Bandit 1200 Yoshimura Special

[Rijko]

Hi Guys,

i bought a Bandit 1200 from my brother.

He has had the bike for years, and always had it maintained.
But it stood still for 3 years now. (in a warm garage, the bike still looks great)
He never had any issues with it, so i hope/expect not too many issues.

It has a broken battery and he told me it stalls when trying to start it.
I will start with a new battery and cleaning the carbs, and see what that brings me.
Oil and filter, valves, brake system, front fork oil will be next.

The vehicle papers say 03-2005 so i thought it would be a 2004 model,
but at the dealer's today they told me based on the VIN it started life
a 2005 GSF1200S - model "Z", MK4.
Dunno exactly what that means yet.
The GSF1200S had the fairing afaik - this bike does not.

It's a special anniversary edition, with GSXR colors. Some 1000 were created.
The Dutch importer NIMAG is said to have made approx. 75 special editions
based on this model, they called it the Suzuki Bandit 1200 Yoshimura Special.

These 75 were equipped with blue LSL handlebars, full SS Yoshimura exhaust
system, crash pads, Yoshi stickers on the side panels.
Don't know if that are all the changes they made to the GSF1200S.

For me, used to GS1000, GS1000S, and GT750 era bikes ... this is a
"modern" bike. Know nothing about the technology or model,
so it's time to learn new stuff.

Since this forum is home to some experienced folk, i thought to start here.
Hope there's some Bandit knowledge in the GSR hive mind...
Do these bikes have any wellknown weak points or things i need to pay
special attention to ?
Any info is welcome !

 

[Rijko]

From the brochure :



Looks like the bike is still as it was sold in 2005.

No modifications, other than the Yoshi stickers removed from the side panels.

 

[posplayr]

Looks like a great project; keep us posted with pics

 

[fbody_mike]

It was somewhat popular to remove the fairing and go with the naked look, there were even part lists available to get all the parts needed to make a naked Bandit.

I love that color scheme.

As for problems with this model, its mainly the factory jetting, it is very lean from the factory and will backfire at idle when cold "lean sneeze". Your bike has a Yoshi pipe on it so maybe someone already took care of the carburetor tuning. The petcocks will leak and need to be rebuilt or replaced often. A lot of popping during deceleration can be caused by the Suzuki PAIR emission device, you can get plates to delete this if it happens. Oh, its main problem is it is very comfortable, smooth running bike with a hell of a mid-range torque and can get you in trouble quickly if your country has speed cameras like the ones I found in Norway.

 

[rphillips]

Not sure about Netherlands, but in the U.S. all the big 2005 Bandits were blue & white, all other years were only one solid color. Early years the frame was painted the same color as the body work, to me not impressive at all, 2005 frames are black. The 1200 came with no fairing, the 1200S came with the fairing. For me, the 1999 thru 2002 models are more comfortable, 2003 & newer lay you over more crotch rocket position, & the wires & hoses are too short to install taller handlebars. I have a 1999 Bandit 1200S very comfortable & great seat. I have a 2005 1200S less comfort, a lot better looking, & a narrower seat, my buddy has a 2008 Bandit 1250S even narrower seat. You're lucky, the 2005 was the last year for the rocker arm valve adjusters, very simple & work great, the newer ones you have to remove the cams to adjust the valves. Also, 2005 was the last year for carbs. To my knowledge, we had no 2006 models, 2007 came the 1250's. Also never seen a Yosh. model. I've seen 2005's advertised as "limited" but never seen anything other than a plain old blue & white Bandit 1200S. Gosh the 2005 models look good. Congrats & keep us updated.

 

[Rijko]

here we go, the lessons are starting
Thank you guys.

As for problems with this model, its mainly the factory jetting, it is very lean from the factory and will backfire at idle when cold "lean sneeze". Your bike has a Yoshi pipe on it so maybe someone already took care of the carburetor tuning.

Great. Note to self to pay extra attention to needle type and jet sizes to compare to factory.

Oh, its main problem is it is very comfortable, smooth running bike with a hell of a mid-range torque and can get you in trouble quickly if your country has speed cameras like the ones I found in Norway.

