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1980 GS1000ET back from the dead.....I hope.

Suzuki Mad

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Before I start, I'm from the UK OK.

Let me take you back to a time long ago when I only had 2 bikes........

I was younger, keener and had space in the garage to work and enjoy myself. I wanted a GSF1200 bandit to save me riding the GS1000E and the GSX1100ES out in the weather. One came up so it got used. The GSX1100ESD went to the back of the garage and was only rolled out for shows and that was it.

Sadly the GS1000E on a ride out started to leak oil from the left cylinder head gasket and down the cam chain tunnel. As I had the Bandit the GS1000E got put to the back fo the garage and left for a rainy day and when I had the money.

Roll forward a few years and the garage is full of bikes.

GSX1100ESD
GS1000ET
GSF1200K2
RF900RS2
RF900RS2 Yoshimura.

I ride the RF900RS2. The bandit is leaking fuel, the RF Yoshi is way too quick.......

Then along comes Covid 19 and also April 2, 2020. Retirement!

20th April 2020 the GS1000E see's the light outside the garage for the first time in over 10 years. I've rebuild the front forks with new tubes, new oil, new seals, new caps, new valves and torqued it all up. Refitted the front brakes with new pads and regreased the sliding pins. Sadly the master cylinder is not working the piston seems to be stuck. I will have to order one.

Pulled the airbox out and removed the 12 year old battery that was dry as the preveriable chip. New battery on and a quick test. The lump still turns over. I know the carbs have got to come out and the tank needs doing.

Checked the lights. Dash comes on, headlight and tail light work but indicators dont seem to have enough get up and go. Bad earth I guess.

I have all the parts for the cylinder head. The header bolts are loose its just the 3 small ones that might not want to come out.

So over the next few weeks I will be getting the tank done, pulling the CV's and hopefully being able to sort them out. Then the head gasket and with that she should run. OK. I will check the brakes front and rear, change the oils and filters and then hopefully she can make it to the garage for an MOT. First time in over 10 years.

Wish me luck.
 
Last time she was out of the garage in about 2010. Excuse the rubbish pile.





And today.....





 
I get 1776, but hopefully you like tea but 1812, you've lost me there.

Hi James. The Yanks declared war on us in 1812. Not that well known over here as it's seen as a bit of sideshow to the main event (beating Napoleon).

Good to see you getting on with the GS. Your old S is still in the garage. She's done a good few miles since I picked it up and has been used when the weather forecast was a bit iffy. She's on the programme this year for restoring this year.
 
I found when it was time to recondition my 1980 GS1000E's m/cyl that there was pitting in the bore. Being that these are made of unobtainium I chose to have the original m/cyl sleeved. A shop here in the states bored it oversize which with the sleeve brought it back to standard bore. Permanent fix.
 
Hi James.
Good to see you getting on with the GS. Your old S is still in the garage. She's done a good few miles since I picked it up and has been used when the weather forecast was a bit iffy. She's on the programme this year for restoring this year.

Hi Hampshire Hog. Good to hear from you.....

Glad the old GS1000S is still going.

A little concerned about the lack of NOS parts for the GS now. Seems as its going to get harder to find stuff to get her running.

Tomorrow the tanks got to come off and I will have to investigate how bad it is inside in the way of rust but also what damage there is to the fuel level sensor an also the fuel tap. I did leave her with half a tank of fuel but from the sounds of it there is none in the tank and none is on the floor. And before anybody says anything its not in the sump.
 
Another day bring another walk to the garage, well its only 6 ft away from the back door.

Pulled the tank for the first time in over 10 years. Dropped the usual rubber grommet down the battery tray and carbs gap so a bit of fishing got that out. Pulled the airbox out and then lifted the tank after pulling the two fuel lines and the fuel gauge.

Popped the lid and to my surprise the tank isn't too bad inside. There is rust around the filler hole and on the level where the fuel was but it's not too bad I think. Decision is now do I try and sort it myself or send it away to be done?

I'm a little concerned with the fuel level gauge sender unit as they are now unobtainable from Suzuki and they don't have any replacement options. (Anybody got a spare they would be willing to let me have for a cash sum?)

I've spare fuel taps and a rebuild kit will sort that out easy enough.

The fuel is like 'terps' from the smell. I guess that's having been left for over 10 years.

I will try and get some photos shortly.
 
Well this is the fuel gauge sender unit....




It's rather rusty and when I connect it back to the power and the bike, lift the float the unit sadly doesn't operate the fuel gauge on the clocks. I'm not sure if it can be repaired or I am going to have to find a replacement one from somewhere.

This is the filler cap and inside the tank.






I've done nothing to it other than just take the filler cap off. Doesnt look too bad.





Trying to show you further into the tank and hoping that it will make sense. It doesnt look bad but I'm going to have to do something with the rust. Oh well.

And yes......






It gets crowded in here.
 
