'83 850GL Maintenance and other repairs

[93Bandit]

Well, gentlemen. Put a new air filter in and went for a ride. I think that did it, along with sealing up the airbox. She seems to be dialed right in.

Time to put some miles down before the end of the season!

Here's the old air filter. She's toast!

 

[93Bandit]

Had a chance to work on the 850 today. A coworker gave me a worn out Vetter windjammer fairing and trunk a few years ago, and they've been sitting in the shed ever since. I'm not going to use the fairing since I already have a windshield, but I wanted to see if I could put the trunk on my bike. The bracket that came with the trunk is for a G model frame, so it won't fit my L without some modifications. I already have a luggage rack on my bike, so I took the trunk off the G bracket and bolted it to my luggage rack. It's not perfect and I had to get creative with the mounting, but I think it'll work. The key for the trunk lock was lost so I drilled the lock out and installed a new lock from the local hardware store. I've needed a trunk or saddle bags for a while because I commute to work on my bike, and it's usually substantially cooler in the morning than in the afternoon so I need a place to put all my warm gear when riding home. I used to have a plastic egg crate strapped to my luggage rack. It worked, but is obviously not weather proof. Hopefully this trunk will better suite my needs.

I also put a crash bar on the bike, then put my highway pegs on the crash bar. They're in a much more comfortable location now and are more firmly mounted which will be nice. I'm sure Mr. Rob S. will appreciate the crash bar! Some may recognize it as the crash bar Mr. Rob S. kindly suggested I remove from the 750 I revived. I warned him it may find its way on my 850! I think at some point I'm going to install some aux fog lamps to the crash bar as well, but I'm in no hurry.

Here's a picture of the accessories installed.

 

[93Bandit]

As I'm getting seat time, I've been pushing my rides longer and longer to prep for a road trip. My right hand is constantly falling asleep and cramping, so I'm exploring throttle locks. There's so many choices online, I don't know where to being. So I tried my own DIY version using a metal coat hanger and zip tie. So far it seems to work OK, but it slips if I hit any bumps in the road. However, if I just rest my hand on the grip, that's enough to keep the throttle steady. It can't remove my hand from the grip for extended periods of time with this throttle lock, but it does allow me to relax my grip which I think will help. I only got to for a short test around the block, so I need to get a few good rides in using it to see if it will actually help or not. Here are a few pictures.

 

[rphillips]

Back in the day, 2 things helped "MY" hands falling asleep. Foam grips, felt odd first ride then then all good, your fingers aren't wrapped in as tight of circle + foam eats the vibration... Vista Cruise throttle lock really helped back when smoking while riding, or any time you wanted to turn loose of the throttle.

 

[93Bandit]

Back in the day, 2 things helped "MY" hands falling asleep. Foam grips, felt odd first ride then then all good, your fingers aren't wrapped in as tight of circle + foam eats the vibration... Vista Cruise throttle lock really helped back when smoking while riding, or any time you wanted to turn loose of the throttle.

I have heated grips on my bike, so unfortunately foam grips aren't an option unless I give up the heat. The heated grips are a life saver in the cooler months when I ride, so I'm keeping them.

As for the Vista Cruise, I actually have one. Unfortunately, due to the wide harness end of the heated grip, the ring that goes on the grip has to be too far outboard which pushes my hand so far my hand hangs off the grip. I tried to get used to it but it made the cramping worse since when holding the grip, I was only using 3 fingers instead of all 5. If the ring wasn't so wide, I could use it and would love it. Thus my DIY job.

 

[Grimly]

I have heated grips on my bike, so unfortunately foam grips aren't an option unless I give up the heat. The heated grips are a life saver in the cooler months when I ride, so I'm keeping them.

I was of the same opinion years ago, but I discovered internal bar heaters, which allow the use of foam grips.
Last time I looked for another set, the maker had disappeared, but similar sets are available for snowmobiles.

 

[93Bandit]

That's an interesting concept...I can see how that would work on the left grip, but how well does the heat conduct from the handle bar to the throttle then to.the grip? Might have to look into that

 

[Grimly]

That's an interesting concept...I can see how that would work on the left grip, but how well does the heat conduct from the handle bar to the throttle then to.the grip? Might have to look into that

It works fine. There's a slight difference in how quickly you feel the heat, but after five minutes they're both toasty anyway.
Here's a sample set for something to look for...
https://www.remotemoto.com/articles/...otorcycle-kit/

The bar heater market seems to be flooded with rectangular heat pads, but I wonder if they can be curled up and inserted internally.

 

[93Bandit]

Interesting. Thanks for the info Grimly. I just bought my heated grips in December of last year so I'll be keeping them. But I'll keep these in mind for other bikes.

