Vemco drafting machine
Vemco drafting machine
Your images aren't working for me, so I found this:
Vemco drafting machine
Your images aren't working for me, so I found this:
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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
B
Boriqua
Guest
Does working up the energy and desire to do a valve adjustment qualify as wrenching today? I mean .. thinking about having to go out and do it has been laborious! 
Your images aren't working for me, so I found this:
I had (or maybe still have) one similar to this. But mine had (has) an arm with and elbow instead of the beam. I eventually replaced it with a sliding parallel drafting bar and triangles that I have in my office and still use from time to time. I should look and see if I still have the drafting machine. It might be worth something to someone.
Dogma
Forum Sage
I got a request to see the sheet metal parts I laid out using the drafting machine.
The white and brown bent aluminum pieces are what I was working on. The aluminum is from a roll you would get at a lumber yard to bend and wrap around the exterior of doors, windows, fascia boards, etc. It's pretty close to half a mm thick, and for small parts like this I can easily work it with hand tools and a jig I 3D printed.
What is it? It's a heater and fan assembly for an enclosure I'm working on for the 3D Printer. The bent pieces are mounting brackets and a fan shroud.
Here's one of the early attempts at one of the simpler parts. You can see the pen marks from the layout and a little of the trouble I had getting hte bends aligned well in the tools. It was really difficult to assemble this design, so I flipped one of the bends the other way. Visible above.
The design work was done in SolidWorks, since I have access to that through work. Onshape could do this too, and maybe Fusion360. Anyhow, CAD tools have special features that make it easy to add a lot of complexity to a part, and I maybe got carried away. It's hard to see in the pics, but the fan shroud is made of two pieces with a lot of bends. That's why I need to print a jig. I got a little excited about that too, and didn't realize that the fully bent part would wrap around the jig. I had to unbend it a little to free it.
The white and brown bent aluminum pieces are what I was working on. The aluminum is from a roll you would get at a lumber yard to bend and wrap around the exterior of doors, windows, fascia boards, etc. It's pretty close to half a mm thick, and for small parts like this I can easily work it with hand tools and a jig I 3D printed.
What is it? It's a heater and fan assembly for an enclosure I'm working on for the 3D Printer. The bent pieces are mounting brackets and a fan shroud.
Here's one of the early attempts at one of the simpler parts. You can see the pen marks from the layout and a little of the trouble I had getting hte bends aligned well in the tools. It was really difficult to assemble this design, so I flipped one of the bends the other way. Visible above.
The design work was done in SolidWorks, since I have access to that through work. Onshape could do this too, and maybe Fusion360. Anyhow, CAD tools have special features that make it easy to add a lot of complexity to a part, and I maybe got carried away. It's hard to see in the pics, but the fan shroud is made of two pieces with a lot of bends. That's why I need to print a jig. I got a little excited about that too, and didn't realize that the fully bent part would wrap around the jig. I had to unbend it a little to free it.
Spent a couple of hours filing and grinding the weld blobs from the inside of the silencer, so that it's nice tight sliding fit onto the Delko collector, and there's a good inch of overlap to seal with.. I did the first few by hand, but thought sod this, there must be an easier way.
Dug out the Cheap 'n Cheerful air tool kit that I'd bought at the market yonks back and discovered an air die grinder that is, surprisingly, not as crap as I thought. The job went easily after that, but by 'eck it's a greedy sod for air demand. The compressor was running constantly for at least half an hour.
I'd venture to suggest the compressor is well run-in by now.
I cut the Hardly internals in half, so that there's still plenty of wadding and perforations in place, but ran a 10mm drill through the baffle, just because I could.
Fitted the silencer, after having to drill and tap the Harley bracket to M10, from its funny UNC thread (I recall when those were perfectly normal, but haven't even got any UNF or UNC nuts and bolts in stock, nor had for years).
The securing collar is temporary for now - a proper SS exhaust clamp is on its way, and the support strut at the rear can be re-done with something that looks a bit less hokey.
The AFR bung is in the right position, too. Which is nice.
Discovered that some toerag has nicked my Coppaslip.
All in all though, it works.
I'll start it tomorrow and see what it sounds like with half the guts it came from Hardly with.
Dug out the Cheap 'n Cheerful air tool kit that I'd bought at the market yonks back and discovered an air die grinder that is, surprisingly, not as crap as I thought. The job went easily after that, but by 'eck it's a greedy sod for air demand. The compressor was running constantly for at least half an hour.
I'd venture to suggest the compressor is well run-in by now.
I cut the Hardly internals in half, so that there's still plenty of wadding and perforations in place, but ran a 10mm drill through the baffle, just because I could.
Fitted the silencer, after having to drill and tap the Harley bracket to M10, from its funny UNC thread (I recall when those were perfectly normal, but haven't even got any UNF or UNC nuts and bolts in stock, nor had for years).
The securing collar is temporary for now - a proper SS exhaust clamp is on its way, and the support strut at the rear can be re-done with something that looks a bit less hokey.
The AFR bung is in the right position, too. Which is nice.
Discovered that some toerag has nicked my Coppaslip.
All in all though, it works.
I'll start it tomorrow and see what it sounds like with half the guts it came from Hardly with.
Dogma
Forum Sage
One of those sliding bar jobs was in the package with my drafting machine. Whoever was selling it or packing it didn't understand what they were dealing with. I should figure out if it's complete enough for someone to use and put it back on eBay. I saw some of the elbow type drafting machines on eBay, for not a lot of money. Something like 80-180 USD. Depending on condition, of course. Cheap-looking ones can be had new. If I was in the market, I'd be looking for a good old one. The nice thing about those is, they're easy to set up and take down for occasional use, and they don't have to take up a lot of room when not in use.
