G
Guest
Guest
Cool, I have wheels like that but they're for a full sized drill not a Dremel. Would definitely be easier to work with on a Dremel though!
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
L
loud et
Guest
This is what I use in my dremel....not sure if you could find them at a place like Hare and Forbes or similar.
Did you mean Harbor Freight? Lol
That's the same set I got from Harbor Freight but mine are stainless steel. They're also excellent for polishing carburetors and getting in all the nooks and crannies. Wear safety glasses though because those hare fine wires will shoot out and stick in your skin. They don't hurt but you certainly don't want one in the eye.
B
bikemtn
Guest
Yes Harbor Freight for me too and second the safety glasses. My work shirt will have some of those hairs stuck in it after I've worked with these for a while. I don't know where you would find these in Australia?
Hare and Forbes is in Australia where Pete lives. Based on their website, they look to be a couple of steps above Harbor Freight
L
loud et
Guest
Ohhh, so it's the Sears Craftsman of Australia. Lol
G
Guest
Guest
Wow we do have a Hare & Forbes, never knew that! 
Bit of an inconvenient location for me, but there are a few other alternatives I should be able to get those wheels from if necessary.
Bit of an inconvenient location for me, but there are a few other alternatives I should be able to get those wheels from if necessary.
G
Guest
Guest
Started working out the tray for under the seat last night with a view to mounting the electrics under there as well as a small lithium battery in the tail.
Sat the rear wheel up so I can get the shock in pretty much the full travel position to work out how much room I have to play with. Not a huge amount but enough.
I'm working on the top of the tyre being about level with the top of the frame rails but am allowing for the bump stop to compress a bit as well.
If I use the entire stock tail light then I think I'll be struggling to squeeze a battery in the tail:
For the moment I just mocked up some cardboard, just need to work out whether that will bend down in front of the rear tyre or if I'll take it forward to the tank and add something else in front of the tyre.
So far I'm leaning towards bringing that same piece down in front of the tyre and actually making a small battery tray under the front of the seat, leaving the tail for some tools instead.
Another fella on the KA forum is doing something with LED's and the stock tail light lense, so I think I need to see what he's doing first. Might give me the room I need.
I do need to get a hold of some steel or aluminium sheet though to make the tray. 1.6mm should do nicely.
Sat the rear wheel up so I can get the shock in pretty much the full travel position to work out how much room I have to play with. Not a huge amount but enough.
I'm working on the top of the tyre being about level with the top of the frame rails but am allowing for the bump stop to compress a bit as well.
If I use the entire stock tail light then I think I'll be struggling to squeeze a battery in the tail:
For the moment I just mocked up some cardboard, just need to work out whether that will bend down in front of the rear tyre or if I'll take it forward to the tank and add something else in front of the tyre.
So far I'm leaning towards bringing that same piece down in front of the tyre and actually making a small battery tray under the front of the seat, leaving the tail for some tools instead.
Another fella on the KA forum is doing something with LED's and the stock tail light lense, so I think I need to see what he's doing first. Might give me the room I need.
I do need to get a hold of some steel or aluminium sheet though to make the tray. 1.6mm should do nicely.
If you do decide to go the led route don't make the same mistake that I did. I bought 2 cheap Chinese led boards that together filled the standard rear lens. One board was twice the size of the other to act as the brake light and the smaller one to act as rear light. Wow, aren't they bright! Definitely not legal as I was lighting up behind me almost as much as in front. I had to mess around soldering a smaller board for each and that took as much time as making up the rest of the thing. In retrospect I should have just bought some smaller replacement boards as they're as cheap as chips but I'm too tight to chuck away stuff I just bought.
G
Guest
Guest
HH, yep gotta be careful with those LED's! Especially here where they'll happily pull you over for the slightest of things not "ADR approved"... 
Hahahaha yep Charlie they're my safety thongs! Perfect for all sorts of things including welding and grinding... and most definitely not winter! Sweating my a&^e off in the shed at night, really need to get a pedestal fan in there actually...
While there are more details to work out yet, I reckon I've pretty much got the under seat tray sorted and it will form the inner rear mudguard as well. The front may need to go a little lower and I have notched it to clear the chain guard too.
Bit hard to see in the photo but there is plenty of clearance:
And again a bit hard to see but there's still a fair bit of room under the seat above the tray, I just stuck the steel ruler in there as a reference:
Then I mocked up a tray to go in front of that which is likely where the battery will end up. I had a quick look on the Shorai site and they list the thinnest battery with 270CCA as being 66mm wide, so I made the tray 75mm deep.
