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1983_GS750E - Rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter GateKeeper
  • Start date Start date
hey gk where does the battery negative terminal bolt to? frame, motor,?it doesnt say in the manual
 
hey gk where does the battery negative terminal bolt to? frame, motor,?it doesnt say in the manual

I never use that grounding point, too much weather and corrosion going on down there, I like to make/route a new cable directly to one of the starter mounting legs directly back to the neg post. I may use the original back of motor location to add a frame to engine ground.
 
You are correct, I think this is where it goes ? The one hole I forgot to cover up a bit, now I will have to clean it out and get rid of the paint, so it has a good ground.

P1080694_1.jpg


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That wire can go on any bolt to the engine. I used the one going into my sprocket cover. It was closer to the battery box. Just as long as the engine gets a good ground. IF you don't ground out the engine well your starter will not work, since it uses the engine block as its ground. Lets just say I am very familiar with this issue.

Paul
 
so, all that being said about needing a good ground and such....

and with all the new paint, on the frame, engine, etc......

does the engine somehow need to be grounded somehow with the frame as well, do I need to clean off any paint of of any of the bolts and connection points, other than where I have the ground wire going from engine to the negative side of the battery directly,,,,or is that the best for a ground ?

basically what if anything do I need to make sure is clean and grounded ?

Thanks

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The engine isn't rubber mounted, so it's grounded to the frame pretty well with it's mounting points, but I always add a battery to frame, to engine(at the starter leg) and directly to the RR. Cuts down on a lot of resistance, more the merrier.
 
Cool....

but since the frame is painted, engine painted, all mounting points probably have paint on them, will it still be grounded properly ?

maybe I will add a few ground straps in strategic places.....just to be sure

Thanks
 
Cool....

but since the frame is painted, engine painted, all mounting points probably have paint on them, will it still be grounded properly ?

maybe I will add a few ground straps in strategic places.....just to be sure

Thanks

Add a few to be on the safe side, use heavy gauge wire like what is used coming from the battery normally, and remove any paint where the connector makes contact.
 
Quick question....

Where can I get one of these arms, circled in red ?

the one pictured is from a 1983 GS1150ES are these things interchangeable, and go from one model to another, and would one be suitable on my bike 83 GS750E

Thanks

arm.jpg




Maybe I can fabricate one on my own ?


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I don't think its interchangeable but don't know for certain. What you could do is drill lightening holes in your stocker. Maybe go large, small,large, small etc down the length. I've seen that done.

You could also get a chunk of aluminum bar stock (Metal Supermarkets) and bodge something up, even with hand tools. Better yet, if you have access to a milling machine ( or flow jet like those OCR twits) or know someone that does, it may be possible to have something really fancy done up. As I keep saying, "all it takes is money".

Hey, you're getting off track again brother........eyes on the prize.......tarty stuff later! :)

cheers,
Spyug
 
Thanks....

It's when I can't do what I need to do, or want to do, then I start thinking about things like this, gotta keep the mind going....

Well I am left with out a car tomorrow, so I have the whole morning to early afternoon to work on the bike, going to button up what I can, brake lines for sure, oil in the shocks, maybe the headlight as well, and get ready for company, and when they arrive see if I can talk my buddy to help me muscle in the engine.....to where it needs to be, he is bringing a jack, and I have one, maybe we can get this done....

I will keep you all posted....
 
yea gk i had it wrong at first "negative wire", it had been 3 yrs since tear down, and i couldnt remember where it went, i guessed right, then found a pic in my manual, i finally have power at the starter switch, now rear tail bulb is blown, and side stand light still doesnt go out, im not sure if its cause of the bulb, "open circuit" or not ? also working on the new t signals i went with short nice looking ones
i also need a different rear brake arm, since i went 130 i have really no room between the tire,and am wondering about rub, on corners:confused::confused: lol

one more issue, new avon front tire isnt holding air:mad: the rim had red stuff in it? 'balancing liquid?, i never seen red fix a flat:confused:
 
Today....what a waste....

Today....what a waste....

So today, I had the morning to my self, everyone was gone out or to work, and I thought I would get a whole lot done on the bike, well after about 6 hours of mucking around, I really don't have a whole lot to show, it's amazing how the time goes, and almost nothing got done, it's like I almost did nothing but sit in the garage and stare at one part of the bike or another.

I left the intake boots in oil last night to try and soften them up, they are in good condition but I think a bit stiff, well the oil bath did nothing, still hard, and trying to get them onto the carbs was a real pain, I really don't know how I am going to get the carbs on once the boots are in place first, I could barely push them on outside of the bike and boots and carbs in my hands....so I gave up removed them from the carbs and put them on the engine, applied anti seize and put the boots on, will struggle with this business latter.

