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what did you wrench on today??

Threw another 12 or so HP into the 1250 Bandit today. I bought it with a pipe on it but no tuner. So I took the pipe off last year and put the stock exhaust back on. Today I did the o2 delete, Pair delete and added a tuner and pipe back on. Quite a shocking difference actually. It;s the torque of the town as they say.
 
Test fit the cheapo $30 Dyna S knockoff I bought on Ebay, wired it up to check for spark. The magnetic rotor required quite a bit of sanding of the ID before it would slide onto the crank rotor shaft, ditto the slots that the factory advance weights slide in. But it all seems to be moving smoothly and I do have spark on all four cylinders again. This was all precipitated by the OE igniter giving up the ghost on cyls 2/3 (burned up transistor presumably). I tried to solder on a known good transistor from another spare semi-failed igniter but I suspect I may have overheated it while soldering. FleaBay to the rescue, as well as @bwringer donating a pair of used OE '82 coils to the ressurection cause. Once I complete more permanent/tidy wiring maybe I'll finally get this thing back out of the garage for some test riding.
 
I was surprised today. I have just installed a Dyna Ds3-2 in my 80/1100L, no spark on 1/4 changed the coil and checking for spark she tried to start on cylinders. 1/2. I am excited to have the old girl running proper again.

V
 
Had to put a new battery in the Speed 400.
Yup...
One month out of warranty, and the cheap Exide battery lost a cell.
 
Sorry Bob, never know what to expect with batt.'s. What I've seen over the yrs., the brand nor cost of batteries means much... I just replaced the batt. in my ZRX 1100, a couple of wks. ago, and the piece of tape I'd put on it said 8/17/18 and $43.00. It is a CHROMEBATTERY off ebay. Found the exact same battery still on ebay but now $45.00, so of course ordered another hoping for same results. Also noticed a while back the Interstate batt. in my Tacoma, their sticker says 5/20 and the piece of tape I put on says Blem, $45.00... No doubt been luckier than you. Hope you get luckier this time.
 
Oops, broke 3rd gear at 53,510 miles.
My favorite bike, even so I considered junking it for about 5 seconds.
Just bought an engine with 19,265 miles and good compression.
Hope this engine lasts 19 years like the original did, I'll be 91 years old by then.
bmLaZFB.jpeg
 
Riding last weekend and came around a corner onto fresh road works that were not sign-posted! Fresh bitumen and bluemetal (small stones) flicked up onto hot pipes not a good combination when you are miles from home. So today I am starting to remove the melted bitumen from the pipes. Have had to do this before so I have a system that works pretty well, just takes time.
 
Bummer, I wanted to remove and replace the 1100G engine without taking off the head, but it's too tall.
Will have to remove both heads and use a 2nd rate Cometic gasket. No Suzuki head gaskets available. Last time I found a NOS Suzuki gasket on ebay. These bikes are getting old. I may have to try making a copper gasket if the Cometic fails.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
Bummer, I wanted to remove and replace the 1100G engine without taking off the head, but it's too tall.
Will have to remove both heads and use a 2nd rate Cometic gasket. No Suzuki head gaskets available. Last time I found a NOS Suzuki gasket on ebay. These bikes are getting old. I may have to try making a copper gasket if the Cometic fails.
Click to expand...
Pages 3-2 to 3-5 detail how to remove the engine from the frame, and the head and valve cover are still installed. What are you referring to?
 
The Suzuki manual does clearly say: "Gradually lift up the engine" but I'm just not strong enough.
The Clymer manual on page 72 suggests: "If you're performing repair work without assistance, it may be easier to first remove cylinder head and cylinder block."
 
Buffalo Bill said:
The Suzuki manual does clearly say: "Gradually lift up the engine" but I'm just not strong enough.
The Clymer manual on page 72 suggests: "If you're performing repair work without assistance, it may be easier to first remove cylinder head and cylinder block."
Click to expand...
Your previous post mentions wanting to remove the engine complete but it's too tall. Not that it's too heavy. Since that's been clarified, I suggest using a jack under the engine to support it, then slide it off onto a milk crate or similar. Alternate is to lay the bike down on it's side, then lift the frame off the engine. Both of these methods are better than removing the head and cylinder. I mention the cylinder because anytime a head is removed, the cylinder should be as well, or you will likely get a base gasket leak.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
I might have enough clearance if I just remove the valve cover and cams, maybe the sump pan also.
Click to expand...
No need to remove that stuff. Look at the service manual. Do it if you want more wiggle room, but it shouldn't be necessary.

That said, I'd be checking the valve clearances straight away, so removing the valve cover will be needed. And removing the sump will allow you to check the oil pump pickup screen. Never a bad thing.
 
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