1981 GS1000G - cleanup

[Guest]

My project:
Fixing up my GS1000G. It runs fine, and looks okay. I want it to look more original and I want to equip it for longer trips. Ratchet strapping a duffel bag is great but has its limitations. I don't really care for fairings and such, besides Norway is one of the warmest countries in the world (hehe, not really). I don't care for all the original things (the decals for the tank is a bit meh, I like the timeless look of keeping it clean), but I love the headlamp, the indicators and brakelight (excellent surface area, tiny lights are DUMB). I don't need my bike to be showroom worthy, but I want it to be ready to take me to Istanbull if I suddenly want to go back.

My bike:

The good:

• Bought it with brand new tires (front is from week 6 of 2019, forgot the rear, but new)
• Engine runs great
• Bike is super comfortable
• Easy to ride, and leans well
• Most essential parts seems to be in good condition

The bad:

• Saddle is from a GS650G
• Exhaust is 4-1 and is scratched on the bottom and dinged on the side
• Some bolts and parts are rusted (headlight "rim", mirror stick, handlebar, centrestand, foot brake lever)
• Brake and clutch lever is different color, and the clutch lever has worn paint
• Chips in frame paint
• Missing a couple of the rubber things for the side covers (replaced with glue and duct tape)
• Wrong mirrors
• The ?hlin rear suspension has worn like sponges on the bottom, the paint is scratched and the springs have worn paint
• Brake calipers is missing paint on parts (looks scraped off)
• One rear indicator has some white paint on its cover
• One of the round things is not shiny
• Cam chain clatters

The ugly:

• My oil is flowing out of the oil filter cover
• Leaking oil from right above the oil filter cover
• Cam chain tensioner is leaking oil
• Front fork is leaking oil
• Cam chain tensioner is leaking oil
• Gas tank has some rust
• Rear brake is dragging

Here is an album with more pictures. Suggestions on how to deal with anything is apprechiated. I figured a project thread would make sense to keep updates. So anyone interessted can follow.

Sadly the shop has my bike, dealing with my front fork, they also wanted to change the stearing bearing because it was worn? So I just told them to do it.

There is also a seemingly endless list of general maintenance I need to get on track with, so I will try to get that done too.

 

[Guest]

Reserved for todo list and parts needed.

Part I ordered today (2020-05-27):

59210-184-50 1 x 148.00 euro = 148.00 euro - Rotor
47117-450-00 4 x 1.50 euro = 6.00 euro - Rubber things for side covers (hope all four is the same)
69100-458-50 1 x 121.00 euro = 121.00 euro - Cylinder kit for brakes (waay to expensive, I know)
16512-451-01 1 x 28.00 euro = 28.00 euro - Oil filter cover (I wanted to see if it was shiny, my old one is fine, also want to experiment with painting/polishing)
01421-062-08 4 x 1.50 euro = 6.00 euro - Oil filter stufd
08313-110-68 3 x 1.50 euro = 4.50 euro -oil filter acorn nuts
08322-210-68 6 x 1.50 euro = 9.00 euro -Oil filter washers
16500-458-10 1 x 11.50 euro = 11.50 euro - oil filter
16518-450-00 1 x 5.00 euro = 5.00 euro - o-ring for oil filter (obscene price)
11971-450-10 1 x 12.50 euro = 12.50 euro
12837-470-00 1 x 2.50 euro = 2.50 euro
09168-060-09 1 x 1.50 euro = 1.50 euro
09280-060-03 1 x 1.50 euro = 1.50 euro
09440-120-17 1 x 2.00 euro = 2.00 euro
08322-110-88 1 x 1.50 euro = 1.50 euro
12833-470-01 1 x 21.00 euro = 21.00 euro - Rod for cam chain tensioner
Think the last parts are mostly related to the cam chain tensioner

 

[Steve]

That is a nice bike and a reasonable to-do list. :encouragement:

I am not so sure the seat is from a 650. The 650 seat would be considerably shorter and would not fit as well as that one does.

.

 

[Rijko]

I don't care for all the original things

Brake and clutch lever is different color, and the clutch lever has worn paint

You could polish both, i prefer the clean polished look and it's a low cost solution that looks great.

 

[GS1150Pilot]

Fixing that oil filter area leak should move up the list.

 

[Guest]

That is a nice bike and a reasonable to-do list. :encouragement:

I am not so sure the seat is from a 650. The 650 seat would be considerably shorter and would not fit as well as that one does.

.

I am basing it on some scribbling on the bottom of it. I might be misremembering. But I don't think its the right seat, if it is then my glove box is wrong (there is an odd gap, and the door won't keep shut). I can check tomorrow when I get it back from the shop people.

I am so torn about getting a GS850 that the seller is struggling to get rid of (has gone down from 28 000 to 24 000, but still can't sell it). I think 24 000 is waaaay too much. But if he could do 18-20k I am tempted. Buy it, take all the parts I want (seat, mirrors, bags, luggage rack, whatever else is prettier) and then sell it (or keep it as a spare/friend bike).

 

[Guest]

Fixing that oil filter area leak should move up the list.

That is probably the most important one. I need to get the new studs first though.

 

[Guest]

Bike got out of the shop today. They told me the inner tubes were rusted and stuff, but that they sanded them down. They added more engine oil (0.6 litres Oo), and changed the final drive oil. And the steering bearings.

They told me the adjustment for the dampeners were rusted stuck, but they fixed. How do I adjust them?

They also noted my tires were under inflated and a bad ground in the check oil lamp (as it lights when in neutral). I think its just the light from the neutral that leaks, thoughts?

