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1983 Suzuki GS750E

  • Thread starter Thread starter mont_man22
  • Start date Start date
of course it happened again, because you have yet to diagnose and repair the problem. And again I say...

ThrottleBack said:
Dude mine is an 81 with 40 original miles that was serviced YEARLY and i STILL have had to invest time and patience. What you need now is to forget riding it and get a new battery (will u ever trust this one again? nope), check all the wiring, run a few new grounds (r/r to solenoid bolt, solenoid bolt to frame by batt, frame to batt neg; engine casing to bat neg), change the barrel connectors to new spade connectors, and test the charging system.

This prevents future headache, saves money, gives you working knowledge of your bike, and solves the problem.
Click to expand...
 
These bikes will run all day on a dead battery IF the stator and R/R are working fine.
If they are not working fine, then the bike will run off the stored energy in the battery, until it runs out of course.

For me, my R/R took a dump and took my stator along with it, and I was able to get an upgraded Honda R/R and a used stator from ebay for $60.

Never had a problem since.

As of right now you think a new battery may have solved your problem, but wouldn't you want to run a quick and simple test to know for sure?

Sure beats sitting on the road side waiting for AAA.

You need to follow the instruction given to you here if you want a reliable and safe bike that won't leave you stranded.

This forum is full of GS owners who at one time or another have ALL experienced the exact problems you have, and they KNOW how to check for and fix these problems with solid long-term solutions.

So run your bike through the tests in the stator papers, report back to us your numbers and we can tell you 100% for sure exactly what's going on, and how to properly fix it.
 
Well i fell like an idiot for not noticing this earlier... you live and you learn. Calling to try and get a fair priced R/R tomorrow locally otherwise i found them for 40-100$ online or with a one year warranty from ElectroSport ;)

Thanks for all the help guys looks like ill be wiring up a new R/R!
 
This is why we strongly suggest you go through everything on the list. Leaving anything out will leave you stranded. We know;; we have walked that path before.
 
Have taken a good majority of the bike apart. Wondering now why it blew in the first place. All the rest of the wiring looks good from what i can physically see. Since the stock plastic connector is COMPLETELY fried i will have to wire the new one up. And my continued ignorance leads me to 2 further inquiries: why did it fry and when i put a new one on how the heck will i know what wires go where! :confused:
 
You can use the Honda ones, or a compu-fire depending on your budget.

Also since your R/R is very heavily cooked, you are going to need to test your stator as well.

Here is your cheapest good option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-MO...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f25ea5960&vxp=mtr Made a mistake, this IS NOT a compatible r/r

This is the current best proven option, also most costly: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Reg...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2267a3d2&vxp=mtr

One option that I believe is still being checked out on here, but looking promising is: http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/...s&mfg=Polaris&mfg1=Polaris&partnumber=4012941
 
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That melted plug won't matter, it won't be needed when you install a better regulator/rectifier.

It's very likely a dirty or corroded connector started all this.

You also NEED to test the stator as well, there is a chance it's fried.
If it is fried but you don't check it, it could fry your replacement r/r and/or leave your bike still not charging the battery.

I suggest you use the forum search feature and BassCliffs' site to read up on r/r upgrades and installations.

EDIT: Since the wiring harness is made up of many important connections that are just as old as the one that fried, you should get some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease and go through cleaning and protecting them all.

If you don't, another meltdown, similar or even worse than this one is only a matter of time.
 
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I read up on the stator papers but its diagnosing a fully assembled bike. Im sure your correct on a corroded wire. Wiring looks clean but ill have to figure out the best way to further diagnose the rest of the wiring while disassembled to make sure i wont fry a new install...

Also i found this link http://www.amazon.com/Regulator-Rec...0574988&sr=1-7&keywords=1983+Suzuki+Regulator
Steel Toed Tank said:
That melted plug won't matter, it won't be needed when you install a better regulator/rectifier.


Any thoughts?

It's very likely a dirty or corroded connector started all this.

You also NEED to test the stator as well, there is a chance it's fried.
If it is fried but you don't check it, it could fry your replacement r/r and/or leave your bike still not charging the battery.

