Thanks Brian. Yeah, I’ll be ordering the 530 xring and new sprockets that Ed recommended, and the breaker/riveter tool.
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Chain missing an O-ring.
- Thread starter Rich82GS750TZ
- Start date
While new sprockets and chain are in transit, figured I'd get ready for them.
Old 630 chain, lub-dubbing along.
Now I know why. There were lots of links at least this stiff:
Old 630 chain, lub-dubbing along.
Now I know why. There were lots of links at least this stiff:
OK, I?m back with the final report. New 530 X-ring chain and new sprockets installed. All went well. erm.... mostly.
I found what I thought was the most thorough video tutorial for using the chain tool I bought. Happens to be from Delboy?s Garage. I know Andy of Andy?s Motorcycle Obsessions has no good words for Delboy, but anyway, here that is.
I forget to measure the head of the pins to be flared before I started flaring so I measured the pins of one of the removed links at 5.2mm. When I got the pins flared to where the flaring tool seemed to bottom out, I reached 5.475mm. I believe that should be more than adequate, but please someone tell me if it?s not. This is my first time doing this. Prior to flaring, I pressed the plate on exactly as far as the neighboring links. And after flaring, measured that as still good.
I?ll explain my ?mostly? remark. From the chart above that gave me the 530 conversion numbers, rounding up to the next even whole number of links should have put me at 116, meaning I?d have to take 4 out of the 120 link chain I bought. Having practiced with the chain break tool on the removed 630 chain, I set to work on shortening the new 530 chain. And immediately started dremelling the wrong pin. :sorrow: Welp, 114 it is, I guess. 114 was doable, slack is set properly, but it definitely puts me at the tight end of the chain adjustment range. Chains stretch though, right.
So, hopefully the worst part of this is maybe the first time I change rear tires, I have to take the front sprocket off it?s shaft to give me enough slack to take the chain off the rear sprocket? We?ll see, I guess.
Chain came out of the package all greased up. Should I just run it like this, or clean all that off and re-lube it? Is kerosene still the best thing to clean a chain. I promise not to soak this chain in a pan of kero for days or weeks.
Time to go for a ride. Thanks all!
Nicely done, Rich!
I have a donated 630 chain from MrBill on my bike. We were attempting to do the 530 conversion when the forward sprocket would not budge. We didn?t have a air compressor to zap the sprocket nut off so MrBill gave me his old 630 chain which was in better shape than my original...the links were tight like you showed in the video.
I still need to do mine...but watching you quickly do yours makes it look so simple. We have a drum rear brake on our ?T? so that did not hold as well as a disk. What/how did you get from sprocket off if not without an air gun?
Ed
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I have a donated 630 chain from MrBill on my bike. We were attempting to do the 530 conversion when the forward sprocket would not budge. We didn?t have a air compressor to zap the sprocket nut off so MrBill gave me his old 630 chain which was in better shape than my original...the links were tight like you showed in the video.
I still need to do mine...but watching you quickly do yours makes it look so simple. We have a drum rear brake on our ?T? so that did not hold as well as a disk. What/how did you get from sprocket off if not without an air gun?
Ed
****
Having just recently torn this engine down, (Remember, it's the donor I bought from Norm back in April) Both of the front sprockets on my blown up engine and the one on the donor came off with very little effort after hammering back the locking tab of the lock washer. They were both just barely snug. When I remounted the front sprocket after the rebuild and today, I put the bike on its wheels and had my wife stand on the brake pedal. Had no problem torqueing the big nut to 90 lb-ft (IIRC). Then peened over the lock washer tabs on 2 sides. Is 2 sides overkill? I don't know. But I can't think that it would hurt. Any Objections?
Just went for a 2 hour ride and...Wow! I can’t describe the overall handling improvement from the new chain and sprockets. Just...Wow! The rear end is just so tight and smooth and sure-footed. Just...Wow!
Oh yeah! Good ol Norm!
MrBill and I put a crowbar in the rear rim and still couldn’t get it to budge. That sprocket is definitely factory torqued.
Ed
****
I daresay there are more than a few things on mine that are sub-optimal to put it mildly. Gradual degradation is hard to detect until it's fixed
Rob, sorry, I really don’t know for sure. 79 is a difference engine 8valve from my 16 valve. Probably different front sprocket to rear axle length. You’ll have to do your own research. The chain I bought would be long enough. You’ll have to cut it down. Not sure about the sprockets and any possible spacer needed. Z1 may have the info you need.
1979 750E
Stock specs
Front sprocket: 15T
Rear sprocket: 41T
Chain (630): 96 links
Stock ratio: 41/15 = 2.73
With 530, to match the same diameter, we add 3T to the front sprocket, so that comes out to 18T.
Rear sprocket = 18 x 2.73 = 49.2 (use 49T rear sprocket)
A 630 chain is 6/8" between links. So, 96 x 6/8 = 72" long chain
A 530 chain is 5/8" between links. So 72 x 8/5 = 115.2 (use a 116 link 530 chain)
Summary
18T front sprocket
49T rear sprocket
116 link 530 chain.
You should only use chain lube approved for O-ring chains, normal Roller Chain chain lube eats the O-rings, and causes many O-ring chain failures. On an O-ring chain, you only lube the sprockets and where the chain hits them. You can do that with a brush, bike on center stand, and in neutral. Not much lube is needed either.