 

[93Bandit]

I scored a lightly used set of Cortech Super 2.0 saddle bags a few months ago for $40. They're $200 new so I'd say I got a good deal! They're clean and not weathered, and they included the rain covers. Even though they're not an exact match to my hard shell trunk, they definitely help "balance" the look of the bike. It was goofy looking with just the trunk. Now that I've got some good storage space, I'm hoping to take a few day trip next year. Not sure where I'll go but I would like to put some miles under my belt.

Now that winter has set in, I'm going to get started on the bike after the holidays. Brake lines, front brake switch, cam chain tensioner, valve adjustment, and probably a few other odds and ends. Thanks to my heated and insulated garage, bike work in the winter is cozy and fun.

 

[Grimly]

Thanks to my heated and insulated garage, bike work in the winter is cozy and fun.

Yep, it makes a huge difference.
Prior winters, I'd used a simple electric oil-filled heater to get the inside temp to around 16degC and it was wonderful, when the outside temps were just around zero - we don't usually get much colder than that around here, but recently... brrr...
Anyway, with the price of electricity going sky-high this year, I've bought a Chinese Diesel Heater (Eberspacher copy) for the workshop, and should be able to heat it for half the price next winter.

 

[93Bandit]

Yep, it makes a huge difference.
Prior winters, I'd used a simple electric oil-filled heater to get the inside temp to around 16degC and it was wonderful, when the outside temps were just around zero - we don't usually get much colder than that around here, but recently... brrr...
Anyway, with the price of electricity going sky-high this year, I've bought a Chinese Diesel Heater (Eberspacher copy) for the workshop, and should be able to heat it for half the price next winter.

Interesting, hope that diesel heater works out better for you! I've got a natural gas line in the garage, T'd off the main line for my house furnace. I bought a used Modine natural gas heater and hung it from the ceiling. Wired a cheapy thermostat to it and keep the garage at 50F 24/7. When I want to work out there, I bump it up to ~65F. Fortunately my garage is insulated well enough that my monthly gas bill didn't go up too much. It's well worth the added cost to keep it heated. Keeps all the tools from freezing which is nice on the fingers.

Before you guys think I'm a softy, I've done my fair share of automotive repairs out on the driveway during a Blizzard. Now that I'm spoiled, I'm taking full advantage of it.

 

[Admiral Beez]

It works fine. There's a slight difference in how quickly you feel the heat, but after five minutes they're both toasty anyway.
Here's a sample set for something to look for...
https://www.remotemoto.com/articles/...otorcycle-kit/

The bar heater market seems to be flooded with rectangular heat pads, but I wonder if they can be curled up and inserted internally.

I'm thinking of adding heated grips to my GS650G. What brand/model did you buy?

 

[Grimly]

I'm thinking of adding heated grips to my GS650G. What brand/model did you buy?

On the XJ, it's a pair of Oxford grips, but the internal ones on the GS, the maker is long gone and I haven't found a replacement set for when they eventually peg out.
I had an eye on Polly snowmobile heaters, but they seem to have stopped making the internal ones they used to advertise. Found an old-stock pair but was too late and the seller pulled them.

However, there are available some industrial core heaters, which is all they are and I'll be going down that route, since the control is nothing more than a series / parallel switch.

 

[Admiral Beez]

On the XJ, it's a pair of Oxford grips, but the internal ones on the GS, the maker is long gone and I haven't found a replacement set for when they eventually peg out.
I had an eye on Polly snowmobile heaters, but they seem to have stopped making the internal ones they used to advertise. Found an old-stock pair but was too late and the seller pulled them.

However, there are available some industrial core heaters, which is all they are and I'll be going down that route, since the control is nothing more than a series / parallel switch.

The ones with the external box don't interest me. My bars are already cluttered enough.

 

[93Bandit]

Man, I need to get back on this. Been so dang busy. I'm Running out of time before riding season!

 

[93Bandit]

I'm off work this week so I had some time to wrench on the 850 today. I made new Earls brake lines and installed them, as well as flushed the old fluid out of the masters and calipers. I cut one old line open and it actually look fine inside, but it was past time to replace them anyways. The fluid was nasty though, had a dark rusty tone to it, kinda like maple syrup. The fluid in the front calipers was partially dirty. I think I may need to rebuild the calipers at some point due to how bad the fluid looked. I fear the piston is started to rust. The brakes have worked fine since I've owned the bike and have never leaked, so I may be able to get another season out of them.

Here's the bowl I collected the old fluid into. Pretty nasty, good thing I finally changed it!


Here's one of the old lines cut open. Doesn't look to bad to me, but I know they're beyond expired so good to replace and now I don't have to worry about them failing.


New front lines installed! Please pardon the dirty state of my bike. I ride some dirt roads due to where I live, and I've gotten caught in the rain. Unfortunately I'm not the best at keeping my vehicles clean. I loathe cleaning in general, so it gets neglected more than it should...


New rear line installed. I thought this line would be a major pain to replace since it is routed through a tight hole/passage through the swing arm. However, rotating as I pulled the banjo through it came right out.