Member Admiral Beez recently paid for the rebuild and recommissioning of his fuel sender. Seems like a nice job.
http://tristarrradiator.com/
Shipping to and fro will nearly double the cost ($100), but it's a one-off cost and will work for another lifetime.
 
I'm thinking about getting the head off. I know I'm a way away from that at the moment but was wondering what if anything I could do to help the two small bolts by Cylinders 1 and 4 to come out without snapping and shearing off and the small one that pinches the front between the head and the barrels.

My worry would be they snap off and while the head comes off I cant get them drilled out as I dont have the kit or machinery to remove them.

I'm thinking that a lot of anti seize sprayed over them over a few days would help. Also heating the head and barrels with a gas torch might help swell the aluminium a touch. One trick was to tighten then a real tad then start undoing.

But these bolts have been in there nearly 40 years.

Any other thoughts as to how to get them out in one piece.
 
When I stripped the head off it hadn't ever been off in the previous 35 years (I think it's an '82 engine) and it had been exposed to loads of weather and road salt, muck over the years. The bolts didn't need any special attention. More of a problem was the crud that had built up on the barrel studs that hindered getting the barrels off cleanly.
 
More of a problem was the crud that had built up on the barrel studs that hindered getting the barrels off cleanly.

That's my other fear. The barrels lifting and the base gasket seal breaking.

I'm not in for a whole strip it down to base gasket, new base gasket, 'O' rings, new rings, honing the barrels and then a full rebuild of the top end. I mean Suzuki genuine pistons rings are ?125 a piston!! That ?500 for rings alone. Maybe I could get some genuine from the states.

She wasnt blowing smoke when I last ran her so I am hoping for an easy life here.

I had wondered about doing the valve guide seals while the head was exposed and the cams were out. But again its cost of genuine parts that put me off and aftermarket never seem to last like the genuines ones. That's my experience.
 
Remove the head and you stand a better than 50/50 chance of disturbing the base gasket and lower o-rings(at the oil feed studs) enough to leak on reassembly. That's when you kick yourself and have to do it over again and properly this time.
Bear in mind the ancient o-rings are hard and brittle and are only sealing out of habit right now. I'm amazed your base gasket isn't leaking already, as it's a common fault.
Regarding the rings - Cruzinimage.
 
Day 3 of the tank saga. Its taking a lot longer than I thought to clean just a little bit of rust inside the tank.

The Evapo-rust has gone black. When I 'washed' the tank out with water it flash rusted as I was removing the water. That was a big shocker. So had to seal the tank up again and start all over again. Second time around I washed it out with petrol. NO flash rust.

Sadly I can feel rust still inside the tank by the fuel gauge hole. Looks like I might have to go to stronger stuff or try this stuff my cousin suggested.

POR15 Small Fuel Car Tank Repair Kit Sealer - Frost Restoration Products

I'm not a fan of using acid based stuff for this as I want to save the paint on the outside of the tank.

Any other suggestions before I post the tank away for a guy in the VJMC to sort it out (and about ?200.)
 
Remove the head and you stand a better than 50/50 chance of disturbing the base gasket and lower o-rings(at the oil feed studs) enough to leak on reassembly. That's when you kick yourself and have to do it over again and properly this time.
Bear in mind the ancient o-rings are hard and brittle and are only sealing out of habit right now. I'm amazed your base gasket isn't leaking already, as it's a common fault.
Regarding the rings - Cruzinimage.

Cheers.

I think I have a 1100 base gasket but no '0' rings. The other issue is the ring cost. I will check you link. :tranquillity:
 
Not a lot to report today, had a lazy day with my feet up.

Will try and do more tomorrow if my right ankle is better.
 
Well had a slow day so far today.

Checked the rear brake calliper as it was sticking on the rear when wheeling the bike around to work on it. All seemed fine and when you pushed the brake pedal you could feel the pads move forward and back. Not a lot of corrosion in there and as the pads are new the pistons are well back in the calliper so I will leave them alone. The brake fluid was well nearly as brown as the fuel was so I changed the fluid and that seemed to make a difference straight away.

So it was carbs out time.

No no no.

I set up the reserve tank and thought why not. A bit of Aspen 4 fuel (its what I have in the garage for the mower) into the bottle and give it a shot.

Choke on, ignition on and give it a push.......


WOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOO

She fires right up on all 4 cylinders after being sat for over 10 years. OK, like a bag of spanners but she runs! Didn't like the idea of idling but she fired up on choke and sat at 2,000 rpm happily.

I had fuel dripping from the supply tubes on 3-4, I guess the O rings have failed there.

The carbs will have to come out but its not as bad as it could have been.

I'm stoked and pumped right now. More excitement to get them carbs out and sort plus getting the tank sorted out to.

The new fuel tap repair kit came today along with a few other small parts that I need. Just waiting for the carb kit to arrive from the supplier (from here) and then a few float bowl gaskets and I think we should be good to go.

Now If I can find a Junior Mad to help bleed the front brakes with new fluids things might be looking up!
 
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