1983_GS750E - Rebuild

[GateKeeper]

Actually I have a question ?

in this pictures of the rear caliper, there are 2 allen bolts holding the two halves together, do I take these out so I can split it apart so I can take the pistons out and redo them and the seals, or is this a bad idea and they should not be removed, I did try a bit, but they are in there tight

 

[SVSooke]

You did do the air compressor thing to them?
I got my SS lines here http://stores.ebay.ca/Rennsport-Auto-Parts .Fairly close to you and a good price.Don't get red lines though.Mine are sun faded.

 

[GateKeeper]

Thanks for the link, I will check them out....

no I have not done anything to the calipers as of yet, just got around to taking them off, but if that is all I need to do, and out the pistons come, then great, I won't remove the 2 allen bolts

 

[SVSooke]

Thanks for the link, I will check them out....

no I have not done anything to the calipers as of yet, just got around to taking them off, but if that is all I need to do, and out the pistons come, then great, I won't remove the 2 allen bolts

If air doesn't do it they are pretty stuck.Couple of the CB calipers are like that.Should not have to tell you to be careful doing it as they can come out fast.

 

[GateKeeper]

Ya I kinda figured they might shoot out, or not at all.....

I think once I have all the lines off the bike, I will just go the Rennsport and have them make the same as what I have, and I was going to go with the clear, for a cleaner look, the red would be great if I do the bike with the red color I was thinking of...

 

[cowboyup3371]

Throw some Penetrating fluid in there, tighten them into a vise, and start cranking away on them.

 

[GateKeeper]

Well not much done today....had about an hour, and son was at work, so I didn't want to do too much without him, I think he is getting into it, so I might as well let him do as much as he can....

So basically I removed the front and rear brake lines, master cylinders, and not much else....

Well I had a nice cold beer, afterwards..........

I really do hope I remember on how to put all this stuff back onto the bike......

This is my only big concern, I am not a bike builder, and I do hope it goes back and is the same only better once it's all together,,,,,and let's not even mention parts left over.......

It looks like it will be a tear down to the bare frame, we just keep on removing bits and pieces, soon it will be just a bag of parts...........well a few box's as well

 

[Smokinapankake]

They go back together pretty easy.
Looks like you have it well in hand.

Just don't forget to put in NEW crush washers when you reinstall your brakes. Your old ones may look fine but for the minimal cost that new ones are, you're money ahead to just replace them.

If you want to have a better look at the piston bores in your calipers you can take the two allen head bolts out and split the caliper. This will also give better access to replace piston seals and dust boots and facilitate cleaning out all the old brown Jell-O that used to be brake fluid. And if you're going to paint them, well..... It's alot easier to mask off if you have access.

I like to plug the threaded holes with expandable foam earplugs.

 

[SVSooke]

I like to plug the threaded holes with expandable foam earplugs.

Now that is a great idea!Thanks!

 

[randaroo]

Probly all said already but...

Probly all said already but...

i didn;t read the whole post but...
i removed dents in the tank with a piece of metal stock and lead solder, grabed the stock with vice grips and whacked them with the mini sledge, pop, done like dishes, aaaand some lead left to form instaed of mud.
Carbs were just gunked up from sitting around, if they don't leak don't seperate them jusy pop the top and bottom and do the passeges and pull the jets, mine were damaged from old fuel and repplaced for about 2 bucks apiece. The stock box and filter helps cut that sucking noise if yer at all concerned.
The plstics were eisily coated with fusion paint then primed and painted with the rest of the parts.
The aluminum clear coat was easily stripped with paint stripper, wet sanded out the dings 400, 600, 1000, 1500 then 2000 and then aluminum wheel polish, sparkles.

 

[GateKeeper]

Clutch cable removal

Clutch cable removal

So I think I know this but want to make sure....

To remove the clutch cable from here

I need to remove this entire cover, the little one as well, as well as the shift lever, which I will mark it's current position

and once I remove this larger cover, will anything leak out, or is it dry, and will it require a new gasket ? if the old one is not damaged and if there even is one ?

Thanks

 

[cowboyup3371]

Yep and there's no gasket there nor will anything leak out (OR AT LEAST BETTER NOT) but you will want to pay attention to how the shift lever is situated now (saves a lot of headache later) as well as the spring inside.

While you are in there, look over the seal around the clutch pushrod as well as the countershaft seal to ensure they aren't leaking. If so, fix them now while you have it apart. Also, if you need to change your sprockets/chain it's a good time to start.

 

[GateKeeper]

Thanks cowboyup3371.....

It's all coming apart, and all to be checked, just didn't want a flood of fluids all over the floor, I have taken the throttle side off of the bars and the clutch side as well, just this cable is left for now.

I will mark the shift lever, and the spring, will take pictures of the inside....

I guess at this point I can take the sprocket off to take the chain off, or do I remove the connecting link on the chain to take it off at any time that I need ?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Loosen the front sprocket nut before taking the chain apart so you can use the rear brake while doing it (will need a second person for it) with a breaker bar of air ratchet. Then remove the clip, take the chain off, and remove both the front and rear sprockets.

 

[GateKeeper]

Thanks for the tip....tips.....

It's off and yukkkkkk, another area that needs a good washing down

so here it is, and how it all looks

other than dirty it all seems to be in good shape ?


I still have the bucket of Pine Sol in the backyard, maybe I let the cover sit in it for a little while......or will it kill the aluminum ? I don't think it will, it has to be polished anyways, so it might be OK for an hour or so...

 

[cowboyup3371]

Just use some Simple Green, warm water, and a good brush. Looks like you might have an oil leak in there some place though so clean it up real good and pay attention as you run it over the next few weeks.

 

[GateKeeper]

It's a long way from running....that is for sure, she is being stripped down to the frame, all will be redone and cleaned and then put back together...

Well I think I might know the cause of the leak, could be from here, I think this is the gear indicator interface.

and when I undid the 2 screws holding it in place, the oil just started coming out...

it's OK, had to come out anyways, at one end or another....LOL

found this as well, guess it activates the light on the dash so you know the kick stand is up

And the only thing I really did was remove the cam chain tensioner, and the sprocket, now about the sprocket, once I bent the ear back up on that large washer I was able to remove the nut no problem, it was actually kinda loose, and it came off easy, didn't hold the brake, or have it in gear, would this be normal ?

the nice and shiny cam chain tensioner

 

[cowboyup3371]

No not normal and very dangerous in my opinion as although that washer is supposed to keep the nut from moving, it should be tightened properly since it could allow the sprockets to move around on you. You'll want to torque that back down to spec and then fold over the tabs on the locking washer.

 

[GateKeeper]

Thanks....it was not going to fall off or anything like that, but I am glad I found this issue, now when it goes back together, as you say it can be torqued to spec and it will be safe...

 

[Flyboy]

Scott is right, it is not normal and comes from the nut not being torqued properly, usually when someone does a chain and sprocket replacment on thier own with no one to hold the rear brake, they dump it into gear, but it will only hold it so much before it turns the motor over.
Don't know why they didn't just put a left hand thread on it so it tightens with rotation instead of loosening?
Here is a little tip for you, if you find yourelf having to tighten it on your own with no one to hold the back brake;
your rear brake lever has a little screw and lock nut that you can use to adjust the free play, loosen the lock nut, stomp on the brake as hard as you can, while you are holding it down, screw the set screw out to hold the lever there.....brakes locked, torque to your hearts content.
You can also put a piece of wood like a 2X4 through the wheel to lock up against the swing arm.