Next I think I'll rebuild the cam chain tensioner. I had time today but lost the motivation to pull the tank and carbs off. Maybe tomorrow morning I'll feel spunky enough to get it done.

Pictures to follow once I sit down at my PC...

 

[93Bandit]

Fortunately I woke up this morning with an almost unnatural sense of motivation lol. I'm still a young guy (29) but a lot of days I seriously lack energy and motivation to do things. It's not laziness, it's somehow different but I'm not sure how to describe it. I've always been a hard worker and a go-getter so this "feeling" is unnatural for me. I digress...

Anyways, with this invigorating sense of motivation, I ran to the garage before it vanished and took the tank and carbs off the bike to access the cam chain tensioner. I pulled it off and rebuilt it. I thank past-me for ordering all these parts 7 months ago in preparation. I usually order parts as needed when working through a project. See what needs replaced and make a list to order. This approach is fine, but it often delays progress. This time I ordered everything I could possibly need to do these jobs and gotter-done.

Here's the filthy dirty engine case and tensioner. It's hard to tell, but all the oil leakage on this side of the engine is from the tensioner. I soaked the engine case with degreaser while rebuilding the tensioner.


This thing is definitely leaking and in need of a rebuild.


Freshly rebuilt tensioner. It still looks dirty because I didn't repaint it, but I assure it's squeaky clean and has fresh seals. Fortunately the 30mm nut wasn't stuck so I was able to replace the large inner O ring as well. I used my solvent tank to clean this thing which is another reason I'm glad I was able to do a full tear down. I wanted to ensure all the solvent was removed from the internals before rebuilding. That solvent could damage the seals and cause lubrication issues. Pardon the cardboard sacrificial jaws on my vice. I need to get some plastic ones...


Reinstalled tensioner and cleaned engine case. I didn't get every ounce of dirt and grime off the engine, but I cleaned it as best as I could with engine degreaser, paper towels and a screwdriver. Someday if/when I pull the engine for a rebuild I'll do a more thorough job. Good enough for now.


All back together with rebuilt tensioner and new brake lines.

 

[93Bandit]

Got some warmer weather today, 49F. So I took the 850 out for a quick "round the block" to test the brakes and get it hot to ensure I fixed the oil leak.

Brakes are definitely less mushy! The levers are touchy compared to how it was with the original lines. I think I got a minor performance upgrade using the Earls brake lines rather than replacing with OEM rubber lines. When I got home I double checked all the fittings for leaks and did fine the block where all 3 front lines T off each other was wet, so I snugged those banjo bolts and cleaned it off. We'll see if that did it. If not, I've got some extra compression washers to try again. All my compression fittings are dry which was my main concern!

Oil leak appears to be fixed and I got the tensioner rebuilt and installed successfully which is great. I was a little intimatintimated by it but the job was easier than I expected.

All in all, I think the work I did was a success. Still need to check the valves before too long.

 

[93Bandit]

As luck would have it, as I started to enjoy the riding season the clutch started slipping. I checked my records and I installed new OEM clutch springs ~4k miles ago when it started slipping before. The new springs solved the slip for a while, but now it's slipping again and too much to enjoy the bike. Slips in all gears under moderate throttle. The clutch cable is adjusted correctly and I use the correct oil, so I think it's time for new clutch friction plates.

I took the clutch plates out and measured all of them. I measured thickness at 4 spots on each plate, 12, 3, 6, & 9 oclock.
Spec per the OEM manual for the frictions is 0.106-0.114" with the limit being 0.094", and steels spec is 0.080" with no limit specified.
My clutch plates measured the following:
-The friction plates measured 0.107-0.109", most being 0.107".
-The steels measured 0.075-0.077", most being 0.077".

So my frictions fall within spec, although all are at the low end. All the steels are below spec, but only by ~0.003". None of the steel plates are scored or look worn. Only one plate has 3 areas of discoloration due to heat which you will see pictured below. Also, I dried off the frictions well and gave them a close inspection. They definitely have a shine to them so I think they are glazed. I also noticed that when wiping the oil off them the friction material was flaking pretty heavily and felt somewhat brittle in places. See pictures below.

Here's the only steel plate showing signs of overheating. It's not warped and still has a smooth even surface so I will be reusing it.


Here's a few pictures of the frictions. You can see the shinny hard surface.




Here you can see where some of the friction material flaked off.


Also, when I took the clutch plates out I noticed the basket was loose. Come to find out, the basket hub nut was very loose, the only thing holding it on was the washer. So I need to take that apart to see why it came loose. Hopefully there's nothing damaged/badly worn and I can just retorque it.



I think between the age of the clutch, the brittle friction material, all the plates measuring at the low end of spec and the glazed appearance, I am going to opt for installing new friction plates. My biggest fear is the material being so brittle, I don't want that coming apart and contaminating the engine, clogging oil passages etc.