Tuesday morning... his lock-up clutch had to come out, among other things...

18403295_10155286381249921_2647937782692589130_n.jpg


18424273_10155286381239921_6912769915145611651_n.jpg


18342334_10155286381134921_9203802586971163090_n.jpg


18301605_10155286381189921_4011198379230707382_n.jpg


18301745_10155286381244921_557891376125672594_n.jpg


Turbine playing peek-a-boo in the dump pipe.
18342384_10155286381184921_7552311381708054251_n.jpg


The reason for the job was lack of boost... his turbo controller (w/electronic waste-gate) references the signal from the gear position sensor to let it know what gear the bike is in. Lower gears get less boost for safety... the higher the gear, the more boost is allowed. Without the sensor reference, the bike was stuck in the 1st gear map so he was limited to about 300hp in every gear. First world problems. :dejection:
 
Charmayne and I installed new intake boots and orings on her bike yesterday and I put the carbs back on this morning. Although 550 carbs are probably the least fun, I got them into place after only about 45 minutes of fighting. However, the fun came after I re-synchronized them when I realized the idle wasn't coming down no matter what I did with the idle adjustment screw. I figured I might have tightened the two nuts on the cable at the carbs too tight and started to adjust the cable at the handlebars when the bike died and wouldn't restart. After much frustration, I finally had the bright idea to loosen the throttle cable at the carbs and got the bike to run again.

I sure wish I could go back in time and try to understand why Suzuki had to design the carb area the way they did because it's just incomprehensible to me.
 
Gee whiz, Dave. Only 300hp?
What will it be after the sensors get sorted?
Will you get to ride it?
Do you want to ride?

It peaks at 560rwhp...

I let the owner do the test ride to make sure all was well. I'd be excited to sample the power but that 330 rear tire scares me to death. :ambivalence:
 
Got my 76' DT400 assembled...went from parts in a van.....

to an assembled piece of history


Nice to have both the DT and the GS at home. Now just gotta register the DT and get on the trails. Soo excited for this season.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top