G
Guest
Guest
Does working up the energy and desire to do a valve adjustment qualify as wrenching today? I mean .. thinking about having to go out and do it has been laborious!
For me, working up the energy is usually the hardest step. After starting, the rest is down hill.
I checked and reset the fuel level in my carbs yesterday. The small tubing tapered and screwed into the threads didn't hold for me, but clamping a section of 3/8 ID tubing to the outside of the bowl drain worked. I heated it up and flared it out for a nice tight fit.
They were all a little low so minor tweak to the floats brought the levels back up to the lock washers on the bowl, which is about in the middle of the shop manual spec. No. 2 carb has an ugly repair from the PO. but is holding solid.
I figured out a neat way to get the choke cable out and back into the 90 degree bent tube. It always binds up in there somehow and that proves to be a frustrating step in the job. Anyway, I used a straw from a spray can of brake cleaner to push the cable end out, while tugging on the cable. Also, for re-inserting the cable it helped to poke the straw in to where it touched the cable end putting a little pressure on it with a push/ pull motion and this kept the cable end from binding up in the 90, and it slid right through.
Adjusting the float levels didn't smooth out the idle as I'd hoped, so today i'll check the current at the coils and possibly install a relay I found in a drawer here.
They were all a little low so minor tweak to the floats brought the levels back up to the lock washers on the bowl, which is about in the middle of the shop manual spec. No. 2 carb has an ugly repair from the PO. but is holding solid.
I figured out a neat way to get the choke cable out and back into the 90 degree bent tube. It always binds up in there somehow and that proves to be a frustrating step in the job. Anyway, I used a straw from a spray can of brake cleaner to push the cable end out, while tugging on the cable. Also, for re-inserting the cable it helped to poke the straw in to where it touched the cable end putting a little pressure on it with a push/ pull motion and this kept the cable end from binding up in the 90, and it slid right through.
Adjusting the float levels didn't smooth out the idle as I'd hoped, so today i'll check the current at the coils and possibly install a relay I found in a drawer here.
G
Guest
Guest
Worked on my throttle issues, finally got my random reving problem fixed thanks to some longtime forum masters!! Thanks to them it's almost ready to hit the road!
Track bike redo
Track bike redo
Ok, 2 months 'til next track day:
Working on fiberglass tailpiece/seat.
Built a support structure that will support my weight and is securely bolted to the frame.
Added some to the shell so it covers the gap mo-betta. This is a 93 GSXR Yoshi design tailpiece adapted to a '90 GSX750F Katana.
Track bike redo
Ok, 2 months 'til next track day:
Working on fiberglass tailpiece/seat.
Built a support structure that will support my weight and is securely bolted to the frame.
Added some to the shell so it covers the gap mo-betta. This is a 93 GSXR Yoshi design tailpiece adapted to a '90 GSX750F Katana.
Bill, I'm enjoying watching the evolution of this this bike. Looks good.
Total sleeper Kat! Where's the first trackday gonna be?
The outfit I ride with Sportbike Track Time (schedule), has already begun it's season in Alabama. 1st day in Michigan will be 4/20/19. Not sure when I'll sign up, depends on forecast.
Started the rebuilt 850 in earnest to see what the exhaust sounded like...
The phone tends to pick up the treble more than anything and doesn't really give much of an idea what it sounds like. It's a fair bit bassier than this, without being loud.
The alarming rattles are things bouncing around on the worktop, nothing terminal in the engine.
The phone tends to pick up the treble more than anything and doesn't really give much of an idea what it sounds like. It's a fair bit bassier than this, without being loud.
The alarming rattles are things bouncing around on the worktop, nothing terminal in the engine.
Does it sound like a Harley?
Oddly, it sounds a little more Harley-esque than the Motad did. Obviously not because there's a big twin thumping along, but some of the design aims of the Harley muffler team are still there, even without the full packing inside. There's an interesting growly bark that might show itself more when under load and higher rpm.
Fitting the wiring to the Pantera fairing.
I tried to work with the original wiring within, but just got pee'd off with it and howked it out and threw it on the floor in disgust.
A simple thing like a headlight, two sidelights and two indicators involved some PO clown using six Scotchloks. There's no excuse for such shoddy wiring practice.
I joined new lengths on and simply soldered and heatshrunk the joints (wrapped joints, of course) so there will be no worries about the lights staying on in the dark.
I tried to work with the original wiring within, but just got pee'd off with it and howked it out and threw it on the floor in disgust.
A simple thing like a headlight, two sidelights and two indicators involved some PO clown using six Scotchloks. There's no excuse for such shoddy wiring practice.
I joined new lengths on and simply soldered and heatshrunk the joints (wrapped joints, of course) so there will be no worries about the lights staying on in the dark.
While re-installing my exhaust, I noticed a dent in the left muffler apparently caused by the center stand. Wondering why, closer inspection revealed a spot for a missing cushion to prevent the stand from slamming into the muffler. After rifling through the magical box of miscellaneous GS parts (everybody's got one or a dozen of those, right?), I found something I thought I could use, an extra seat pan rubber cushion. I cut it in half and installed it with a screw (ala drywall anchor) so it would split out the nub and hold it secure in the hole. I'm not worried about it coming out. The stand is tight against it while it's up.
G
Guest
Guest
Ah..... it's the little things sometimes, isn't it? That "dent" in the muffler may have been put there by the factory, so that the center stand could come up just a little bit higher.
Wasn’t sure about the dent in the muffler being from the factory or not. Anybody know for sure. Not that it matters. Just curious is all.
