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what did you wrench on today??

Dropped the running-in oil, replaced with a semi-synth 10w40, fitted new centrestand (using the washers-inne-spring trick), replaced a dodgy spark plug, re-tightened head, valve cover and exhaust bolts, most of which took a touch more. Just as well I didn't leave it longer.
Tomorrow, hoik a spare starter motor from another lump, test it on the bench and if good, fit it to the brute. I'm impressed how cheaply good used starters can be bought in the US, up to now shipping was an obstacle, but not any more. Think I'll acquire another spare just in case.
 
Boy, that looks clean inside! Please tell me about your "oil based pen".

OK. Here: At Michael's, no less. Or Amazon, of course. No matter how oil-free I got the timing chain (acetone, alcohol) the paint didn't stick very well -- so I kept my mitts away from the marked link. It's possible, obviously, to just use the diagrams and double-check with the 16-pitch count between cam gear marks, but I really prefer that as a backup; a nice, thin white mark as a reference gives me confidence. Believe it or not, the toughest part for me was the plastic heat shield just behind the radiator. That fought me every step of the way. Like most operations of this type, my second and subsequent valve checks should take about a third as much time.

I really lucked out on needed shims. Although I wound up altering 7 of the 8 clearances, I had to buy just one 5-pack of 1.65's, for about $5.25 shipped. The intakes used the discards from the exhausts, and the results were as close to perfect as you'd ever get with a shim system. So I'm happy!
 
With temps in NJ hitting 90? today, I figured it would be a good time to check my vintage (1986) cooling system for the house. Like my old GS, it's leaky....
with that sorted, I gave the cycle its yearly washing / degreasing / delousing.....
 
... and today, the old starter from the other lump worked fine, so fitted it and good to go. Need to get a couple of rebuild kits for the others. With occasional brushplate replacement (like, about once every half century or so) these old Mitsuba starters go on forever.
 
OK. Here: At Michael's, no less. Or Amazon, of course. No matter how oil-free I got the timing chain (acetone, alcohol) the paint didn't stick very well -- so I kept my mitts away from the marked link. It's possible, obviously, to just use the diagrams and double-check with the 16-pitch count between cam gear marks, but I really prefer that as a backup; a nice, thin white mark as a reference gives me confidence. Believe it or not, the toughest part for me was the plastic heat shield just behind the radiator. That fought me every step of the way. Like most operations of this type, my second and subsequent valve checks should take about a third as much time.

I really lucked out on needed shims. Although I wound up altering 7 of the 8 clearances, I had to buy just one 5-pack of 1.65's, for about $5.25 shipped. The intakes used the discards from the exhausts, and the results were as close to perfect as you'd ever get with a shim system. So I'm happy!

Thanks! I now remember a grease pencil that I used to have. Haven't thought of it in years. Next time I get near Micheal's, I'm stopping to get one.
 
Blew 5 freeze plugs in W/C 750... Result water in oil.
So used to aircooled bikes didn't think to check if radiator had a coolant mix or not.
Did not. Froze over winter, and let go in the first 7 minutes of riding it.
Waiting for parts. Will see what the outcome is.
 
Even with my bum leg I made it over to the garage this afternoon to get out of the house. All four carbs are now essentially put back together but I still need to reconnect them and do a bench sync. I'll have to wait to put them back on the bike until I'm allowed to put weight on the leg again.
 
Got new shoes for my Dart today! :cool:

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Just boring stuff

Did a valve check/adjustment, New Air filter, Check the plugs, Clean and reinstall crankcase breather filter, oil tach, speedo, clutch and throttle cables. Adjust throttle and clutch play and top up with a little fresh oil. Put my new rear tire on a few weeks ago so I am good now at least for the summer.

I must say ... my bike is currently running SWEET!! Smooth like glass.
 
My track bike was not reving as high as last year, power fading off above 8000rpm. So I needed to look at the plugs, evaluate what to do.
Plugs were in the ideal zone but on the rich end of it.
Two things I changed since last summer, valve job and changed the ignition box.
Used to use the OEM GSX750 Katana ignition box, but changed that out for a GSX1100 Katana ig box. I think that was the wrong move so I just put the 750 box back in there, it must have a more aggressive advance curve, I know it has a 500 RPM higher redline.
Ordered a K&N airfilter, not sure how much that will help the top end but with carbs on the rich side it won't hurt.
 
Finally got around to tackling an annoying oil filter leak on the pre-Divvy XJ900.
Turned out to be the large O-ring at the back of the cooler take-off block, which had never been off since it left the factory. As a result, the O-ring was rock-hard and weeping. Took the opportunity to suss out why the XJ600S bits I bought to convert it to a spin-on filter wouldn't fit nicely, and it turned out just need a slight bit of butchery with a slicer, reducing the big internal hollow bolt head by about 3mm, to allow the converter plate to sit on it.
All finished and holding oil nicely...

filter fitted 01.jpg
 
On the third oil change/filter & 6th flushing of radiator.
Bike froze over winter in unheated garage, as water wetter/water was all that was in the radiator,. apparently
My inexperience with w/c bikes caused this.
Still some white gobules in the radiator.
Engine oil looks nearly clear.
Maybe one more cycle of fluids and can get back to feeling confident the bike might survive.
04 GSXR 750 track only bike.
 
On the third oil change/filter & 6th flushing of radiator.
Bike froze over winter in unheated garage, as water wetter/water was all that was in the radiator,. apparently
My inexperience with w/c bikes caused this.
Still some white gobules in the radiator.
Engine oil looks nearly clear.
Maybe one more cycle of fluids and can get back to feeling confident the bike might survive.
04 GSXR 750 track only bike.
Reminds me of a story about traveling in the ole USSR. Because there was no antifreeze available, owners had to drain the water every night, and fill it again in the morning.
I read those track regulations about no antifreeze. Never thought about winter freezing the water. My bike has the old SACS oil cooled engine.
 
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Well actually, I did own 2 watercooled bikes briefly. A 93 Honda CBR 600 & a Suzuki TL 1000S.
Both were street bikes and stored in the same garage, but had antifreeze in them.

I never heard of "freeze plugs" until this incident. 4 outta 5 blew, + plus the thermostat housing cracked,
spewing water/oil mixture on the underside of the gas tank.

Forgot about having a 94 Suzuki RF 900 for a bit too.
Bike had terrible parts-bin suspension, heck my ole Kat handles better.
 
On to the 8th flush of radiator (distilled/vinegar) and another oil/filter change (4th).
Now I'm leaning towards a semi synthectic, as the oil change frequency doesn't justify spending $50-80 plus for full synthectic,
if I change in few hundred miles. I have a quart of Castrol Actevo semi syn 10w-40, figured I'd use this, and then buck up for
a full syn later.
 
Happy Birthday to me, from my wife.
New sissy bar bag to replace the tired and broken soft cooler I'd been using, and New TSCC emblems. Woohoo!
No wrenches required:D
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