Need a home for your spare carb set 
:lol:
I'm about to embark on the same process.... good luck with it
:lol:I'm about to embark on the same process.... good luck with it
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With the stage 3 kit, K&N pods and quality pipe, I've found that the 138 main, jet needle e-clip in position 4 from the top, and stock 15 pilot jet, work well much more often than not.
Be sure to also remove the floatbowl vent lines as I mentioned before.
I'd initially set the pilot fuel screws to 1 1/2 out from LIGHTLY seated and go from there. Do what the minimal throttle position tests/plug reads tell you to do.
I set the side air screws to 1 3/4 and then fine tune using the highest rpm method when ready.
Whenever you change or disturb the jet needles on VM carbs, you must re-bench synch and vacuum synch.
After the jetting is right, play with the advance timing as I mentioned to get the most out of the bike.
Be sure to also remove the floatbowl vent lines as I mentioned before.
I'd initially set the pilot fuel screws to 1 1/2 out from LIGHTLY seated and go from there. Do what the minimal throttle position tests/plug reads tell you to do.
I set the side air screws to 1 3/4 and then fine tune using the highest rpm method when ready.
Whenever you change or disturb the jet needles on VM carbs, you must re-bench synch and vacuum synch.
After the jetting is right, play with the advance timing as I mentioned to get the most out of the bike.
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
not to but in but Keith im ordering those jets for MY bike as we speak..and i cant decide ...125 or 127.5?? or bigger still??
Thanks
TCK
Thanks
TCK
No way to know for sure. I'd probably go with the 127.5 unless you ride in mostly higher elevations. If you're in richer conditions, then I'd probably go with the 125.
Only testing will tell.
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
127.5's on the way...Im sure ill be hittin you up for info on our thread in a couple days...my intake rings and jets should show up by thursday or fri...
Thanks again sir!!
S
spdjunkie
Guest
Good suggestion except they don't sell them any more.
Sorry, was not aware.
At least now there's no chance of sucking mercury into the intakes. :-D I did build a guage manometer from guages at grainger with decent results, but if I had it to do over, I'd have used liquid filled guages.
S
slamonte
Guest
Keith, a couple questions before we start.
1. is there a chart or something that shows mukuni numbering of jets versus DJ? It always help me to eliminate any confusion that crops in.
2. 125 & 127.5 I assume relate to the mukuni numbering. What is the equivalent DJ?
3. do you want me to start with the mukuni equivant of 127.5?
Thanks
1. is there a chart or something that shows mukuni numbering of jets versus DJ? It always help me to eliminate any confusion that crops in.
2. 125 & 127.5 I assume relate to the mukuni numbering. What is the equivalent DJ?
3. do you want me to start with the mukuni equivant of 127.5?
Thanks
Yes, there's a chart around but I'm not sure where it is.
A 127.5 is a Mikuni jet. Mikuni jets change in increments of 2.5
I'd try the 127.5
Hey, wait a minute.
slamonte, you said you were going with the DJ kit.
Two of you asking questions in the same thread can cause confusion, especially whem I'm not awake yet but in a rush to get out the door.:lol:
For your 1000, I'd try either the 127.5 or the 130. No way to be sure which.
Rule of thumb, go with the richer jet to start, as long as it's a reasonable choice.
slamonte, you said you were going with the DJ kit.
Two of you asking questions in the same thread can cause confusion, especially whem I'm not awake yet but in a rush to get out the door.:lol:
For your 1000, I'd try either the 127.5 or the 130. No way to be sure which.
Rule of thumb, go with the richer jet to start, as long as it's a reasonable choice.
S
slamonte
Guest
Help!
Help!
I got my DJ3 kit in today. I'm confused to wether I need to drill out my slide. A drill bit came with the kit, but the instructions are very vaige. I want to make sure before proceeding. You'd think with the cost of these jets you'd get a better install document. The pages are poorly zeroxed and out of sequence. Dynojet does not have an online instruction that I could find.
I have a 1979 GD1000E with VM carbs.
Help!
I got my DJ3 kit in today. I'm confused to wether I need to drill out my slide. A drill bit came with the kit, but the instructions are very vaige. I want to make sure before proceeding. You'd think with the cost of these jets you'd get a better install document. The pages are poorly zeroxed and out of sequence. Dynojet does not have an online instruction that I could find.
I have a 1979 GD1000E with VM carbs.
G
Guest
Guest
The drill bit and sheet metal screw is for taking off the factory "caps" that may or may not be on your pilot air screws (the ones underneath). If the caps are already off, disregard those parts.
I think you will want to use the 138's in the kit.
I think you will want to use the 138's in the kit.
S
slamonte
Guest
Thanks RenoBruce!
By the way, I love all the photos of your bike up on your site. You've done an excellent job of restoring your motorcycle.
Steve
By the way, I love all the photos of your bike up on your site. You've done an excellent job of restoring your motorcycle.
Steve
G
Guest
Guest
Thanks, Steve! It was definitely a "group project" with all the help I received from this great site, just as you are now.
Slamonte, the drill bit is for removing any caps over the side air screws and/or pilot fuel screws.
Best starting (and hopefully final) jetting for your model/mods with the stage 3 DJ kit...
138 main, jet needle e-clip in the 4th position from the top AND be sure the two factory plastic spacers go back as per factory order...thicker on top the e-clip and thinner under the e-clip.
