What do I lube the splines with? GS1000G

[Guest]

NO. Unless "the finger" tells you otherwise.



Not needed. But if you want, the slightesst dab of any grease or copper paste will do.
Check the inside of the disc and the outside of the wheel it mounts to for damage.
If the disc goes on easily and rotates freely, it's okay.

I want, I realize I can probably just mount the rotor on the wheel directly. I would get some ease of mind putting some ceramic grease between the rotor and wheel though, and its cheap and easy. I don't think it can hurt.

The disc is new, so its nice and smooth. The wheel seems okay too.

I don't understand the "rotates freely", the studs would stop the disc from rotating. I doubt it would be hard to put the disc on the studs though. But since Im getting proper bolts, I dont want it to stick.

 

[Rijko]

I don't understand the "rotates freely", the studs would stop the disc from rotating. I doubt it would be hard to put the disc on the studs though. But since Im getting proper bolts, I dont want it to stick.

You had to wrestle the disc off, so something held on to it.
That could be corrosion between the wheel and disc, the studs, or damage.

Mount the new disc without studs or bolts and it should rotate
easily without force, and also without play.

 

[Grimly]

I've only ever used whatever grease I had to hand - variously that would be Castrol EP, Molyslip, Castrol something else and Fina Moly. Generally any grease I had.
I never left them ungreased on changing tyres. I've never had a spline wear out - in many many miles.
Basically, any grease will get you going better than no grease.
Of course, my bikes had the black splines originally.
In recent years I've bought rear wheels that had silver and gold splines and have seen the wear that others speak of.

 

[Guest]

You had to wrestle the disc off, so something held on to it.
That could be corrosion between the wheel and disc, the studs, or damage.

Mount the new disc without studs or bolts and it should rotate
easily without force, and also without play.

I am slightly scared to remove the studs. Especially before I have new bolts. I assume corrosion (rust) held them together. There were some rust on the back of the disc.

I've only ever used whatever grease I had to hand - variously that would be Castrol EP, Molyslip, Castrol something else and Fina Moly. Generally any grease I had.
I never left them ungreased on changing tyres. I've never had a spline wear out - in many many miles.
Basically, any grease will get you going better than no grease.
Of course, my bikes had the black splines originally.
In recent years I've bought rear wheels that had silver and gold splines and have seen the wear that others speak of.

That makes me less worried. I guess I can throw the local moly grease on, and order the good stuff for the next tyre change.

Do you use the same grease for the axle? Mine had silver paste/grease. I am not sure where to buy that...

 

[Rijko]

I am slightly scared to remove the studs. Especially before I have new bolts.

If you have a problem, NOW is the time to deal with it and be ready
when the new stuff arrives. Have the wheel ready before it does.

Do you use the same grease for the axle? Mine had silver paste/grease. I am not sure where to buy that...

ANY grease is ok for the axle. The axle does not move, the grease on it is simply rust protection.

 

[Grimly]

Do you use the same grease for the axle? Mine had silver paste/grease. I am not sure where to buy that...

I used Never-Seez to lightly coat my axle, but given the cost of getting another tin of that, I've been using Copaslip instead.
Once you've encountered an axle the POs have never lubricated, you become very aware of the hassle caused by a corroded axle and trying to remove it.

 

[Big T]

Did your local Honda dealer tell you Moly 60 is discontinued?
Because, Honda makes a lot of shaft drive bikes, some dating back 45 years

 

[Nessism]

That Moly 60 stuff is discontinued, in the US anyway, but there is supposed to be a replacement. Not sure of the new PN or part name.

 

[Guest]

I asked the local motorcycle dealer. The mechanic said, and I quote: "On the splines? There is usually some grease there, we don't put anything on them..." He was pretty confused about the whole thing it seemed. I am now pretty gratefull I am not using them for the tyre change.

He did give me the ring for the oil bolt for free though. It is round and weird and he says it becomes flat. I asked to get a flat one too just in case. Should I use the round one?

 

[Gorminrider]

That round one sounds to be a crush-washer-sometimes coppery in appearance...they crush to flat but try to stop tightening before then and you'll get more uses.

Similar crush-washers come on spark plugs.

That said, a flat washer can work if everything is really flat and smooth but can lead to over-torquing the bolt and stretching-then stripping the bolt. lastly, if a flat washer leaks, a piece of gasket paper under the washer can do the trick and somewhat indicate torque where it's a thicker variety.

