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450T Runs well then sputters out after 20 miles

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phil
  • Start date Start date
The vacuum fitting on mine isn't loose as such but does pull out with little effort, and in fact it usually comes out if I'm trying to disconnect the vacuum line.

It does sound like yours is looser though so try the solder trick.

Replacing the petcock sounds like a good idea, mine was like that after sitting during the rebuild and it turns out the metal disk inside was in several pieces so I ordered a new one from Boulevard.
 
I just placed the order for the petcock with Boulevard. Hopefully it doesn't take too long to arrive. Once I get home I will try the solder trick and see if it cures the issue. If not than the bike will just have to be parked until the petcock arrives.

The vacuum fitting on mine isn't loose as such but does pull out with little effort, and in fact it usually comes out if I'm trying to disconnect the vacuum line.

It does sound like yours is looser though so try the solder trick.

Replacing the petcock sounds like a good idea, mine was like that after sitting during the rebuild and it turns out the metal disk inside was in several pieces so I ordered a new one from Boulevard.
 
While you're waiting for petcock, go to hardware store and pick up a pair of 1/4 inch " sealing washers"- these go under mounting bolts -don't try to reuse old ones. I got mine ( $.33 each) at Ace in Gorham .
New to bikes??? avoid city drivers- head to suburbs to improve odds. First weeks are critical, so be safe!
 
I live pretty close to the Falmouth line so I have been attempting to ride in Falmouth and Cumberland which was going pretty well until the bike started acting up. I also did the Basic Rider Course at the Harley dealership in Hampton, NH. I have to admit it makes me wish I had a newer bike. It's tough to be confident when you are not entire confident of the machine under you.

I attempted the soldering but I have been having a hard time getting it to stick in thin layer. I'll give what I managed to do a shot tomorrow after work. I didn't realize the washers would be an issue or I would have just ordered the OEM ones when I ordered the petcock.


While you're waiting for petcock, go to hardware store and pick up a pair of 1/4 inch " sealing washers"- these go under mounting bolts -don't try to reuse old ones. I got mine ( $.33 each) at Ace in Gorham .
New to bikes??? avoid city drivers- head to suburbs to improve odds. First weeks are critical, so be safe!
 
I thought later that getting enough heat to get solder to run might be tough- you need a propane torch or similar, have any plumbing friends?? If no luck, try teflon thread tape. Most hardware stores would have the sealing washers- you just have to find where they are in store!
That's a good area to learn in. Once you get these maintenance issues sorted out , the bike will treat you right.
 
How tight does the metal fitting that the vacuum hose attaches to the side of the carb fit?

Mine fits quite loosely. It will just pull out from the carb with basically zero effort. I can't imagine that is how it should be fitting.

Anyone have any ideas on how to get it to fit tightly?

Simply tap it in a wee bit with a small hammer or such. the fitting is a TAPERED fit inside the petcock itself.
 
I think I will try the Teflon tape as I already have some at home and have no plumber friends or propane torch. Any thoughts on some sort of adhesive like Locktite Red RTV high temp silicone adhesive?

In the carb rebuild guide for these in BassCliff's site he mentioned pulling that peice out with pliars. I don't remember having to do that at all. I always thought it was weird that it required zero effort to remove it.

I thought later that getting enough heat to get solder to run might be tough- you need a propane torch or similar, have any plumbing friends?? If no luck, try teflon thread tape. Most hardware stores would have the sealing washers- you just have to find where they are in store!
That's a good area to learn in. Once you get these maintenance issues sorted out , the bike will treat you right.
 
I think I will try the Teflon tape as I already have some at home and have no plumber friends or propane torch. Any thoughts on some sort of adhesive like Locktite Red RTV high temp silicone adhesive?

In the carb rebuild guide for these in BassCliff's site he mentioned pulling that peice out with pliars. I don't remember having to do that at all. I always thought it was weird that it required zero effort to remove it.

Just tap it in like barnbiketom says.
It works.
 
It doesn't seem to work for mine. It just slides all the way in to the side of the carb with zero effort. Though I assumed thats how it was supposed to have work. I guess it somehow either shrank just enough over the years or something did something to it. Personally, I am not sure why it was designed to be removable in the first place.

Just tap it in like barnbiketom says.
It works.
 
7010007_elc_380112_pri_larg.jpg


Thoughts ?
 
It doesn't seem to work for mine. It just slides all the way in to the side of the carb with zero effort. Though I assumed thats how it was supposed to have work. I guess it somehow either shrank just enough over the years or something did something to it. Personally, I am not sure why it was designed to be removable in the first place.

