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Guest
Guest
Today my project was removing those rusty screws from the carbs tops and float bowls.
They seem to be somewhat random and some have very bad heads.
All but three was cooperative, the white stuff is ceramic paste (I use it for anti-seize). Going to buy some screw remover and see if that works... Considered dremelling a new head but worried that would go badly.
The float bowls luckily all cooperated. Some were missing those weird washers too.
I also got my Snell Braided Steel Brake lines today, so I might throw on the rear one (I just love bleeding brakes...).
The kit contained four brake lines (isnt there more?), a bunch of banjo bolts, copper washers and stuff.
The rear brake line has rubber things on it so it will stay in the metally things, which is nice. The length for the rear one seems to be spot on. Haven't checked the front though. Interestingly enough they are made in the UK.
They seem to be somewhat random and some have very bad heads.
All but three was cooperative, the white stuff is ceramic paste (I use it for anti-seize). Going to buy some screw remover and see if that works... Considered dremelling a new head but worried that would go badly.
The float bowls luckily all cooperated. Some were missing those weird washers too.
I also got my Snell Braided Steel Brake lines today, so I might throw on the rear one (I just love bleeding brakes...).
The kit contained four brake lines (isnt there more?), a bunch of banjo bolts, copper washers and stuff.
The rear brake line has rubber things on it so it will stay in the metally things, which is nice. The length for the rear one seems to be spot on. Haven't checked the front though. Interestingly enough they are made in the UK.
Rijko
Forum Sage
If you take a small dremel disc, you can cut a new straight line in the damaged JIS head and try a impact wrench.
Usually works for me.
But first i try with a wire end cutter. Due to its design it has a super grip in the round head. Usually works for me.
Should be ok, check your curent setup. 3 on the front, 1 on the rear.
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Guest
Guest
I tried dremmeling them into straight line, but the head seemed to be made of butter so the tools just slipped. I bought two kits to remove broken screws. One contained gradually bigger drill bits, this kit I did not have any luck with. But I am not sure that is because I had no idea how to use it or because it was useless.
The other kit had dril bits, guides and long rods with lines on them. You drill a small hole, smash the long rod into it, then you have a thin you put around so you can losen with a ratchet or wrench or whatever. Looks like:
The guides for the drill bits I had absolutely no luck with, I just free handed it. My drill was out of battery (cheap POS) but luckily the smallest drill bit fit the dremel, so I used it to drill the holes. All the screws came out with very little trouble.
I got an impact driver, but its 1/2" so I cant attach bits to it... Need to sort that tomorrow.
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Rijko
Forum Sage
Yes, i have had that happen too, the rust devil seems to do that sometimes.
I have a similar set. Works great, but on the smaller bolts like the M4/5/6 i try the other methods first because there's not much flesh left after drilling.
Good on you that you got them out !
G
Guest
Guest
My brake lines were marked with DOT 11/80 1/8 some letters after dot. Does this mean its the original brake lines? Oo
Attaching the new one in the back was pretty straight forward. Losen all one, remove, put in place new one. I was worried the bolts are way shorter, but it seems not to matter.
It was raining so I didn't bleed them today, and the rubber thing that is under the torque arm is difficult to reach. I hope it will work properly when I have bled them. If the rear is a success, I will proceed to do the front.
Attaching the new one in the back was pretty straight forward. Losen all one, remove, put in place new one. I was worried the bolts are way shorter, but it seems not to matter.
It was raining so I didn't bleed them today, and the rubber thing that is under the torque arm is difficult to reach. I hope it will work properly when I have bled them. If the rear is a success, I will proceed to do the front.