 

[Guest]

Today the speedometer stopped working...

 

[Grimly]

Today the speedometer stopped working...

Welcome to the world of old instruments, and some folk wonder why I'm keen on a GPS speedo and an electrical tacho.

 

[Guest]

Today the speedometer stopped working...

My guess is that the speedo cable attachment has come loose from the speedo body. Just make sure it is fully screwed home. If not the problem, then it could be the speedo drive at the wheel hub. It think it's just a big washer with metal tangs /ears that engages with slots in the wheel one side and the speedo drive body on the other. Someone here will correct me if I'm wrong. If incorrectly installed, the tangs can bend up and stop engaging properly. The fix is to bend them back again.

You should clean off all the earthing points for your wiring harness, so they have shiney metal for good electrical connection back to the battery negative. Especially the engine to battery negative. The oil light and neutral lights are both grounded to the engine through their respective switch bodies. The are both live when the ignition is on and so illuminate when their switches connect to earth. Good luck with your project.

 

[Guest]

Finally my parts were shipped! So hopefully I can start sorting things out next week.

Worried about the brakes though.

 

[Guest]

I finally got parts! Now my bike will be oil leak free (from one end at least). I also got the little rubber cushions for the side panels, two was gone and replaced with some unidentifiable gew (need to clean that off).

Also have most of the cam chain tensioner bits (needs one oring not in the parts fiche).

So Im going to get a new oil filter and oil now.

They left out the rotor though :/ Hope it arrives soon.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

I
Also have most of the cam chain tensioner bits (needs one oring not in the parts fiche).
.

This is for 850 most likely the same but check

Cam chain tensioner
Small o-ring for the lock screw.
Suzuki Part No. 09280-06005
This o-ring measures 6mm ID X about 1.8mm thick. The fit in the tensioner is very tight, so use the Suzuki part if at all possible.
Large o-ring that goes at the base of the threads for the large cap nut.
Suzuki Part No. 09280-21013
This o-ring measures 21mm ID X about 2.5mm thick.


Oil seal, Suzuki Part No. 09284-10006. (10mm ID, 16mm OD, 4mm thick)
tensioner pushrod spring Suzuki part No. 09440-12017 for the GS850.

if you are thinking about renewing the large oring you will need a decent rattle gun that nut is real tight, there is a need for care if damage is not done.
in fact there is no need to renew it as they don't leak from there.

 

[Guest]

This is for 850 most likely the same but check

Cam chain tensioner
Small o-ring for the lock screw.
Suzuki Part No. 09280-06005
This o-ring measures 6mm ID X about 1.8mm thick. The fit in the tensioner is very tight, so use the Suzuki part if at all possible.
Large o-ring that goes at the base of the threads for the large cap nut.
Suzuki Part No. 09280-21013
This o-ring measures 21mm ID X about 2.5mm thick.


Oil seal, Suzuki Part No. 09284-10006. (10mm ID, 16mm OD, 4mm thick)
tensioner pushrod spring Suzuki part No. 09440-12017 for the GS850.

if you are thinking about renewing the large oring you will need a decent rattle gun that nut is real tight, there is a need for care if damage is not done.
in fact there is no need to renew it as they don't leak from there.

09280-06005 I have. I lack the 09284-10006,

I have a push rod and a new spring too, my cam chain is rattling (maybe what I need is a new cam chain?). I also have a 12837-47010 GASKET, TENSIONER ADJ. And I have 09168-06023, which I think is for the cam chain adjuster. I have a 08322-01087 WASHER which I have no idea what is for.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

According to partsoutlaw, the only place I see that washer On your bike is on the wiring harness fiche.

OOPS, I lied.

Found it on the cam chain fiche as well. That?s definitely more apropos to your current endeavor.

 

[Guest]

According to partsoutlaw, the only place I see that washer On your bike is on the wiring harness fiche.

OOPS, I lied.

Found it on the cam chain fiche as well. That’s definitely more apropos to your current endeavor.

That makes sense, on the picture it sort of looks like an o-ring.

 

[Guest]

New tyre, new mirrors and JIS screwdrivers arrived today. Picked up moly grease and penetrating oil. Can't wait to go over and assemble it all!

 

[Guest]

Today was a rather productive day. I put on the wheel, brake disc and new brake pads:

New tyre is Bridgestone Battlax 46 130/90-17. Brake pads are brembo (that will make the bike faster right?). Brake rotor is Suzuki.

Put on original mirrors, and I fixed the right hand switch gear (I removed a superflous screw from the inside and made it flush). Now the switchgear does not move when I give it throttle.

Notice my new screwdrivers from gofast innovation on the seat. They are much better than my philliphs heads.

Mirrors from the other side. I am so happy with them. Not sure why the round thing is leaking oil.

New oil filter cover (look how shiny!), and new studs and acorn nuts and washers. And I torqued them to spec! And on the second attempt I actually got the o-ring in place. They say use a tiny amount of oil to make the o-ring stick. I disagree. Soak the cover, and the oring in a ton of oil. After its completely covered in oil the o-ring will stick. Dont mind the mess, if the oring slips youll have oil everywhere anyways.

I used nylon something sheets to remove the rust from the end of the axle, it has been annoying me that it was rusty. It seems someone for some reason have abused the end and the sides with some sort of tool. I am going to use one of the sheets to polish the inner fork. I love the nylon sheets, they work great on bigger things. I did not have success removing the rust from the sticks that go through the brake pads though (might have to put them in some sort of chemical?).

 

[Guest]

Picture to show how annoyinlgy rusty the axle used to be.