Best to just continue this in the other thread you started for it. You have people trying to help with your same issue in 2 different treads.
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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
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Guest
Guest
I agree. I just were posting about my wrenching.
What Im mostly pleased with it me managing to replace the studs, washers, cover and acorn nuts for the oil filter:
Luckily only the outter part (the very end) of the studs were damaged. So I believe the inside of the engine is fine. I have no idea how they got so damaged, but I believe my issues with reattaching it was caused by the useless studs and acorn nuts.
Now its all cured. Changing the cover were probaly not necessary, but look how nice and shiny it is! And it lacks that annoying circle I didnt know where to place.
Rijko
Forum Sage
I also got all the studs in, and got the new oil filter cover onHope it doesn't leak now. I can't test because I need an oil drain washer.
Usually the old one can be reused, oldskool like.
If it is not terribly damaged, sand both sides flat by sliding it
on a piece of sanding paper.
Next, hang the washer on a piece of metal wire and heat it until it glows red.
Drop it in water and clean it.
Good to go.
G
Guest
Guest
I doubt the washers were damaged, but I lost one last filter change, so I got 6 so I would have some for a while.
The old cover honestly looked fine, functionally wise. I cant see any obvious damage. But it wasn't shiny.
What is the purpose of heating the washer and dropping it in water?
G
Guest
Guest
I believe the washers are steel or aluminium? They are silver, not copper colored.
G
Guest
Guest
Yes. So if I lose one each oil change, Ill be good until the winter. 3000km oil changes. 4x 3000 is 12 000, about what Im planning to ride before the snow comes.
Hopefully Ill lose less, but I dont want to waste more prime season because of waiting. Tyre has taken far too long to replace.
Next season Ill make sure I have brand new tyres on before winter storage, and a second rear ready for the first change (and when I change it Ill order a new set).
I hope I can catch up with all the neglected work and have a stable touring machine next year that just works and gives me no hassle.
I believe this refers to the drain plug washer.
Noreg, Rijko
i believe you guys are talking about 2 different types of washers. I believe Noreg has the type of single-use metal crush washer shown in my pic, and not a copper washer that some reuse after a heat/cool annealing process that should make them reusable. YMMV. Thanks for the reminder that I had this one on my workbench waiting for me to attempt removal of the crush washer. It’s stuck fast to the oil drain bolt. I now have some penetrating oil on it to try to free it. This type of washer crushes when you torque it down(up) on the underside of the oil pan. It is not reusable. This is the only one that’s ever given me a problem removing.
i believe you guys are talking about 2 different types of washers. I believe Noreg has the type of single-use metal crush washer shown in my pic, and not a copper washer that some reuse after a heat/cool annealing process that should make them reusable. YMMV. Thanks for the reminder that I had this one on my workbench waiting for me to attempt removal of the crush washer. It’s stuck fast to the oil drain bolt. I now have some penetrating oil on it to try to free it. This type of washer crushes when you torque it down(up) on the underside of the oil pan. It is not reusable. This is the only one that’s ever given me a problem removing.
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Guest
Guest
Noreg, Rijko
i believe you guys are talking about 2 different types of washers. I believe Noreg has the type of single-use metal crush washer shown in my pic, and not a copper washer that some reuse after a heat/cool annealing process that should make them reusable. YMMV. Thanks for the reminder that I had this one on my workbench waiting for me to attempt removal of the crush washer. It’s stuck fast to the oil drain bolt. I now have some penetrating oil on it to try to free it. This type of washer crushes when you torque it down(up) on the underside of the oil pan. It is not reusable. This is the only one that’s ever given me a problem removing.
I had that kind. I had to cut it off it was impossible to get more than 1/4th off the plug.
The shop gave me a new one for free. So I figure I will ask for one every time I buy new oil. And even if they charge me 20 cent for one I might as well.
I reused it the last time. Might explain the leak...
Yes. That would explain the leak. They are single-use.
Got the Suzuki put back together today after carb dip and clean. Lots of little piddling around while they were being cleaned. Replaced the left side handlebar grip and throttle tube and grip with one from Yamaha. Supposed to be an improvement with less wrist twisting to get to WOT.
Replaced a damaged choke cable that doesn't work right. Seems like it is too long.
Initial start up showed the bench synch was pretty good, then trying to adjust the air screws for best idle and discovered #2 spark plug wasn't firing. Changed that out and then carried out the balancing with the carb tune. Buttoned everything back up and will give it a test run tomorrow. Kind of excited to ride it again as it has been down way too long.
Replaced a damaged choke cable that doesn't work right. Seems like it is too long.
Initial start up showed the bench synch was pretty good, then trying to adjust the air screws for best idle and discovered #2 spark plug wasn't firing. Changed that out and then carried out the balancing with the carb tune. Buttoned everything back up and will give it a test run tomorrow. Kind of excited to ride it again as it has been down way too long.
