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'81 GS550 Cafe Build

  • Thread starter Thread starter D-Mac
  • Start date Start date
Hehe, funny I worked on my triple clamp today too D-mac. and I found the same thing. That paint must have been baked on because very little came off with the stripper. I applied a very heavy coat the second round, waited for about 10min, then got my little brass brush out and went to town. The brush helped work the stripped into the paint and I got most of it off with that. Then, I took it over to the wire wheel and got the rest and got it nice and shiney. A pic of it is over on my rebuild thread.

Sci85
 
For the triple clamp, use a wire wheel, to get the old paint off, it will make short work of getting it done,,have a look in my build thread to see how mine came out, and that was just on the wire wheel, no polishing done at all.

The rims look great, and the masking is brutal, I spent last night on just the front, polishing and then taping getting it ready for paint as well,,,,,the rear will be done tonight...

Caliper paint sounds good as well, I can't find a matte, only shiny, so I was going to use the appliance enamel paint, now I might go look for satin caliper paint...

Looks like a bunch of us are more or less at the same stages on our builds......

Just keep at it........soon we will be bolting all the good stuff back on, and waiting for the nice weather to get back so we can go out and ride.....
 
Thanks for the advice guys! I picked up a wire wheel a few weeks ago. Looks like it'll be getting some use. I'll try one more coating of stripper and a steel brush first.
 
For the triple clamp, use a wire wheel, to get the old paint off, it will make short work of getting it done,,have a look in my build thread to see how mine came out, and that was just on the wire wheel, no polishing done at all.

The rims look great, and the masking is brutal, I spent last night on just the front, polishing and then taping getting it ready for paint as well,,,,,the rear will be done tonight...

Caliper paint sounds good as well, I can't find a matte, only shiny, so I was going to use the appliance enamel paint, now I might go look for satin caliper paint...

Looks like a bunch of us are more or less at the same stages on our builds......

Just keep at it........soon we will be bolting all the good stuff back on, and waiting for the nice weather to get back so we can go out and ride.....

I've been following your progress. Looking good!
 
BTW, D-mac, I travel to MI pretty regularly. Mostly Detroit area but also up to Grand Rapids some times. I will let you know next time I'm headed up. Maybe we can hook up and do some bench racing.
 
BTW, D-mac, I travel to MI pretty regularly. Mostly Detroit area but also up to Grand Rapids some times. I will let you know next time I'm headed up. Maybe we can hook up and do some bench racing.

Sounds great! Shoot me a message when you're coming up. I live right off I-94 in Albion.
 
You got it. I've been by there once on my way to Benton Harbor. You're out in the middle of nowhere. But it sure is pretty out there in the summer.

Sci85
 
Ok folks, the wheels are FINALLY painted!

I used my fume hood in the lab as a paint booth. It worked great and eliminated the fumes.
63451cca.jpg


Front wheel??ready??aim??.
35bcbc2f.jpg


??fire!
617ea842.jpg


Several coats later, here it is! It looks better in person than the pic would suggest (even better without the camera flash too). I?m happy. As it dried it started to look more even as well.
5b02cd1f.jpg


Considering I?m a painting rookie, it went pretty easy. I took my time and there were no runs in the paint. I put on four coats ? two light and two medium. If I add clear coat, it?ll be after it dries completely and I have a chance to shine up the aluminum first (it?s pretty dull and still needs a hand polish). Then I?ll replace the wheel bearings, reinstall the rotors/sprocket/etc. and change the tires.

Rear wheel being painted.
b4db6bb1.jpg


Rear wheel is done! It came out better than the front.
2ba0387a.jpg


I left the inner hub grey because the original paint was in great shape and it?s hidden by the cush drive anyway.
cb1d677c.jpg


I stored them somewhere nice and safe?.under my desk at work. :D
779c5165.jpg


Tomorrow I?ll likely paint the rotors and shine up a few other parts. I?m thinking I'll rebuild the forks on Friday.
 
Looking good.......and no runs, that is the best....

Only thing I would have suggested is that you did the polishing of the rims first, then the paint, you risk the chance of scuffing the paint job now, or getting polishing compound on the fresh paint, you will just have to be a bit more careful when doing the polish
 
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Nice work there, don't look like no rookie paint job to me, keep up the nice work.
 
Looking good.......and no runs, that is the best....

Only thing I would have suggested is that you did the polishing of the rims first, then the paint, you risk the chance of scuffing the paint job now, or getting polishing compound on the fresh paint, you will just have to be a bit more careful when doing the polish

Yup. I did polish them first using a drill (2 compounds), so I just need to do a little touch up by hand.
 
Ahhhh OK, just a touch up is good, I thought you needed to do a full polish.....

how close to the lip was your masking using the tape, I can still see a bit of my polished lip, not sure if this will cause me an issue when I go to paint, will I be able to get it off, it's about 1 millimeter that is not covered, do I need to get it taped a bit better ? I was thinking of using some wax or a crayon to cover up the exposed polished parts, hopefully preventing paint from sticking to it, would make clean up much easier.
 
Ahhhh OK, just a touch up is good, I thought you needed to do a full polish.....

how close to the lip was your masking using the tape, I can still see a bit of my polished lip, not sure if this will cause me an issue when I go to paint, will I be able to get it off, it's about 1 millimeter that is not covered, do I need to get it taped a bit better ? I was thinking of using some wax or a crayon to cover up the exposed polished parts, hopefully preventing paint from sticking to it, would make clean up much easier.