I'll have to move it forwards of those two mounting points at the rear as it touches on the inner rear guard where it is, and that will also let me use those as mounting points for the tray. I can also likely use the side cover mounts for the front of the tray as well.
Even being 75mm deep once it's painted a suitable colour it shouldn't stick out like a sore thumb either.
Only catch really is I'm not sure when I'll get time to hunt down some suitable steel or aluminium at present.
The two key details to work out yet are the tail light mounting and rear mudguard.
If I use the stock tail light then it's a simple matter of making the tray suit the mounting of it, but then I lose a whole lot of space in the tail. If I can figure out a way to use the stock lense with much shorter internals and LED's then that gives me a whole lot more room, just not sure on the difficulties there with what's available and of course the good ol' ADR crap. I'm really keen to keep it looking stock though.
As for the mudguard, that's a different story. I have a couple of ideas in mind, just have to do some mock ups too see which looks ok and which looks plain stupid.
Hahahaha yep Charlie they're my safety thongs! Perfect for all sorts of things including welding and grinding... and most definitely not winter! Sweating my a&^e off in the shed at night, really need to get a pedestal fan in there actually...
While there are more details to work out yet, I reckon I've pretty much got the under seat tray sorted and it will form the inner rear mudguard as well. The front may need to go a little lower and I have notched it to clear the chain guard too.
Bit hard to see in the photo but there is plenty of clearance:
And again a bit hard to see but there's still a fair bit of room under the seat above the tray, I just stuck the steel ruler in there as a reference:
Then I mocked up a tray to go in front of that which is likely where the battery will end up. I had a quick look on the Shorai site and they list the thinnest battery with 270CCA as being 66mm wide, so I made the tray 75mm deep.
I'll have to move it forwards of those two mounting points at the rear as it touches on the inner rear guard where it is, and that will also let me use those as mounting points for the tray. I can also likely use the side cover mounts for the front of the tray as well.
Even being 75mm deep once it's painted a suitable colour it shouldn't stick out like a sore thumb either.
Only catch really is I'm not sure when I'll get time to hunt down some suitable steel or aluminium at present.
The two key details to work out yet are the tail light mounting and rear mudguard.
If I use the stock tail light then it's a simple matter of making the tray suit the mounting of it, but then I lose a whole lot of space in the tail. If I can figure out a way to use the stock lense with much shorter internals and LED's then that gives me a whole lot more room, just not sure on the difficulties there with what's available and of course the good ol' ADR crap. I'm really keen to keep it looking stock though.
As for the mudguard, that's a different story. I have a couple of ideas in mind, just have to do some mock ups too see which looks ok and which looks plain stupid.
HH, yep gotta be careful with those LED's! Especially here where they'll happily pull you over for the slightest of things not "ADR approved"...
Hahahaha yep Charlie they're my safety thongs! Perfect for all sorts of things including welding and grinding... and most definitely not winter! Sweating my a&^e off in the shed at night, really need to get a pedestal fan in there actually...
Ha! I know so well what you mean, sometimes its a toss up whether to go barefoot when welding for me because when the hot molten sparks get between your thong (flipflops for us) and foot you cant get them off no matter how much you hop.
G
Guest
Guest
Hahaha yes indeed!!! I know that feeling... and doing the dance of the angle grinder with the cut off wheel because you managed to cut directly over where you're standing and all those lovely warm toasty bits of metal are now coating your feet...
G
Guest
Guest
Haha yep, only way to go!!!
Hi Pete love your new build. Been away for awhile, but had a bit of an urge to do some more fine tuning cosmetically on the bikes but hit a hurdle. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?236873-My-zinc-parts-go-missing&referrerid=27247
Keep up the good work...............
Keep up the good work...............
G
Guest
Guest
Cheers mate, good to see you're back! Bugger on that parts mix up, that really sucks! There's gotta be another fella out there with a dual drum set up that hasn't opened his box of bits up yet... when he does he'll likewise be scratching his head...
I picked up some 5mm steel yesterday so I can make the 7/11 adapter engine brackets, still gotta decide on steel or aluminium for the under tray though.
I picked up some 5mm steel yesterday so I can make the 7/11 adapter engine brackets, still gotta decide on steel or aluminium for the under tray though.
G
Guest
Guest
I did revisit things last night and I think now this should work out well.
I decided to split the under tray/inner guard into two parts as just getting the cardboard in/out was tricky in one piece, so once it's aluminium I think it would be nigh on impossible. I'll have an overlap of 20mm to allow me to screw the pieces together to prevent rattling/vibration.
I also took a tip on board and made allowance for the battery to stand upright under the seat plate. I think there should be enough room to get a battery in/out without having to remove the seat plate too.