Hilarious hahaha hope you did not get fined ...

I drove this bike just once years ago and was amazed at the torque and smoothness.
Could not resist ... popped the clutch just slightly and the ease that the bike lifted the front wheel ... amazing.

 

[Rijko]

A lot of popping during deceleration can be caused by the Suzuki PAIR emission device, you can get plates to delete this if it happens.

I did not know that system, very interesting and am reading up on it.

Found an interesting movie on that, sounds like a simple cap could also be used. (6:05)

 

[Rijko]

You're lucky, the 2005 was the last year for the rocker arm valve adjusters, very simple & work great, the newer ones you have to remove the cams to adjust the valves.

Right ... cool ! Bought a workshop manual but had not checked that yet.
Have a box full of shims for my GS1000S, another one for the Z900,
was hoping not to have to buy yet another set for the Bandit.

Also never seen a Yosh. model.

Well, seems like the exhaust system and a pair of stickers slapped on the
sidepanels justify the "Yoshimura Special" name ... now with a set of
Yoshi cams and TMR MJN carbs ... 30-50 HP extra .... oh well keep dreaming.
The bike is great as is, no sense throwing that much money at it.
Don't even think i will go for a set of GSXR1100 cams.

I did find out NIMAG put a set of WP springs in the front fork on this model.

 

[rphillips]

Yes, I think Dale Walker has done more with Bandits than anyone else. He has a kit, to raise the handlebars on the later models, I talked to him after I got my "05" & he said many folks were wanting to not be leaned over as far as these were. Whole kit was something over $ 400, I'm still leaning over while riding the "05", & ride the old ugly, drab, "Pickle Green", "99" model a lot more, way more comfortable. Also the instruments, I think it was in "03" they moved then way down in the fairing, & harder to read, the old ones were up near handlebars & much easier to see. But gosh the "05"'s look good.

 

[Rijko]

Thanks for that Holeshot link ... will check it out.
Lots of great stuff for sale for the Bandit but not much
info/tips etc on his site.

First priority is to get the bike running.
Filled the new battery with acid and hooked it up to the charger.
Washed the first layer of dirt off the bike today, it's quite dirty.

Later this week i will take off the carbs, clean them and see
if the bike will run.

 

[Rijko]

I will use the bike for commuting to start with and improve the bike rolling.
I love polished alu, so engine sides, front fork legs and other alu parts will
be shiny.

I like the twisty dikes in The Netherlands and mountain roads in Germany and
Belgium - short and sharp curves so even though the bike lost lots of HP
compared to the GSXR performance i think the midrange torque will suit
me well.

Like you, i like a bike that feels like it's on rails.
Found an article on my bike that is positive on the front fork WP springs,
but mentions the rear shaking a lot, though easily controlled, even on
straight-line high speed runs.
Could you elaborate on the improvements to the rear suspension ?
Low-cost - nice improvement sounds good, i am not a racing type of guy
looking for the ultimate thing at any cost.

 

[Rijko]

oh and yes, not like the 68 kg i used to be ... it's more like 95 these days ...

 

[Rijko]

Change the fork oil often, big benefit.

Would not surprise me if the original oil is still in there after 15 years,
smelling like rotten fish ... i was planning on replacing
oil and seals even though no leaking.

 

[fbody_mike]

You can also check out maximum-suzuki.com Dale is active there and there is a wealth of info on Bandits there.

 

[Rijko]

You can also check out maximum-suzuki.com Dale is active there and there is a wealth of info on Bandits there.

Thank you, i just registered. Waiting for activation.

 

[earlfor]

I have a 2003 Bandit 12S with 85K miles on it. All except the first 800 miles are mine and all maintenance has been done by me. The bike has required nothing other than routine maintenance for 17 years. I check valve clearances every 20k miles, however no adjustments have been needed in the last 65K miles. I love having screw adjusters on the valves and no shims to fight with. I have had to replace the fuel petcock once and that was about 8 years ago. It's on it's 3rd set of spark plugs in 85k miles and new ones didn't make it run any better. LOL
It burns about 2 ounces of oil between oil changes, and compression is the same as the day I bought it.

