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Yet another nice rattlecan job - w/pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter DCgs450L
  • Start date Start date
D

DCgs450L

Guest
I got sick of the rusty fenders and made an executive decision. When the rear end started smoking from a brake light short, I removed the fenders and painted them.
Involved: heavy sanding, one coat rust reformer, two coats rust resistant primer (brown), three coats color, and two coats clearcoat.
The Result: Asolutely amazed me.
The tank is still black, as the fenders were a test. I used Duplicolor Auto Spray that matched my car (Deep Cranberry Pearl) and Duplicolor Truck, Van, and SUV Clearcoat. One 5oz can of the color yielded three coats on each fender plus small touchup spritzes. I then let them set for 3 days in a hot shed in my backyard to cure. The final result was an exact match for the factory paint job on my car. If I wet sanded before the CC I think it may be show quality. Without color sanding, the final result is a hard, smooth and glossy finish that I am really happy with. I am hoping that because it is designed to repair auto paint that it will have the same durability. (especially with regards to accidental gas spills on the tank)
While I was at it I painted the rusty headers and muffler end caps with 1200 degree ceramic paint and the forks and headlight ears with satin black Rustoleum paint.
Next step is the side covers and tank, but the priority is getting out there, because I have had this bike for 2 years and I nfinally get to ride her. Enjoy the pics, I hope this helps, since in my searches for paint options, I have come across a lot of people who are looking for that cheap alternative to a professional painter.
It has been three months and about a thousand miles since I did this, and the paint is still flawless. The ceramic header paint turns a little gray when water evaporates off of it, but it scrubs off with soap and water (just wipe it dry with a towel). I am planning to do the tank in the week or so that the temp goes below 60 degrees.
I have one question, and be honest, notice in pic one that I chose the color to match my "purple woodie" as I call my (vinyl) wood panelled PT Cruiser. Should I slap some wood grain vinyl on the side of the tank, or would that just be too damn weird? The eagle emblem is a sticker under the existing clearcoat, so painting the sides involves blasting it sown to the metal. Unless I find a way to do a maroon/black two tone that retains the black and emblem and covers the scratches with the new paint.
Here's a link to the pics:

http://home.att.net/~mschwimer/gs/GS_painted.htm
 
very nice....just a warning to you all from personal experience...i put 4 coats of clear on my rattle can job in hopes it would prevent any gas spillage from harming it drasticly...It doesnt...my pretty tank i posted up here is fuxored :( Live and learn i guess...and ill be taking it to a pro over the winter...that can clear just isnt hard enough...
 
in my case I would never try a Gas tank, but a fender's worth a try could end up being
a temporary fix. Rob
 
The clear is just as susceptible to gas as the color...

I think the real trick if you're going to use one part paint is: be careful with gas! Also let it cure for a good long time and wax the heck out of it.
 
Nice job. Skip the wood, ok? ;-)

Why skip the wood? It's a great look..........on the right bike, of course:

Fennimore_2007_33.JPG
 
I've done extensive testing & painting over the last four years. I have used just about every type of rattle can paint in every combination you can. The bottom line is that rattle can clearcoats are not impervious to gas. Don't believe the claims. Also you shouldn't wax any paint job for at least 3 months to allow the solvents to outgas. Waxing too soon can screw the paintjob. Wax will not protect the rattle can paint finish from gas either.

Automotive two part urethane epoxies are the only hard finishes I have found to keep gas from ruining your finish.You can use just about any rattle can for your base coat if you use the auto clear coat. This will save a bit of money as 3 part autofinishes can run $30/$40 an up per quart ( enough for 2 or 3 bikes once you get the hang of it). With the rattle cans you need to be careful mixing brands as many are not compatable. Test first.


They are not hard to use but do require spray equipment (compressor, hose and spray gun) and are considerably more expensive than rattle cans. Decent equipment is not that expensive anymore and you can get a 3 to 5 gallon compressor with hose and fittings for $50 to $100 and HVLP guns ( High volume/ Low pressure......easiest to use and produces a gentle spray.....cuts down on overspray i.e. problems on the finish) for $25 and up.

I have heard that in some areas auto paint suppliers can make you up a spray bomb of paint and or clearcoat for a more reasonable price but it is not available in my community. Check with your local auto paint supplier.

I have ruined 2 tank jobs using 2 different major brands that were supposed to be impervious to gas. If I had done it right from the get go i would have saved a whole bunch of time and the extra expense.

Just my experiences.