So then I decided to do the stainless steel bolts I ordered from Z1, just get each and every bolt in place, so I proceeded, and see that the kit has 69 items in it, and I have a total of 28 bolts that I want to need to replace well were the hell do the other friggen bolts go to.....I was assured this kit is for my bike, Set #660, ya right, have extra bolts left over, and 5 that I am missing so I used 5mm shorter ones until I go and buy the right length, and short one 50 mm as well, right now only one is in as the kit only had one....so much for that

so I installed the oil lines from the top of the engine down to the bottom, installed the starter, and routed the wires from the stator, starter, and the thing there just in front of the cam chain tensioner, at least that got done.

moved on to the brake system, and put in all the crush washers, got some really nice copper ones, these came with the SS brake lines, so I figured lets use them, just throws in a bit of pizzazz, like it really matters, but hey it's done, didn't add the brake fluid as I have company coming, but fronts and rear brakes are ready for fluid....almost done....

All in all, sweat F A done today, at least I think so, hopefully next time, I get into the garage more will be done......engine back into the frame is the goal.....

and now for a few pics....

this is the set from Z1, WOW how wrong can it get, actually everything I ordered from them was wrong, total waste of money and time, spark plug caps were too small, exhaust gaskets were wrong, even the bolt kit is wrong,,,ohhh well
P1080731.jpg




The wires are in place, as well as the oil lines
P1080733.jpg



Some nice copper crush washers
P1080743.jpg


P1080746.jpg


P1080749.jpg



These things are stiff, some give to them but hard, really don't know how pliable they should be, so I really don't know, how I am going to get the carbs back into here...
P1080756.jpg



The money shot for today.....
P1080759.jpg



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As long as the intakes aren't cracked and your going to use them, here's what I did on the last GS1100 I had that I sold, I used a little motor oil in the beginning of the boots, place a mini cargo strap around the carbs and around the front of the frame, lightly ratchet them and hand guide them in at the same time, popped in pretty easy, and they were real stiff, just be sure they go in evenly, a second set of hands is helpful, but I manged on my own.

Looking real nice:clap:, Can't wait till next winter when I do the same to my engine....wait a sec, did I just say I can't wait for next winter???:eek: You better delete this thread before this becomes contagious:-s
 
GK, what is it with you and bolts?!? Sorry you had such trouble. It will all melt away on the first ride.
 
As long as the intakes aren't cracked and your going to use them, here's what I did on the last GS1100 I had that I sold, I used a little motor oil in the beginning of the boots, place a mini cargo strap around the carbs and around the front of the frame, lightly ratchet them and hand guide them in at the same time, popped in pretty easy, and they were real stiff, just be sure they go in evenly, a second set of hands is helpful, but I manged on my own.

Looking real nice:clap:, Can't wait till next winter when I do the same to my engine....wait a sec, did I just say I can't wait for next winter???:eek: You better delete this thread before this becomes contagious:-s

Don't even talk about winter, we just go over it, well almost, gonna be cold again tonight...brrrrr

Thanks for the tip on the strap, another good way to get them in.....

GK, what is it with you and bolts?!? Sorry you had such trouble. It will all melt away on the first ride.

Really,,,,,unless I buy them myself, I either get too many or not enough....fortunately the kit had more than I need, but short on a few only, easy enough to get them locally, I hope....

And your right, first ride, and I will forget all about these little annoyances....

You know they had another kit, smaller in size, it probably would have been the right one....who knows.....

.
 
try a lil oil on the carbs then slide them in,if its still hard- they are 24.00 each,and it is well worth it, there the same as the 700, you might find them cheaper on ebay not sure, but "maybe boil some oil and soak them? , you really need a new o ring in there as well, or they will suck air! and that means more cab frustration:mad:,and taking them off again, sorry but its a nice job so far why get in a hurry, youll be happier just a lil suggestion :)

ebay has 2, but www.cyclepartsnation.com can get all and o rings
 
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That's another hundred bucks I really don't want to spend, they are just a bit stiff, even after soaking in oil overnight, perhaps I should have left them soaking a bit longer, O rings are brand new, part of the rebuild and set of rings that were ordered for the carbs, as well as the new SS bolts, so I am good there.

I don't know how pliable they should be, so I am not sure if mine are too stiff, or just right, how much should I be able to squish them is a better question

Thanks for the suggestions, it's easy to forget the little things sometimes, sometimes even the big things....LOL

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Well it doesn't look like a lot but you did get quite a bit sorted on the road to a rideable bike and that's what counts.

A bit like my day. A 3 hour project ( fork seals) took me from 10 am to 5.00 pm and they are not yet back on the bike. A spot of bother getting them apart as my damper rod holder(s) didn't fit and I stooged around making another "tool". Once apart,cleaned and rebuilt they wouldn't go back together again as I couldn't get the bolt to grab the damper rod again. Oh well its pretty much done now.

As far as your carb boots not to fear, they respond well to liberal doses of heat. Get yourself the indespensible electric paint stripper (or the wife's hairdryer) and get them toasty. they will take a lot of heat but if they start smoking that's a bit too much :). Just before popping the carbs in give them a shot of WD, white grease, silicone spray or whatever slippery stuff you have, apply said ratchet strap and pop those suckers in. No fuss no muss.

To bad about the bolt set but that's puppy **** in the scheme of things (but annoying at the time I know).

Pretty soon you'll have her humming again.

Cheers,
Spyug

PS I hope you got the mill back in the frame before you and your pal got into the poteen and cheroots :)
 
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