• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Cam journal wear

  • Thread starter Thread starter jhillier449
  • Start date Start date
CamJournal.jpg


Response's coming.

I'll wait...
(Not enjoying the flaming parties of late.;))
 
I did a quick search, but I needed an opinion on "my" cylinder head.:rolleyes:

Nothing jumped out at me during the search to answer my query.
 
is the cam scored as well? if not then buy a new cam cap, or a decent second hand one.
personally i would carefully dress it up and run it, making sure you have good oil feed to the head and there is nothing untoward up there that caused the scoring in the first place
 
I'd measure the cam to journal clearance with plastigage. Half the journal looks okay so if the wear isn't too bad you may be okay.

Oh, and you should not attempt to swap around cam caps unless absolutely necessary. The caps are line bored to the head and should stay as a matched set with the head.
 
with scoring like that plastigage will not give you an accurate result. what should the clearance be if measured accurately?
 
As long as there are no raised bits where it's scored and the cam isn't toast that'll be alright. I've seen way worse run ok.
 
Cam itself looks good, so I think I will run it as is seeing this is the worst one and only on one side.

Maybe an opinion from Ray or Chef will cement it for me.

The more positive opinions the better eh?:lol:
 
As stated above,..you should be ok as long as there are no raised burrs. Small grooves hurt nothing and actually hold oil which is good. you said the cam looked ok so I think you are good. Use a wheel cylinder hone and a variable speed drill with the cap torqued down and turn S L O W L Y . oil while turning . You only want to clean it up and not remove any material. I have used this method on aluminum overhead cam auto engines where the cam has seized completely . An easy fix. After the hone clean up, install camshaft with caps torqued. Cam should rotate easily and smoothly with no tight spots. No valves of course.

Terry
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys, great replies. This is my first head rebuild and a can't wait to see how it turns out. Got to clean everything, lap the valves, new valve stem oil seals, run all the threads.........:rolleyes:
 
Will do.

I guess I can blow some compressed air through the oil galleries.

Cheers

John
 
Last edited:
(Not enjoying the flaming parties of late.;))
Only tried to correct erroneously given information.

On the other hand, trolling cannot be tolerated.
I'll let someone much more knowledgeable than me reply.
PM sent.

Eric

Now, to the facts. Pictures don't lie, people do.



Is it just me or can you almost "hear" the "experts" leaving the thread?


People with zero actual personnel experience shouldn't be giving advice. Or should they?
 
Has anybody here done, or know of a refurb of this problem yet? because as time goes on and heads get scrapped for what is a theoreticaly a simple fix, ie; shell bearings we're going to run out.
As Nessism says the cam bearings are all matched pairs. the number of times I've seen on ebay heads without caps or vers visa.
 
I haven't done any sort of rework like you are asking.

I 'suspect' you could remove a small amount of metal from the cam bearing caps and have someone align bore or align hone the journals if the damage isn't to severe.
 
yes, that's what I'm thinking, that is a common fix in places like Africa for mains on engine blocks and it works fine.
Or even replace with removable shell bearings.
Another possibility might be to line bore and replace the whole lot and then bore again back to size.
 
When they were poring babbitt bearings back in the twentys and thirtys. The common fix for those, after you removed the last shim from the main cap, was to file the cap and hit the babbitt with a bearing scraper.

Every self respecting old time engine builder used to have a main bearing file and a scraper which were only used for that sole purpose.
 
When they were poring babbitt bearings back in the twentys and thirtys. The common fix for those, after you removed the last shim from the main cap, was to file the cap and hit the babbitt with a bearing scraper.

Every self respecting old time engine builder used to have a main bearing file and a scraper which were only used for that sole purpose.

I've still got my dads'.
I believe that its still done on marine engines in ships where ist impossible to get borers into the spaces so its still done by hand and those are huge bearings.
 
I will guess the two cam caps on the right side are the two with the damage?

I think it is from letting the engine idle a long time on the side stand.
 
Back
Top