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1983 Suzuki GS1100ED --- "Big Boy"

  • Thread starter Thread starter Flaming Chainsaws
  • Start date Start date
Personally I would remove all the old paint so you have an even finish but don't just take my word as my stuff still didn't turn out great.
I would like to do that except it took me nearly 4 hours to sand all the way down to where it is now! The fender is plastic so I cannot use any aircraft stripper :mad:.

Yeah... Why not? I'll sand it all the way down tomorrow.
 
You CAN use the stripper on plastic. I used it on my headlight bucket. Though, I had to throw it away as it pretty much melted :o

What was I thinking ??? LOL
LOL! I worded that wrong but you know what I mean. :)

My headlight bucket is metal though :rolleyes:.
 
they sell whats called "sandable primer" goes on thick to fill imperfections and you can build up layers to hide ridges and what not. and sand it smooth between coats. look into it. ya gotta primer it anyways.
 
they sell whats called "sandable primer" goes on thick to fill imperfections and you can build up layers to hide ridges and what not. and sand it smooth between coats. look into it. ya gotta primer it anyways.
Well, it's not really needed anymore since I feathered out all of the edges. I'm just gonna sand it all the way down. Besides, my carbs will be in the mail tomorrow so I have nothing else to do again haha!

The primer that I use is Dupli-Color's autobody filler primer.
 
Right side cover started as this.
DSCN4239.jpg


Became this 1 hour later.
DSCN4240.jpg


And then 3 hours from start.
DSCN4241.jpg


Still need to sand off those little bits but I'll get to it later.


Thanks to SVSooke, I now have a fuse box cover. It's not bolted on and is not tucked under the black cover yet. Just a mock up.
DSCN4242.jpg
 
OK. I will do a search for clutch rattle.

I do realize that I have the oil pressure switch. But I have no idea how a wire would connect to it. And yes, my oil switch is missing the hole for a oil temp.

This is the stock oil pressure switch that I pulled off from this engine. Why would it not have the oil temp switch built into it? An '82 GS1100EZ gauge cluster also has the oil temp gauge, right?
A stock '82 1100ez would have the oil temp sensor. How many bolts on your valve cover? 20 bolt is 80-81 24 bolt would be 82-83.
The clutch rattle is from the springs on the inside of the clutch basket. You cant see them unless you take the basket out. If they are bad enough your basket could come apart and make a real mess of the engine inside. Other than that it is real annoying.
http://www.theflyingbanana.com/clutchhub.htm
 
A stock '82 1100ez would have the oil temp sensor. How many bolts on your valve cover? 20 bolt is 80-81 24 bolt would be 82-83.
The clutch rattle is from the springs on the inside of the clutch basket. You cant see them unless you take the basket out. If they are bad enough your basket could come apart and make a real mess of the engine inside. Other than that it is real annoying.
http://www.theflyingbanana.com/clutchhub.htm
Hmmm.... Never thought about that. What if my engine is actually a 1980-1981 GS1100ET/EX? The square headlights. I need to check this out.

Yup, I will get to the clutch issue this week.
 
I counted 20 hex bolts on the valve cover and then 4 philips bolts over each cam cap. So that's 24 bolts right? Or do I not count the philips?
 
Hmmm.... Never thought about that. What if my engine is actually a 1980-1981 GS1100ET/EX? The square headlights. I need to check this out.

Yup, I will get to the clutch issue this week.


I think you can do a serial number check for that.
I cannot recall where I saw it but there is a definite record of engines and the years they were produced.
I suppose so guys won't steal em and file down the number.
 
The paint prep's looking good FC but you're spending a lot of time on it... what do you hit it with first? 120 grit (to start with) should give quick results...
 
The paint prep's looking good FC but you're spending a lot of time on it... what do you hit it with first? 120 grit (to start with) should give quick results...
I'm using 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I think I'm just slow haha! But that's all I have and don't want to buy any more. I've only used 2 sandpapers for both the fender and side cover. Good?

Now I do know that I should go finer to erase any scratches. But it's pretty damn smooth right now. Hmmm...
 
You should use the coarser paper just to cut into the top layer of that black crap.

Do nothing but graze and open the surface so as to not make any deep gouges to the substrate.

Much quicker.
 
yup, as Rusty said (even if that means you may need to spend an additional 2 bucks on the paper) :p
you probably want to finish off with 400 wet
 
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