I suggest you use the forum search feature and BassCliffs' site to read up on r/r upgrades and installations.
Click to expand...
 
You can still do the stator resistance (ohms) and ground tests with the bike like that.

These bikes came with poorly designed R/Rs that caused a lot of problems, replacing it with an R/R that has a better design is the best solution.

The different R/Rs work different ways. I don't know which way the caltric ones work, but that one in the first link I sent is the most common upgrade used on this site, and that on is only $6.

Also the instructions on how to install it are specifically written for that brand and type.

EDIT: my mistake, the shindigen R/R I linked above WILL NOT work, it is for 2 phase stators, GSes have 3 phase
 
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Yes, please look at the more modern R/R's. The two that you found are no better than the one that failed just about guaranteeing the same thing will happen again eventually. Equally important is crimping your new connectors. The most common crimpers are useless. Match your crimping tool to the type of connector you use or get one that has interchangeable dies for different types of connectors. This link may give you a better idea (look at the Die Sets in green on the left) :http://www.vintageconnections.com/
 
Output seems to be fine on the Stator. Could it just have burnt out from being old and maybe have gotten fried because i was riding it?
 
That type of R/R just seems prone to failure. It was overcharging evident because of your boiled out battery. That can damage the stator. You had the stator cover changed. Hopefully the stator in the new cover was good. If he put your old stater in the new cover, who knows. My current bike had an overcharging condition like yours. It had blackened the stator insulation varnish but was not visibly burnt so against everyone's good advise, I used it because it tested good. I also put a CompuFire series R/R in the bike at the same time. Just about a year later, the stator failed. I replaced the stator and as of this date I have approximately 10,000 trouble free miles on the bike after the change. If I had listened, I would have changed the stator when I was advised to. Your stator is an unknown as far as a visual inspection, so with a new more modern R/R you still might have a stator failure in the future. The older R/R's even the approved ones shunt (or short) through the stator when no additional charging is needed. The series type R/R shuts off and on depending on charging requirements, allowing the stator to run cooler on the off cycles where the shunt type dogs the stator 24/7.
 
I am supposed to meet up with a guy tomorrow who has a voltage regulator off of an 83 GS850. It has the connector and wire leads so it would be a MUCH easier fix. He says it will work fine. Any thoughts?
 
Here is how it usually plays out...clean, replace ALL bad/burnt connections, inspect/replace fuse box if need be, test battery, stator, RR. Buy new gasket, stator, Series RR install. Add a couple more ground wires. Go ride.
 
I replaced the R/R in my 550 with a shindegen from a Honda after mine went bad. I also cleaned every connector and ADDED GROUND WIRES. You need to make very sure you do this, these bikes are not well grounded.

Another suggestion: Go to Harbor Freight and get one of those $2.99 Multimeters (sometimes they are free). Take it home, cut off the leads put on spade connectors that you can put on your battery's terminal. Connect it and bundle up the wires under there somewhere. When you need to have a quick glance at your volts output just plug it into the MultiMeter. This works great going 60 down the hiway so you can see what volts are being put out at 5,000rpm. I just set it up on the tank and secure it with some tape
 
mont_man22 said:
I am supposed to meet up with a guy tomorrow who has a voltage regulator off of an 83 GS850. It has the connector and wire leads so it would be a MUCH easier fix. He says it will work fine. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

You're going to replace the poorly designed stock r/r with another poorly designed stock r/r, against all the wisdom and advice you've been given here.

Well, I wish you the best electrical luck with your bike.

edit: fixed wrong word, thanks Jeff.
 
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Steel Toed Tank said:
You're going to replace the poorly designed stock stator with another poorly designed stock stator, against all the wisdom and advice you've been given here.

Well, I wish you the best electrical luck with your bike.
Click to expand...

I think you mean poorly designed stock R/R but the point it taken. I am not necessarily a believer that the stock r/r's are always to blame, the poor grounding system and poor electrical maintenance is probably a factor as well. He knows the risks I guess...report back in with results
 
Still wanting to know if this will fit my bike tho... I was told it will and since it has 5 terminals one would assume its a 3 phase.
 
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