Be sure the carbs were bench synched well, floats were set to .94" and REMOVE those 2 floatbowl vent lines to avoid fuel starvation.
For the pilot circuit, the stock 15 pilot jet should work with only richer- than-factory adjustments made to the pilot fuel screws underneath. I'd initially set the pilot fuel screws to 1 1/2 turns out.
Initially set the side air screws to 1 3/4 turns out. These should then be fine tuned at the right time (see my earlier post) by the highest rpm method.
All other basic tuning must be done first before tuning the screws, or later, synching the carbs.
HIGHEST RPM METHOD...warm up bike fully, place on centerstand, set idle to the factory recommended 1,000 rpm, start at any carb, slowly turn a side air screw in either direction until you achieve maximum rpm, once max rpm is achieved return the base idle to 1,000 by using the idle adjuster knob, repeat to other 3 carbs.
You can now vacuum tool synch, after letting the bike cool a little (if you think it's hot). Always use two large fans when adjusting/synching.
After the synch, double check the air screw settings by doing the highest rpm method again. There may be little or no change but it only takes a couple minutes to know it's right.
Test performance and chop off/get plug reads at minimal throttle (pilot), 1/3 throttle (jet needle), and full throttle for the main circuit (main jet).
I test the pilot circuit at a steady cruise of about 35/40 in 4th/5th gear. I go a few miles at this throttle position. I do a couple of approx' 1 mile runs for the needles. Same for the mains. Please be careful when high speed testing.
Use freshly cleaned plugs as long as they're in good condition/correct heat range. A good gap is .027", which is right in the middle of factory recommended. You must be sure spark is good and blue. Clean connections, etc, are a must so you don't confuse jetting issues with a weak spark.
If you have any issues, let us know and we can help you with adjustments. The pilot fuel screws generally will need some fine tuning. Hopefully the jet needle will be set right because changing their position is by far the most work on your carbs, requiring throttle shaft, etc, removal, and new bench and vacuum tool synchs. The mains should be good based on past experience.
Be aware that some issues, such as excessive decel' popping, may be caused by header leaks due to poor fitting gaskets. Don't blame the jetting unless you KNOW the gaskets are sealing well. Some decel' pop is acceptable in my opinion. That's just part of increasing performance sometimes.
Any significant higher idling (once warmed up) issues means you have intake leak(s). As part of ANY carb work, the manifold o-rings should always be replaced and the manifiolds inspected too. I always remove those Phillips manifold screws and replace with Allens. Then you can torque the manifolds to approx' 6 ft/lb. I also apply a coat of high temp bearing grease to the new o-rings to help them last.
Good luck.
Best starting (and hopefully final) jetting for your model/mods with the stage 3 DJ kit...
138 main, jet needle e-clip in the 4th position from the top AND be sure the two factory plastic spacers go back as per factory order...thicker on top the e-clip and thinner under the e-clip.
Be sure the carbs were bench synched well, floats were set to .94" and REMOVE those 2 floatbowl vent lines to avoid fuel starvation.
For the pilot circuit, the stock 15 pilot jet should work with only richer- than-factory adjustments made to the pilot fuel screws underneath. I'd initially set the pilot fuel screws to 1 1/2 turns out.
Initially set the side air screws to 1 3/4 turns out. These should then be fine tuned at the right time (see my earlier post) by the highest rpm method.
All other basic tuning must be done first before tuning the screws, or later, synching the carbs.
HIGHEST RPM METHOD...warm up bike fully, place on centerstand, set idle to the factory recommended 1,000 rpm, start at any carb, slowly turn a side air screw in either direction until you achieve maximum rpm, once max rpm is achieved return the base idle to 1,000 by using the idle adjuster knob, repeat to other 3 carbs.
You can now vacuum tool synch, after letting the bike cool a little (if you think it's hot). Always use two large fans when adjusting/synching.
After the synch, double check the air screw settings by doing the highest rpm method again. There may be little or no change but it only takes a couple minutes to know it's right.
Test performance and chop off/get plug reads at minimal throttle (pilot), 1/3 throttle (jet needle), and full throttle for the main circuit (main jet).
I test the pilot circuit at a steady cruise of about 35/40 in 4th/5th gear. I go a few miles at this throttle position. I do a couple of approx' 1 mile runs for the needles. Same for the mains. Please be careful when high speed testing.
Use freshly cleaned plugs as long as they're in good condition/correct heat range. A good gap is .027", which is right in the middle of factory recommended. You must be sure spark is good and blue. Clean connections, etc, are a must so you don't confuse jetting issues with a weak spark.
If you have any issues, let us know and we can help you with adjustments. The pilot fuel screws generally will need some fine tuning. Hopefully the jet needle will be set right because changing their position is by far the most work on your carbs, requiring throttle shaft, etc, removal, and new bench and vacuum tool synchs. The mains should be good based on past experience.
Be aware that some issues, such as excessive decel' popping, may be caused by header leaks due to poor fitting gaskets. Don't blame the jetting unless you KNOW the gaskets are sealing well. Some decel' pop is acceptable in my opinion. That's just part of increasing performance sometimes.
Any significant higher idling (once warmed up) issues means you have intake leak(s). As part of ANY carb work, the manifold o-rings should always be replaced and the manifiolds inspected too. I always remove those Phillips manifold screws and replace with Allens. Then you can torque the manifolds to approx' 6 ft/lb. I also apply a coat of high temp bearing grease to the new o-rings to help them last.
Good luck.
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