I need to change my fork seals on my 1979 GS 1000, and I have both a Suzuki shop manual and a Haynes manual. In the Haynes, which gives tips on how to do jobs without buying expensive specialty tools for what is a (hopefully) one-time job. Haynes recommends a bolt with two nuts jammed together on an extension to help remove the damper assembly. Does anyone know what size bolt and nuts are correct. Thanks.
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Bolt and nut size for fork-damper removal?
- Thread starter jknappsax
- Start date
You need 1/2" threaded rod and nuts, which will end up 3/4" across the flats on the nuts. 3/4" is 19.05mm, close enough to 19mm that it doesn't matter. There's one type of 1/2" nut that is a different outside diameter, so make sure you get the right one.
Metric hardware is still stupidly hard to find in the US for some reason.
Alternatively, many people have had success with a cheapo spark plug socket (with 3/4" OD hex at the top) turned around backwards on a long extension. This has the advantage of allowing you to hold the assembly with a breaker bar.
You might have to experiment with some different brands of spark plug sockets -- you have to pull out the rubber insert, and even then, some spark plug sockets won't allow an extension to come through the "wrong" way.
Metric hardware is still stupidly hard to find in the US for some reason.
Alternatively, many people have had success with a cheapo spark plug socket (with 3/4" OD hex at the top) turned around backwards on a long extension. This has the advantage of allowing you to hold the assembly with a breaker bar.
You might have to experiment with some different brands of spark plug sockets -- you have to pull out the rubber insert, and even then, some spark plug sockets won't allow an extension to come through the "wrong" way.
S
sschering
Guest
Yeah just use the 5/8 spark plug socket trick..
I have 4 of them.. 2 cheep chrome vanadium and 2 craftsman..
Only one of the craftsman will mount on the 3/8 drive upside down.. None of the CV ones.. they all have a lip inside that is in the way.
Now there is another way.. the square end of a 1/2" drive extension is a nice fit in the hex end of a 5/8" spark plug socket.. slip it in there and wrap some electrical tape on so it won't fall off.. Instant tool and no hunting for the right kind of spark plug socket.
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Try jamming it with a broom handle first - works most of the time.
Not intentionally highjacking but I still don't understand what the use of the nuts are on the threaded tool? Do they hold something in place so it doesn't move?
J
jwhelan65
Guest
+1 What is the purpose?
kochic
Forum Mentor
I have made a tool for this purpose.
Marc
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=163720
Marc
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=163720
Steve
GS Whisperer
That works great, if you have a welder. Some of us are limited to credit cards and adjustable spanners.
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That works great, if you have a welder. Some of us are limited to credit cards and adjustable spanners.
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A credit card can get anything welded.
That works great, if you have a welder. Some of us are limited to credit cards and adjustable spanners.
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Rock-paper-scissors
But you can get get a welder with that credit card
I'm slowly getting better but finding all kinds of uses for this. If it is something I want pretty I talke t oa pro. But to put together a tool like this works great.
There are cheap but effective; it really is a crappy welder but if you care about beauty. Just remember to p[ick up a grinder and flap disk to clean up the splattering and slag
http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/mig-flux-welders/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-98871.html
M
mike_of_bbg
Guest
Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the self-made threaded tool or socket trick for the bikes with larger diameter forks (i.e., GS750+)? With 650 ccs or less the wooden broom handle is the tool of choice? I seem to remember reading that in some thread here. Used the broom handle and it worked great, btw.
