82 GS1100E pod filter adventure/problems

[Tom R]

The spring and washer go under the needle clip, so in order to raise the needle, you need to either make the stock spacer thinner, or replace it with a stack of shins that are thinner than the stock spacer.
Also, the hat that sits on top of the needle has a front and back, so pay attention during reassembly.

 

[posplayr]

About 7 out of 8 mins of that video are dramatically out of focus. What makes people post stuff like that? No pride of workmanship. Anyway, I've posted the correct answer and if you search the forum here you will get confirmation. You can also check the carb rebuild tutorial as linked in my signature and on Basscliff's website for more info.

This thread has almost (not quite) turned into an opinion poll of jetting a stock GS1100E 16V with 4:1/Pods pods no less (as if no one has ever done it before or there is some great mystery).

There is a reason why guys like Chef, keep getting lots of return work for carb rebuilds and jetting. This thread is a clear example of that.

 

[Rob S.]

Thanks for your reply.

What did you end up with? What size jets, main and pilot? What about needle shims?

Thanks again, and hope you can share what jet sizes you ended up with.

I truly wish I could. I asked my mechanic for that info on several different occasions and got several different answers:

1. You paid several hundred dollars for that work. Do you want to just give that info away for free? I didn't say this to him, but yes I did - to my brothers here on the site. I tried explaining to him that the vast majority of members of this site live in the Midwest, or Canada or elsewhere where they would not be prospective customers of his (his shop is in Suffolk county, Long Island, New York.)

2. He told me he didn't write the info down, and doesn't recall the exact settings used on my bike. In any case, he said, every bike (even identical models) is different and requires different settings.

3. The thing that most annoyed me was that I told him to dyno the bike before and after re-jetting, so I could see the improvement in horsepower and torque. He only gave me the print outs from after the work was done.

But I cannot say anything but the best about the work he does. He did say the jetting wasn't that hard (for him), and that it only took him four different tries to get it to what I consider perfect.

Maybe "EZ" wasn't the best designation for this model. It certainly isn't "EZ" removing the battery!

 

[timbaux]

I truly wish I could. I asked my mechanic for that info on several different occasions and got several different answers:

1. You paid several hundred dollars for that work. Do you want to just give that info away for free? I didn't say this to him, but yes I did - to my brothers here on the site. I tried explaining to him that the vast majority of members of this site live in the Midwest, or Canada or elsewhere where they would not be prospective customers of his (his shop is in Suffolk county, Long Island, New York.)

2. He told me he didn't write the info down, and doesn't recall the exact settings used on my bike. In any case, he said, every bike (even identical models) is different and requires different settings.

3. The thing that most annoyed me was that I told him to dyno the bike before and after re-jetting, so I could see the improvement in horsepower and torque. He only gave me the print outs from after the work was done.

But I cannot say anything but the best about the work he does. He did say the jetting wasn't that hard (for him), and that it only took him four different tries to get it to what I consider perfect.

Maybe "EZ" wasn't the best designation for this model. It certainly isn't "EZ" removing the battery!

Yes, there are a lot of mechanics that are fiercely protective of what they know. In the case you stated above, i think thats borderline paranoia. If someone came to my family's mechanic shop and paid $300 to get their car fixed, it's industry standard practice to list what was done, an itemization. You can bet that the people that had motor's built by my family years ago wanted the cam specs, valve sizes, compression ratio, etc. Some things cannot be kept secret, once work is done, at least the owner has a right to know exactly what was done. Head porting was where the power was made, because if it breathes, it will run.

As for my bike, I ordered the Dyno Jet kit 3133. If you go to their PDF file, you can read the instructions, and there is a jet at the mouth of the carb that can be changed to lean out the bottom end. It also says that if you do that, you are going to have to go up one size on the main jet. So,,,, if it initially tells you to go with a 138 main jet, and you change the jet at the carb mouth, you end up with a 142.5 main jet.

I am pretty sure i will end up with exactly the same thing Tom did, 142.5, 47.5 pilot, the clip on the third groove from the top on the needle.

 

[Rob S.]

There was one other thing that bothered me a bit. Some parts I supplied, bought from fellow members of this site to repair crash damage, foot pegs, turn signals, headlight, timing cover, that kind of stuff. I also bought an 1150 oil cooler and an '83 140 mph speedo just as upgrades. None of those parts were even claimed to be NOS; you exchange photos, negotiate a price, and basically take your chances. I have to say that I was very pleased with everything I bought from fellow members, and equally pleased with the way my mechanic installed them.

BUT...there were some parts that I had the mechanic order new and install. We discussed prices and specs (sprockets and chain) and in some cases even brand names (fork springs, tires). I had not one bit of a problem with his installation of those parts, but I specifically asked (more than once), not for the old parts, but for the packaging the new parts came in.

I mean, I'm not completely anal. I didn't expect any 'packaging' for the tires - the brand, model and specs are all right there on the side of the tire, and it can't take any more than three seconds to see whether the tires are brand new.

But the sprockets had to come at least with some shrink wrapping attached to a piece of cardboard with a brand name and #630 printed on it, am I wrong? Same thing for the chain. I didn't suspect any foul play, I just document every little thing about each bike, even if I just start it and don't ride it.

Love to see some pics of your air-cooled beast.

 

[Tom R]

FYI - Dyno jets, and Mikuni jets are sized differently... there’s conversion charts out there.

 

[timbaux]

Learned something again. No idea they are different.

 

[posplayr]

Learned something again. No idea they are different.

most likely the DJ 138,s will be fine with the 47.5 pilots start at 3rd groove.

138dj is approx a 130 Mikuni. So running 140-142 Mikuni is very fat(IE rich)

 

[timbaux]

most likely the DJ 138,s will be fine with the 47.5 pilots start at 3rd groove.

138dj is approx a 130 Mikuni. So running 140-142 Mikuni is very fat(IE rich)

thanks! where do i get the 47.5 pilots?

Also,, in the dyno jet instructions they say changing the pilot air jet will lean out the bottom ... i got a rich condition as it is.. do you think i should try to first? It says that i will have to run a richer air fuel mixture.. i am guessing a 1/4 or 1/2 turn out on the the adjustment screws. Thanks all of you for your responses.. it has been a learning experience just reading this.

 

[timbaux]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MIKUNI-PIL...h=item2cde1b9fbc:g:O-0AAOSwRbtaM~Fn:rk:2:pf:0

is this what i need?

 

[timbaux]

I got the Dyno Jet 3133 kit, and installed that, and put new 47.5 pilot jets in as well. It is running well. thanks for all who replied. The fix yall suggested was what ended up working. Appreciate it.

 

[posplayr]

I got the Dyno Jet 3133 kit, and installed that, and put new 47.5 pilot jets in as well. It is running well. thanks for all who replied. The fix yall suggested was what ended up working. Appreciate it.

Thanks for letting us know about the final resolution.