We were talking about the pipe on the petcock....

Where exactly on the carburetor are you trying to put this fuel line in?
Should be a T between the carburetor bodies?
 
I just put a drop of green lok tite on one of mine and tapped it in.
It had been loose for many years and all that I did in the past was tap it in with a soft faced hammer. It never leaked.
I finally fixed it right a few years back.

Eric
 
We are talking about the vacuum line that runs from the petcock to the carb. On the gs450, the line attaches to a metal piece that slides into the side of the carb. That piece should slide in tightly, mine is extremely loose and just falls out when the bike is actually ridden.

I replaced the fuel line when I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs. The T was in good shape so I reused it. Unfortunately, I neglected to change the vacuum line, it appeared to be in decent shape, and didn't realize the issue of having such a loose connection to the carb body for the vacuum line.


We were talking about the pipe on the petcock....

Where exactly on the carburetor are you trying to put this fuel line in?
Should be a T between the carburetor bodies?
 
I think I will go this route and try the locktite. I'll pick some up and a new piece of line when I get out of work. I have a feeling between that and replacing the petcock it might solve the problem.

Hopefully that will get me closer to the realiable, in good shape, bike it appeared to be when I bought it in the fall. It's not like I can complain, I paid $650 for it and the new petcock will be by far the most expensive item I have purchased for it so far.

It's been a very good learning experiance, and its fun to amaze my friends who wouldn't even attempt to change the oil in their own bikes.

I just put a drop of green lok tite on one of mine and tapped it in.
It had been loose for many years and all that I did in the past was tap it in with a soft faced hammer. It never leaked.
I finally fixed it right a few years back.

Eric
 
Hopefully that will get me closer to the realiable, in good shape, bike it appeared to be when I bought it in the fall. It's not like I can complain, I paid $650 for it and the new petcock will be by far the most expensive item I have purchased for it so far.

.
Closer yes, but have no fear- chances are good other stuff (see Basscliff's) needs loving (and your money). Have you checked tires for date of birth? four digit code? ten year old tires are not good candidates for that run to Freeport !
 
The vacuum issue is solved and it's running quite well. As far as the tires, I haven't checked the date code on them, but I have a feeling that I should invest in a new front tire in the near future based on how it looks. The rear looks much newer and in pretty good shape.

The front brakes squeak some, though it seems to stop well. I am not sure whats up with them. There appears to be a decent amount of pad left.



Closer yes, but have no fear- chances are good other stuff (see Basscliff's) needs loving (and your money). Have you checked tires for date of birth? four digit code? ten year old tires are not good candidates for that run to Freeport !
 
Since you brought up tires, where do you buy them and get the installed around here? I see there are many places online to purchase, but I don't have any interest in attempting to install and balance them.

Closer yes, but have no fear- chances are good other stuff (see Basscliff's) needs loving (and your money). Have you checked tires for date of birth? four digit code? ten year old tires are not good candidates for that run to Freeport !
 
The front brakes squeak some, though it seems to stop well. I am not sure whats up with them. There appears to be a decent amount of pad left.

Put some anti squeal between the pad and caliper, and between pad and piston.

That should stop the squealing.
 
Since you brought up tires, where do you buy them and get the installed around here? I see there are many places online to purchase, but I don't have any interest in attempting to install and balance them.
I hesitate to suggest anyone that I haven't dealt with, but you might try these guys in New Gloucester (link below)- from some of their previous ads, they "seem" to be OK with old critters, but who knows. Lots of folks probably buy tires online and take to shop. I'm not familiar with street tires that much as I rode mostly in dirt and still haven't needed new ones yet for my 650. Members here will have good suggestions about tires.
Best to pull rear tire (either you or someone) and inspect drum brake when you replace front if not before- new riders tend to use rear brake alot.

http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/3018770306.html
 
Yeah I saw this ad. I'll order a tire online and give them a shot.

I also found a guy in Portland that does work on older bikes. It seems that the guys who work on older bikes like to hide in the shadows, as he also does ads on craigslist and is just word of mouth mostly. He helped me with my front fork tubes, mostly because I didn't have all the right tools. He was very nice, seemed very knowledgable and only charged me $20. He doesn't do tires though.

Yeah I have given some thought to the rear drum. It's stopping strongly, with no noise or any issues and is not at the wear indicator, but at some point though this season I will pull it and check it out.

Now that it seems as though it is running well and isn't showing an overwhelming number of issues, I feel a little more comfortable spending some money to do the rest of the needed items.
 
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