What is normal chain wear?

[Who Dat?]

Motorcycles have chains?! LOL

I haven't adjusted a chain in 25 years, but it's obvious that something very odd is going on.

I was thinking pretty much the same thing, but it's been almost 40 years since I had a bike with a chain to the rear wheel.

However, they have all had a cam chain, but it was adjusted automatically.

 

[bwringer]

That is a non o-ring chain. Are you lubing it every day? With what? IIRC back in the day 5k was a lot for a standard chain.

Yep, there's your trouble.

Unsealed chains are totally inappropriate for street use; they're essentially disposable chains for racing, where that .000001 horsepower you might lose to o-rings is important, and where quick, easy gearing changes are important. EK makes great chains, but that one is only intended to go a few laps on a track or runs up a dragstrip and then get thrown out, not street riding. They really should make this clearer in the literature, catalogs, and websites.

A high quality o-ring or x-ring chain and sprocket set should last a minimum of 20,000 to 30,000 miles, even on a powerful bike ridden hard. You shouldn't need to clean and lube the chain all that often (whatever you spritz on a sealed chain is only really needed to keep it from rusting and maybe knock off any accumulated dirt), and after you install it, you might need one minor adjustment after a few hundred miles. After that, it shouldn't need adjustment again until 20,000 to 30,000 miles have passed and it's just about worn out and time to order another.

 

[sam000lee]

Okay great thanks for the info glad I know why the one lasted such a short time. I'm in Olympia, WA and ordered new chain and sprockets to a shop here which will arrive tomorrow. I'm guessing they ordered an appropriate street use chain... I guess we'll see.

 

[sam000lee]

Front sprocket but is 32mm, right?

 

[sam000lee]

Okay got my new chain and sprockets on. Jt sprockets and pretty sure it's the same chain as the last one... At least it's new and only has to make it ~3500 miles home...

 

[eil]

EK makes a variety of chains, is there a model number on the new one that we can look up?

 

[sam000lee]

The chain that the Suzuki dealer in Olympia ordered for me was in fact another non O-ring chain. I got the same results, worked great for about 2,300 miles and then needed adjustment every 200 miles or would be extremely loose. Just got back to Boston and am replacing it again with an O ring or X ring one so hopefully I won't have to deal with this for several years now. I think I'm going with this one which costs about as much as the other two combined but I'm sure will outlast them.

https://www.z1enterprises.com/630-chain-rk-96-link-xw-ring.html

Thanks all for the input.

 

[JJ]

The chain that the Suzuki dealer in Olympia ordered for me was in fact another non O-ring chain. I got the same results, worked great for about 2,300 miles and then needed adjustment every 200 miles or would be extremely loose. Just got back to Boston and am replacing it again with an O ring or X ring one so hopefully I won't have to deal with this for several years now. I think I'm going with this one which costs about as much as the other two combined but I'm sure will outlast them.

https://www.z1enterprises.com/630-chain-rk-96-link-xw-ring.html

Thanks all for the input.

I'm glad that you made it back in good shape. That chain should easily last you exponentially longer than the cheap ones you were using, provided that it is lubed and adjusted correctly. Inexpensive chains like the ones you burned through on your trip is false economy.

 

[Who Dat?]

One other thing to consider is ... how tight is your chain after you adjust it?

A chain that is too tight will wear out a LOT faster than one that is a bit loose.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

The chain that the Suzuki dealer in Olympia ordered for me was in fact another non O-ring chain. I got the same results, worked great for about 2,300 miles and then needed adjustment every 200 miles or would be extremely loose. Just got back to Boston and am replacing it again with an O ring or X ring one so hopefully I won't have to deal with this for several years now. I think I'm going with this one which costs about as much as the other two combined but I'm sure will outlast them.

https://www.z1enterprises.com/630-chain-rk-96-link-xw-ring.html

Thanks all for the input.

The new chain looks good would be even better if you use an auto oiler really they are good I have used the Scott oiler for many years and they extend the chain life no end
https://www.scottoiler.com/

 

[sam000lee]

One other thing to consider is ... how tight is your chain after you adjust it?

A chain that is too tight will wear out a LOT faster than one that is a bit loose.

Already been over this but I had been adjusting it overly loose.



I was under the impression that O-ring chains do not really need `lubrication' since the grease is backed inside the chain, hence the purpose of the O-ring's.

 

[Guest]

The purpose of the o-rings is to keep the lubrication in the pivots, where it belongs. The only attention the chain should really need is to clean the crud off it so it doesn't get forced into the o-rings, which might let the lube out. The chain lube should flush the crud away and maybe ease some of the friction where the o-rings rub on the side plates.

 

[sam000lee]

So I'm getting that chain from Z1, it comes with a rivet master link and I can get a rivet tool on Amazon for ~$30 or buy a clip on master link. Is there any disadvantage to getting the clip on style?

 

[GSXR7ED]

Interesting thread. I never had a problem with my 630 chain and I have a 530 conversion kit (From Z1) ready to go; just need to R2 it. As always, good info on here.

 

[Guest]

I was under the impression that O-ring chains do not really need `lubrication' since the grease is backed inside the chain, hence the purpose of the O-ring's.

This is correct. You only need to keep an o-ring chain clean and rust free. I live in a dry area so I clean the chain with WD-40 or kerosene and then leave it dry. If I get rained on or it gets wet, I wipe it off with WD-40 again. If you live in a coastal region or other high humidity area you may have to use some chain lube of some sort to keep corrosion at bay.

So I'm getting that chain from Z1, it comes with a rivet master link and I can get a rivet tool on Amazon for ~$30 or buy a clip on master link. Is there any disadvantage to getting the clip on style?

The clip on master link is weaker and more likely to come apart, on a theoretical level. On a practical level they are just fine. I have ran them for thousands of KM's and never had an issue and many others will tell you the same. Do whichever is easier/cheaper/makes you feel secure and don't worry about it.


Mark

 

[Guest]

Hope you enjoyed your trip, good info here
Thanks

 

[dennco2]

I use X-ring 530 gold chain. When it gets dirty so as to not look so goldish, I spray clean it with kerosene .... then rag it real good ... then apply gear oil like the manufacturer recommends. Rolling resistance is immediately improved and my chain keeps going and going. Approx. 6,000 miles on it now and just did a very minor adjustment. I measure at the bottom of chain and go for 1 1/4" of up and down deflection. I feel best with master links that are riveted on ... not clipped. Riveting has to meet specs or it too can be dangerous. High powered bikes need care and attention to detail.