I have the same Yoshimura RS-3 exhaust system that you do. To start the bike when the engine is cold, use 1/4 choke and let it run for about 15 seconds before sliding the choke lever to the off position. Don't apply choke and twist the throttle at the same time. Do one or the other. Once warmed up, choke is never needed. If you try to start it when cold, it will be difficult to start without choke and also difficult with too much choke, and it will backfire and refuse to start.

Stock gearing is 15/45 and mileage averages 43mpg at 70mph. Changing to 16/44 for freeway miles or traveling will give about 46mpg at 70 mph.

On the petcock, handle pointing at 6'0clock is Run, 3 o'clock is Prime, and 12 o'clock is Reserve. From Run to Reserve, the handle rotates counter clockwise.

The cables and hoses are long enough to install higher handlebars if you remove the hose block from the triple tree and fabricate a simple flat bracket that bolts onto the tree on one end and the other end, to the hose block. This moves the hose junction higher, allowing more handlebar movement. I've had Grand Prix bars for a long time on the old girl.

I fabricated 1/4" thick aluminum block off plates for the pair system years ago. Just use the stock part to pattern from for the block off plates. Use the original bolts.

Anti seize the exhaust manifold bolts. No one likes things breaking because of frozen/rusted nuts and bolts. heh

It is full of oil when sitting on the centerstand the oil level is in the center of the sight window.

 

[Rijko]

I have a 2003 Bandit 12S with 85K miles on it. All except the first 800 miles are mine and all maintenance has been done by me. The bike has required nothing other than routine maintenance for 17 years.

85K with nothing but routine maintenance ? Wow.
But yes, when i ask for weaknesses most people tell me similar.
Reliable, good fun. Good to hear, they have come a long way since the GS.

 

[earlfor]

85K with nothing but routine maintenance ? Wow.
But yes, when i ask for weaknesses most people tell me similar.
Reliable, good fun. Good to hear, they have come a long way since the GS.

The air/oil cooled Bandits don't have a weakness. Really!, they don't. Or at least I've been unable to find one. heh
I went from a 85 GS 1150EF (was trouble free once I got it sorted out) to the current Bandit. The B12 is a lot like a upgraded 1150. Maintenance is very similar. Handling isn't though. The B12 is soooo much easier to ride. A spectacular mid range makes for a very pleasant all around bike.

I have a factory service manual for it (covers yours too), so if there is anything you are unable to find out about it mechanically, I can look it up.

Popping on deacceleration stops after you fabricate and install pair block off plates.

Everyone has told me Bandits are set up lean running. They are lean in idle range which is why when cold 1/4 choke is necessary. Once warm no choke is needed to start or idle. The plugs burn perfect color. A light brown/tan.

Just a word of warning. I found out the hard way. The spark plug cavities in the valve cover are deep and if you drop something in one , even though the spark plug is installed, It is HELL to get it out. And, if the little drop thing is aluminum, a magnet is useless. I make it a point to never remove the rubber covers while working on the bike now.
Or if I do, I always put rags over the plugs. You do not need to remove the spark plugs to remove the valve covers.

The two oil lines feeding into the rear of the valve cover have large O rings. They like to fall out and disappear when you're not looking. There is a sneaky valve cover bolt on the front top, just left of center. You cant see it, but if you have snake fingers, you can feel it. LOL

Clutch linings are tricky. There are multiple thicknesses in a specific order/position in the stack. There is also a 1.5mm JIS set screw that locks the stack together that is easy to miss if you are not looking for it. It is the first thing that has to be removed to check the clutch linings. Basically, if you can't get the stack apart with bare fingers, you have missed something. I checked my clutch lining about two years ago and it was fine, so I am now at 85K miles on the original linings.

I use Yamabond to stick valve cover gaskets in place. Avoid silicone based sealer.

 

[earlfor]

How many miles on it?

 

[Rijko]

How many miles on it?

None Just 26+K km's. Thanks for all the advice