T
Turtleface
Guest
Alright. Finally seem to have gotten all the air out of the new brake systems, so now my final hurdle is in sight. Carb tuning. Ugg. Never did like tuning them on cars, always farmed the work out in the past. Now I lack the funds to do so, plus I already have a Carbtune, and I'm pretty set on doing everything on the bike myself. Here's the baseline I'm starting with:
Stock 1100E motor
V&H pipe, similar in look to the MAC version, removable baffle.
K&N pods, pre-oiled.
Brand new OEM carb-to-head boots.
New O-rings, carbs dipped and cleaned thoroughly.
Dyno-Jet kit, installed per instructions.(largest mains,didn't install the air jets)
New stock sized pilot jets, I also have a set of 37.5s, just in case.
She starts easily on about half choke, but won't quite run yet without it. I've got the screws set about 2.5 turns out. Plugs are pretty sooty. I initially had the 37.5s in, and couldn't get it to run well at all, choke or no, which may have led to the sooty plugs. Bike doesn't take throttle very well, and not at all off the choke. No popping when it does rev. Any ideas? I'm thinking I'm a bit rich. I haven't gotten a sync in yet, I'd like her to idle without the choke before I try out the Carbtune. Is it even feasible to sync the carbs while on the choke circuit?
The only caveat I had was replacing the two outboard carb mixture (?) screws? The ones underneath the factory emissions caps. Destroyed the originals removing them. I bought two of them from Mike's XS, and they were just slightly longer than the oem ones. The area where they start to taper is exactly the same, the piece that is longer is the shaft underneath the screw-head itself, but before the seating area. So, effectively, the head sits higher in the screw tower, and there is less pressure put on the spring, washer, and o-ring assembly (seems to make them easier to turn), but seats just like a stock screw. I think. When I installed them, I check them against the stock units, in the mouth of the carb, and it seemed like they were all protruding the same amount when fully seated. I'm 99 percent sure the extra length is a non-issue. All plugs are equally sooty with this setup, which leads me to think that everything is copacetic. I'm going to pull the carbs today, and install the longer screws in the two inboard carbs, and go from there.
And, just to make sure, fewer turns out from seated = leaner mix? Or is it the other way around for CV carbs? More turns out = leaner mix?
I'm slowly starting to figure out how these magical mystery fuel metering devices work. Still makes me want to switch over to fuel injection. Give me a fuel map, spark map, and a laptop, and watch the tuning commence! Funny, that I can proficiently tune a FI system, but am mostly lost when it comes to carbs. Who knows, maybe I'll try a Megasquirt one day.
Stock 1100E motor
V&H pipe, similar in look to the MAC version, removable baffle.
K&N pods, pre-oiled.
Brand new OEM carb-to-head boots.
New O-rings, carbs dipped and cleaned thoroughly.
Dyno-Jet kit, installed per instructions.(largest mains,didn't install the air jets)
New stock sized pilot jets, I also have a set of 37.5s, just in case.
She starts easily on about half choke, but won't quite run yet without it. I've got the screws set about 2.5 turns out. Plugs are pretty sooty. I initially had the 37.5s in, and couldn't get it to run well at all, choke or no, which may have led to the sooty plugs. Bike doesn't take throttle very well, and not at all off the choke. No popping when it does rev. Any ideas? I'm thinking I'm a bit rich. I haven't gotten a sync in yet, I'd like her to idle without the choke before I try out the Carbtune. Is it even feasible to sync the carbs while on the choke circuit?
The only caveat I had was replacing the two outboard carb mixture (?) screws? The ones underneath the factory emissions caps. Destroyed the originals removing them. I bought two of them from Mike's XS, and they were just slightly longer than the oem ones. The area where they start to taper is exactly the same, the piece that is longer is the shaft underneath the screw-head itself, but before the seating area. So, effectively, the head sits higher in the screw tower, and there is less pressure put on the spring, washer, and o-ring assembly (seems to make them easier to turn), but seats just like a stock screw. I think. When I installed them, I check them against the stock units, in the mouth of the carb, and it seemed like they were all protruding the same amount when fully seated. I'm 99 percent sure the extra length is a non-issue. All plugs are equally sooty with this setup, which leads me to think that everything is copacetic. I'm going to pull the carbs today, and install the longer screws in the two inboard carbs, and go from there.
And, just to make sure, fewer turns out from seated = leaner mix? Or is it the other way around for CV carbs? More turns out = leaner mix?
I'm slowly starting to figure out how these magical mystery fuel metering devices work. Still makes me want to switch over to fuel injection. Give me a fuel map, spark map, and a laptop, and watch the tuning commence! Funny, that I can proficiently tune a FI system, but am mostly lost when it comes to carbs. Who knows, maybe I'll try a Megasquirt one day.
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I had to choke the crap out of it to get it to idle at 1200-1300 rpm. Plugs are sooty as can be though, so I'm thinking the extra fuel provided by the choke circuit was enough to prevent any lean condition while running in the garage. Only ran it for about 30 seconds to a minute each time, maybe seven or eight tries. Still has a few minor oil leaks, so I wasn't about to try a road test. You don't happen to know of a west coast supplier that could get these things to be quick? Z1 and Mike's XS have them at about the same price, but those guys are in NY and FL, respectively.