If it's like mine, the paint should come off if you carefully scrape it off before it dries (within an hour of spraying). That said, I think it's worth the extra time to mask it off as well as you can. Better to spend the extra half-hour now than risk removing too much paint later. Mine wasn't perfect, and I missed a couple of spots on the front wheel, but I tried to cover the shiny parts except where I thought they went a little beyond where they should have. These wheels clearly weren't perfect from the factory, so a good effort will likely be at least as good as what Suzuki did.

I can't say enough good things about the green masking tape (the "automotive" type). It's more expensive, but it sticks well, can be removed and "re-stuck" if needed, and it pulls off great. I will only use this stuff from now on.
 
GK get yourself a roll of 3M 3mm fineline tape and use it for the edges, and mask with normal masking tape back from there.
That stuff goes around curves beautifuly, you can mask really precicly.
 
gonna hit the stores tonight to find this tape, Thanks

and get it a bit closer to that nice and shiny polished edge....
 
Daily update:

I got a few nagging things done today.

First, I put in a big parts order. This included a few brake caliper parts I forgot to order last time, fasteners for the rear brake arm, a bunch of exterior engine fasteners/caps (might as well start getting this stuff now), swingarm bearings/seals etc, steering head bearings and other related things, and sprockets+nuts+washers. Easily my biggest parts order to date. A lot of this won?t get touched until the frame is done, but I don?t want to have to wait weeks to do anything at that point.

This morning I went to the shop where I?m taking motorcycle classes and rebuilt my forks. I used their fork vise and oil leveling contraption to help things along. I replaced the o-rings, washers, seals, dust covers, and snap rings. It didn?t go so well though in that I made pretty much every rookie mistake possible with the first fork (although nothing past the point of no return). Mistakes included: forgetting to put the drain bolt back in before filling the fork (duh!), overfilling a fork badly because the suction on the fork oil leveler syringe was broken (so I thought I hadn?t added enough oil when I had really been adding too much and it just wasn?t sucking any up) and then I accidently pumped the fork, which shot about 100mL of oil all over the place. I almost put the first seal on backwards too. I managed to scuff up a bit of the lower tubes as well. In the end, it got done and nothing leaks.

Finished! (I hope)
d0f07e0d.jpg


Then I picked up a book for the welding course I?m taking starting next week. I had no idea there were so many types of welding! Should be fun and useful. I will need to cut and weld some things on the frame.

Welding textbook. I immediately found myself immersed in the world of stick, MIG, and TIG.
cc705b61.jpg


Back at home I masked off the rotors.

23aa2652.jpg


Then I went back to my ?paint booth? at the office and sprayed on some new black.
I goofed a little on one part (check out the black spoke at 8 o?clock, it ran a bit as I was trying to reach the sides of the rotor spokes).

1969b4d6.jpg


Rear rotor
ba75d6be.jpg


I still have to sort out what to do with the chipped paint on the outside rims of the rotors (I'll either sand it off or repaint it once the inner rotor dries).

Also took this part from the rear wheel??..
db71ad84.jpg


?..and made it look like this?.
6a6c42d6.jpg


COMMENTS NEEDED:

My original plan was to paint the engine with VHT Universal Aluminum (silver color). Now I?m really leaning toward blacking out the engine using VHT Black Oxide, except for new chrome cam covers at the top, OEM (silver/chrome) fasteners, and my bare polished crankcase covers of course. It would look kind of like the engine on this GS.

http://www.thegsresources.com/halloffame/2007/gs_photo_dec_2007.htm

Any thoughts on this idea?
 
i like the idea. except my silver parts not so shiny. I used duplicolor high temp engine paint.

20111224_155349.jpg
 
Lots done, and looks good.......

I took off the chipped paint off of the outside edge of the rotors, if that helps any...

I might try to paint it using a small roller, just wet enough and spin the rotor, apply wet roller to that edge and hopefully it will coat it, but that I can do when it's all back on the bike....
 
Nice work. Rotors and wheels look well done from the pics. And yeah, I like the proposed engine scheme. That pic you linked to is the bike I'm rebuilding and i will also go with the black engine color and polished cases (assuming I can ever get the dang thing cleaned enough!). Black and chrome just go together like "peas and carrots".

Sci85
 
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I need some advice folks....

I cleaned up the swingarm today and discovered this.....

487f2933.jpg


It's a little hard to see here, but there is an indent on the swingarm - it's on the right side just behind the pivot point/bearing. It looks like a side impact pushed in the tube 1/4-1/3". I thought it might be a stock "feature" (but a quick search indicates no). The rear brake arm lever is just behind it.

A couple of other better pics.....

30e52d8a.jpg


7e6803ea.jpg


Swingarm upside down showing it.
2b12f7f6.jpg


I made some quick measurements from the pivot point back to the chain adjusters. They seem to be even on both sides. None of the welds are cracked, and the paint on the dent isn't broken. There seems to be no other significant damage. Since the tubes are box welded together on both sides, it seems like the only damage is the indent itself. The tubes themselves are 1.5" in diameter.

eBay doesn't have any exact fits currently, but another site has one for $100. It looks like I can still buy a new one from Suzuki for $130 or so.

What do you think I should do?
 
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