Had a slow air leak in the front wheel, closely inspected the tire and no sign of puncture.
Took the wheel off and discovered the air valve was torn, came off too EZ.
Replaced that and expect the air leak will be gone.
Took the wheel off and discovered the air valve was torn, came off too EZ.
Replaced that and expect the air leak will be gone.
G
Guest
Guest
Put wheel back on, new rotor on the rear, new brake pads, new oil filter, new oil, new mirrors, fixed right switch gear. Removed some rust from the end of the axle too.
After the K&N cone filter and MGB stub stack went on it was obvious that things were different, needing some adjustment.
So today; swapped in a red spring to the SU and dialed in the tickover. Weather foul, so a road test can wait.
It immediately settled down to a better idle than before though, so probably a good sign.
Also discovered the cam cover bolts were all slack-ish, so gave them a tweak.
No proper obvious oil leaks from the cover, but the last couple of journeys, there was a whiff of hot oil coming up from somewhere - probably that.
So today; swapped in a red spring to the SU and dialed in the tickover. Weather foul, so a road test can wait.
It immediately settled down to a better idle than before though, so probably a good sign.
Also discovered the cam cover bolts were all slack-ish, so gave them a tweak.
No proper obvious oil leaks from the cover, but the last couple of journeys, there was a whiff of hot oil coming up from somewhere - probably that.
In all my years of riding, this was a first. Luckily it didn't make a huge mess, and only minimal acid came out. Good ad for sealed batteries I guess.
Other then that I spent some time going thru random clips and straps so my saddlebags and makeshift camera bag attachments all use the same clips.
I stuck a rubber plug in the hole.
http://
Missing by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
Other then that I spent some time going thru random clips and straps so my saddlebags and makeshift camera bag attachments all use the same clips.
I stuck a rubber plug in the hole.
http://
Missing by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
G
Guest
Guest
Yesterday I topped up the oil for the secondary drive. And changed the screws with new ikea screws. There was a washer for one of them, I assumed that goes in the whole? I used the same torque as the oil filter cover, but a bit confused if that is correct. I want to change the stator cover screws too, as you see they are a mix of rusty screws and some strange ikea screws.
I filled the oil in too quickly and had to wait for an eternity for it to drip out of the level hole. Being impatient there was a bad choice. Should I grease the spline for the gear shifter? It had some of that strange silver grease...
Today I made an elegant modification to my bicycle pump so I could pump my tyres. Apparently they were a bit low (I measured them AFTER riding).
I cut off the handle that locks the thing to the valve, so it would fit inside my rear tyre rims. I should buy a compressor and and angled valve or something. But the bike pump works well, it seems to struggle a bit over 40 psi.
I filled the oil in too quickly and had to wait for an eternity for it to drip out of the level hole. Being impatient there was a bad choice. Should I grease the spline for the gear shifter? It had some of that strange silver grease...
Today I made an elegant modification to my bicycle pump so I could pump my tyres. Apparently they were a bit low (I measured them AFTER riding).
I cut off the handle that locks the thing to the valve, so it would fit inside my rear tyre rims. I should buy a compressor and and angled valve or something. But the bike pump works well, it seems to struggle a bit over 40 psi.
Today, stripped the rear GS1000 special-rig sidecar wheel that will wear the Darkside tyre.
On close examination of the drive splines it was obvious they were half worn - this came as a surprise, as it's a black flange and my other black flanges are pristine. Oh well, time to get a replacement, they're cheap enough used.
I suspect the extra loads put on the hub by it being on a sidecar rig for who know how many miles, have taken their toll, and it's possible the PO only ever greased it at tyre-change intervals (as normal) but the intervals running a car radial would have been much longer, so essentially it's down to lack of lube and maintenance.
My plan to re-use the original tyre tube valve hole to fit a tubeless valve was thwarted, as it's an 11mm hole there, so I need a larger valve stem body - easily got, but it adds to the annoyance factor.
The wheel bearings feel absolutely lovely, which makes me suspect they were replaced relatively recently, as I doubt very much they're the originals, especially not with the aforementioned sidecar loads on them.
On close examination of the drive splines it was obvious they were half worn - this came as a surprise, as it's a black flange and my other black flanges are pristine. Oh well, time to get a replacement, they're cheap enough used.
I suspect the extra loads put on the hub by it being on a sidecar rig for who know how many miles, have taken their toll, and it's possible the PO only ever greased it at tyre-change intervals (as normal) but the intervals running a car radial would have been much longer, so essentially it's down to lack of lube and maintenance.
My plan to re-use the original tyre tube valve hole to fit a tubeless valve was thwarted, as it's an 11mm hole there, so I need a larger valve stem body - easily got, but it adds to the annoyance factor.
The wheel bearings feel absolutely lovely, which makes me suspect they were replaced relatively recently, as I doubt very much they're the originals, especially not with the aforementioned sidecar loads on them.