Cheer,
Spyug
 
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very nice....just a warning to you all from personal experience...i put 4 coats of clear on my rattle can job in hopes it would prevent any gas spillage from harming it drasticly...It doesnt...my pretty tank i posted up here is fuxored :( Live and learn i guess...and ill be taking it to a pro over the winter...that can clear just isnt hard enough...
I rattle canned my Guzzi and there is no clear and Have spilled gas on the tank a few times with no side effect. I used rustoleum gloss black.
 
I rattle canned my Guzzi and there is no clear and Have spilled gas on the tank a few times with no side effect. I used rustoleum gloss black.
Do they make rustoleum gold?? if so ill repaint myself..
 
Thats why I'm painting everything on my bike with good ol' rustoleum \\:D/. This stuff is TOUGH. First thing i painted was my frame and I recently got some aircraft remover on it and the rustoleum laughed it off. Not to mention I was color sanding my tank yesterday and it took 320 grit to knockdown the Orange Peel. A few more coats of Gloss black and then a whole lotta clear and I think the tank will stand up to whatever I throw at it
 
ohhh man that antique brass might look even kewler than gold!! N1 we might just have to have a painting party one day soon...I wonder if Pauly could put automotive clear over that stuff?? Anyone know about that??
 
well I've heard that some automotive clear and paints don't mix very well and cause problems. Like the paint bubbling up etc etc. But it all depends on the paints
 
either way i think i almost like that brushed brass colour better than the gold...gives it that older classy look id think...ill have to see what it actually looks like on something...bummer to have to paint again, but i should have expected as much with as many times as ive had that tank off...Hows you Riot? havent chatted much lately..
 
either way i think i almost like that brushed brass colour better than the gold...gives it that older classy look id think...ill have to see what it actually looks like on something...bummer to have to paint again, but i should have expected as much with as many times as ive had that tank off...Hows you Riot? havent chatted much lately..

Yeah that is a bummer. I guess they got a point when they say I don't have time to do it right but I have time to do it twice. But meh I'm liking the whole painting aspect of my project. I bought some little device that holds the spray can like a gun so it makes me feel all professional :). And ditto with the antique brass instead of gold. I think it'll look killer... I've just been getting on with my project. I can finally say everything is painted. Well except for the wheels. Those I'll get on tomorrow. But yeah the frame and tank are ready to go and I should start putting it back together this weekend if time permits. I'd post up pics but I lost that damn stupid camera AGAIN :oops:. So far the frame, swingarm, and the bottom of the front forks are flat black, the tank is gloss black and the front chrome fender also. I have a harley rear fender that I'm planning on mounting up but until I can think of a good way to mount it thats sitting in the shed. I'm thinking of painting the motor but I'm a bit weary. I don't know how it'll effect the cooling and such. Oh and I jacked some handlebars off of an old mountain bike that was sitting in the shed. They're essential drag bars. I'm gonna put them on tomorrow and see if I like it. Hopefully I'll find that camera and get some pics of for you guys

***********Sorry for threadjacking************************
 
Yeah that is a bummer. I guess they got a point when they say I don't have time to do it right but I have time to do it twice. But meh I'm liking the whole painting aspect of my project. I bought some little device that holds the spray can like a gun so it makes me feel all professional :). And ditto with the antique brass instead of gold. I think it'll look killer... I've just been getting on with my project. I can finally say everything is painted. Well except for the wheels. Those I'll get on tomorrow. But yeah the frame and tank are ready to go and I should start putting it back together this weekend if time permits. I'd post up pics but I lost that damn stupid camera AGAIN :oops:. So far the frame, swingarm, and the bottom of the front forks are flat black, the tank is gloss black and the front chrome fender also. I have a harley rear fender that I'm planning on mounting up but until I can think of a good way to mount it thats sitting in the shed. I'm thinking of painting the motor but I'm a bit weary. I don't know how it'll effect the cooling and such. Oh and I jacked some handlebars off of an old mountain bike that was sitting in the shed. They're essential drag bars. I'm gonna put them on tomorrow and see if I like it. Hopefully I'll find that camera and get some pics of for you guys

***********Sorry for threadjacking************************

I was worried about that too, as i plan on painting my engine at some point...from most posts ive read, its a non issue..just make sure you get the high temp stuff..
 
How are you gonna go about prepping the surface? Cuz scoring every individual fin sounds like a real PITA
 
ya dont....that engine paint has ceramic base in it...sticks well without scuffing. Just make sure you get all the grease, oil and what not off the motor first, IE clean the living chit out of it.
 
i did a rattle can job over the spring.duplicolor primer and paint.
i was worried about the clear though as gas will wreck the job.so i ordered a two part clear from a paint company states side
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000_0006-1.jpg

000_0005-1.jpg

one can did 4 coats on the tank,side covers and chain gaurd.i have spilled gas on the tank a few times with no problems at all.
it's called spraymax.
 
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