You say the spline grease you saw was "silvery"? that might indicate it was molybdeneum but dark grey is what my Honda stuff is. You should try to get some Honda or Suzuki or Yamaha or kawasaki or BMW stuff- they all made shaft drives at some point. You want the best suitable here.

...I've used Never-seize at various lubrication points too. Mine is a graphite type- grey- graphite is indeed a lubricant and doesn't seem to react between varying metals that I've noticed anyways.

 

[salty_monk]

I use Copper grease or Marine grease on the Axles.... depends what I have easily at hand.

I would put the local moly stuff in & ride... Get the other stuff & change over later.

 

[Guest]

That round one sounds to be a crush-washer-sometimes coppery in appearance...they crush to flat but try to stop tightening before then and you'll get more uses.

Similar crush-washers come on spark plugs.

That said, a flat washer can work if everything is really flat and smooth but can lead to over-torquing the bolt and stretching-then stripping the bolt. lastly, if a flat washer leaks, a piece of gasket paper under the washer can do the trick and somewhat indicate torque where it's a thicker variety.

You say the spline grease you saw was "silvery"? that might indicate it was molybdeneum but dark grey is what my Honda stuff is. You should try to get some Honda or Suzuki or Yamaha or kawasaki or BMW stuff- they all made shaft drives at some point. You want the best suitable here.

...I've used Never-seize at various lubrication points too. Mine is a graphite type- grey- graphite is indeed a lubricant and doesn't seem to react between varying metals that I've noticed anyways.

The spline grease looks black/brownish. The axle had the silver paste/silver grease (I believe thats the name). I got ceramic paste for the axle.

Does it matter what way I put the crush-washer in? I figure I should probably just buy a bunch of them (or ask for one when I get oil at the store).

Its so hard to find the right concentration of moly. The moly fat from the car store is only 9% and I think it has a too soft consistency. I am also worried as I need it before friday.

 

[Nessism]

Found these options by searching the internet.

Honda M77
Enduralast 477 Spline Lube
Loctite LB 8012

 

[Guest]

Found these options by searching the internet.

Honda M77
Enduralast 477 Spline Lube
Loctite LB 8012

Found some nice loctite lb 8012 on amazon. Only 40. Until I saw shipping:

Items: USD 40.25
Shipping & handling: USD 370.00
Total before tax: USD 410.25
Estimated tax to be collected:* USD 0.00
Order total: USD 410.25

 

[Guest]

I found loctite 8012 on ebay. Ordered two 8 oz cans (no idea how much an oz is). For 132 usd.

I will just use the 9% moly grease from the car store for now and replace it when the loctite arrives. People on the Norwegian forums have had success using the 9% noly grease on their BMW splines, so I think it will be okay for a few thousand kilometers.

 

[alke46]

Just curious, would any automotive type heavy duty axle grease work?

 

[Grimly]

Just curious, would any automotive type heavy duty axle grease work?

Yes, but not long term. Iow, axle grease will work if that's all you have, but make sure to get some sort of moly grease in there next time.
I'm utterly gobsmacked when I see the rusty mess that some Goldwing splines have on them - owners who just don't know, care, or useless so-called 'mechanics' who shouldn't be let near a spanner.

 

[Cipher]

Yes, but not long term. Iow, axle grease will work if that's all you have, but make sure to get some sort of moly grease in there next time.
I'm utterly gobsmacked when I see the rusty mess that some Goldwing splines have on them - owners who just don't know, care, or useless so-called 'mechanics' who shouldn't be let near a spanner.

ever used castrol optimoly? When my centre lift stand arrives Im gonna do my splines.

Apparently its not lubrication but reduction in contact points welding and then rusting away thats key

 

[Gorminrider]

I found loctite 8012 on ebay. Ordered two 8 oz cans (no idea how much an oz is). For 132 usd.

I will just use the 9% moly grease from the car store for now and replace it when the loctite arrives. People on the Norwegian forums have had success using the 9% noly grease on their BMW splines, so I think it will be okay for a few thousand kilometers.

Sure that'll work in the interval. I would've sent you some grease if I'd known you were going to be charged 132USD! Yikes.

 

[Guest]

Sure that'll work in the interval. I would've sent you some grease if I'd known you were going to be charged 132USD! Yikes.

I am glad you would help out. And I hope 16 oz is enough for a long long time.