This also allows me to make use of three existing mounting points already on the frame... the two at the rear and one on that rail under the front of the tray. Although I may find a better option for the rear mounts, maybe a couple of loops up and over the rails for support and just use those frame mounts to hold it in position rather than take the weight of all the electrical bits and pieces.
It's not all that visible once everything's in place either.
I think I can bolt on an upright piece of steel or aluminium in here to mount some LED's like another fella is doing and have the stock lens go over the top too.
At this point I'm thinking the fuse box, ignitor, indicator and starter relays, and probably a coil relay will go in the front tray behind the battery box and the rear tray in front of the tail light will be the place for tools. That should allow room to carry a spare clutch cable under the seat.
Seeing as I'll likely be going with a huge SH775 R/R again I'll probably mount it under the front tray so it can get some air flow.
I'll have to dig out all my electrical bits and pieces for a test fit.
And I've traced out a pair of 7/11 engine mounts ready to start cutting.
I decided to split the under tray/inner guard into two parts as just getting the cardboard in/out was tricky in one piece, so once it's aluminium I think it would be nigh on impossible. I'll have an overlap of 20mm to allow me to screw the pieces together to prevent rattling/vibration.
I also took a tip on board and made allowance for the battery to stand upright under the seat plate. I think there should be enough room to get a battery in/out without having to remove the seat plate too.
This also allows me to make use of three existing mounting points already on the frame... the two at the rear and one on that rail under the front of the tray. Although I may find a better option for the rear mounts, maybe a couple of loops up and over the rails for support and just use those frame mounts to hold it in position rather than take the weight of all the electrical bits and pieces.
It's not all that visible once everything's in place either.
I think I can bolt on an upright piece of steel or aluminium in here to mount some LED's like another fella is doing and have the stock lens go over the top too.
At this point I'm thinking the fuse box, ignitor, indicator and starter relays, and probably a coil relay will go in the front tray behind the battery box and the rear tray in front of the tail light will be the place for tools. That should allow room to carry a spare clutch cable under the seat.
Seeing as I'll likely be going with a huge SH775 R/R again I'll probably mount it under the front tray so it can get some air flow.
I'll have to dig out all my electrical bits and pieces for a test fit.
And I've traced out a pair of 7/11 engine mounts ready to start cutting.
G
Guest
Guest
Cheers mate! The answer is actually neither
Basically this is the "Pete" touch to the Kat... I want it to be a bit cleaner in the centre area rather than having the battery and electrics tray there, and I like to have room to carry some tools and a spare clutch cable as well. I'm also not a huge fan of the stock rear mudguard although that's something I haven't figured out yet as nothing else seems right either...
I have a stock battery box here and the inner guard etc. can still be gotten for reasonable prices second hand, I'm just not keen on them and as this is pretty much a DIY Kat I feel there's lots of freedom to customise bits and pieces while staying true to the lines of the Kat.
Last night I think I figured out the tail light, although to be sure I'll have to get my hands on some LED's first of course.
I traced out the lense shape onto some cardboard and shortened the rear of the tray 10mm so it would fit, with the tray ending up like this:
It seems to still sit in quite nicely but I'll need to have a closer look at someone's Kat to be sure I've got the position right.
And that should leave lots of room for tools and a spare clutch cable:
I have some 2.5mm thick aluminium here and I'll probably use that for mounting the lense and that way I can drill and tap some mounting holes for it. I just need to remember to make it a little larger than the outside of the lense itself so I can put the rubber weather strip under the lense as well to keep any moisture out.
Basically this is the "Pete" touch to the Kat... I want it to be a bit cleaner in the centre area rather than having the battery and electrics tray there, and I like to have room to carry some tools and a spare clutch cable as well. I'm also not a huge fan of the stock rear mudguard although that's something I haven't figured out yet as nothing else seems right either...
I have a stock battery box here and the inner guard etc. can still be gotten for reasonable prices second hand, I'm just not keen on them and as this is pretty much a DIY Kat I feel there's lots of freedom to customise bits and pieces while staying true to the lines of the Kat.
Last night I think I figured out the tail light, although to be sure I'll have to get my hands on some LED's first of course.
I traced out the lense shape onto some cardboard and shortened the rear of the tray 10mm so it would fit, with the tray ending up like this:
It seems to still sit in quite nicely but I'll need to have a closer look at someone's Kat to be sure I've got the position right.
And that should leave lots of room for tools and a spare clutch cable:
I have some 2.5mm thick aluminium here and I'll probably use that for mounting the lense and that way I can drill and tap some mounting holes for it. I just need to remember to make it a little larger than the outside of the lense itself so I can put the rubber weather strip under the lense as well to keep any moisture out.
