Who says modern bikes are complicated?

[Joe Nardy]

Browsing the Super T?ner? forums I found that Yamaha restricts throttle opening significantly in the first three gears and that an ECU flash makes a big difference in power delivery and driveability. So I purchased a Flash Tune on bike cable, software, and maps. I had to access the ECU to add some pins to the connector. Here's what the right side electrical panel looks like.

It actually looks worse than it is. There have been several electrical farkles added and all the wiring has been added to this panel. I am in the process of adding a fuse block under the seat and relocating all the wiring there. It will look much nicer and be more accessible.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Guest]

ha, not much more than a couplea relays there, eh?

 

[Joe Nardy]

ha, not much more than a couplea relays there, eh?

The ECU is buried in there as well.......not easy to find or access. I'm glad I got the on bike cable for the tuner. The other option was a bench cable which requires the ECU to be removed from the bike any time you want to tweak or change maps.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[bccap]

Browsing the Super T?ner? forums I found that Yamaha restricts throttle opening significantly in the first three gears and that an ECU flash makes a big difference in power delivery and driveability. So I purchased a Flash Tune on bike cable, software, and maps. I had to access the ECU to add some pins to the connector. Here's what the right side electrical panel looks like.

It actually looks worse than it is. There have been several electrical farkles added and all the wiring has been added to this panel. I am in the process of adding a fuse block under the seat and relocating all the wiring there. It will look much nicer and be more accessible.

Thanks,
Joe

Is that a Chicago street map ?

 

[leedutcher]

My stomach hurts looking at it...lol...I'm sure the wiring diagram is a joy to read as well...

 

[mrbridgeport]

Cool stuff joe.

 

[Guest]

I renovated a kitchen that looked similar last year. The PO had done his own wiring and electric heaters were linked to light fixtures. Some bare live wires were shoved into the walls. Sorting out the 850 was challenging enough, but this looks like a real challenge.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Wow. Looks like the box with the green wire and the relay to its right are aftermarket. Everything else looks factory. What a tangle.

 

[GelandeStrasse]

Don't cut the RED wire!

 

[JTGS850GL]

Wait till that bike gets to be 30 years old and see what electrical gremlins show up.

 

[jwhelan65]

Snip one little red wire and try and go for a ride..

 

[Guest]

OMG, and some here have difficultly wiring in a new stator and R/R. Lordy lordy.

 

[Rob S.]

My philosophy: no grip heaters, no seat heaters, no electric suits. No radio, no phones, no intercoms, no GPS.

No lights, no...wait, scratch that last one. I feel like riding tonight.

 

[Guest]

Lots of stuff to go wrong there.

 

[robertbarr]

Here's a late model Goldwing getting an air filter change. It has to be disassembled just a bit more. This is mine -- the one in my sig. I've heard estimates of $400 - $500 from dealerships to change the air filter. Took me 2 1/2 hours to get it all done.

But really, for a fuel-related performance modification like Joe's doing here, something like this is (IMHO) far better than pulling carbs and horsing around with jets & shims.

In both cases, some access would be a friendly gesture from the factory...

 

[850 Combat]

Here's a late model Goldwing getting an air filter change. It has to be disassembled just a bit more. This is mine -- the one in my sig. I've heard estimates of $400 - $500 from dealerships to change the air filter. Took me 2 1/2 hours to get it all done.

But really, for a fuel-related performance modification like Joe's doing here, something like this is (IMHO) far better than pulling carbs and horsing around with jets & shims.

In both cases, some access would be a friendly gesture from the factory...

OK No wing for me. I sold a BMW and a Concours because oil changes were too hard.

 

[bwringer]

Is... is that... is that a blue Scotchlok on the left?


EVIL! PURE EVIL, I TELL YOU!


Some of the other "post-factory" wiring looks pretty janky as well -- blue posi-taps at the top right (these usually work OK, they're just ugly and bulky), and bare terminals on that relay on the right (you know, the one with that totally unprotected green wire leading to it just sort of draped across everything).

But man, I hope you fix that Scotchlok before buttoning up. I absolutely hate those things.



The harsh glare of a flash makes things look a lot more complicated than they are in person.

 

[koolaid_kid]

You are right, Brian. That is an accident waiting to happen. Yuch.

 

[Joe Nardy]

Is... is that... is that a blue Scotchlok on the left?


EVIL! PURE EVIL, I TELL YOU!


Some of the other "post-factory" wiring looks pretty janky as well -- blue posi-taps at the top right (these usually work OK, they're just ugly and bulky), and bare terminals on that relay on the right (you know, the one with that totally unprotected green wire leading to it just sort of draped across everything).

But man, I hope you fix that Scotchlok before buttoning up. I absolutely hate those things.



The harsh glare of a flash makes things look a lot more complicated than they are in person.

All the above will be corrected. I have a decent amount of room under the seat to install a power distribution setup that is much more accessible. I fabricated a bracket, added a fuse block and ground terminal strip. I ran 8 gauge wire from the battery to the switched main relay, ground terminal, and from the relay to the fuse block. Here's what it looks like so far:

All powered accessories will be wired to the fuse block with grounds attached to the ground terminal strip. Relays will be attached with heavy duty velcro for easy swap out in case of failure.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[posplayr]

A few tips,
I would spray that terminal block and other connections with Detoxit.

You have already done so, but you could get some nice brass ring lugs and shrink tubing and do a nicer job than those PVC crush style crimps.

I would also solder the ring lung end of the crimp to make sure that corrosion cant compromise the conductivity between crimp and wire.

In reality you probably don't need anything more than 12 ga; For a GS SSPB nothing is over 14 ga.