Clearcoat removal question

[willie]

So, I'm about to start another project. This one involves restoring an '82 GS1100G that I will be taking delivery of tomorrow. In the pictures the seller posted, I can see that the clear coat on the engine side covers has cracked to the point where there are large areas of bare aluminum. Surprisingly, the bare aluminum doesn't look very oxidized. Naturally, the 1st step to restoring the original appearance of the side covers is to remove the remaining clear coat. I do not want to use an abrasive because I'd like to maintain the original brushed look of the aluminum. That said, what product will remove the clear coat without damaging the aluminum underneath?
Thanks in advance for any responses I get.

 

[Nessism]

Paint stripper. The strong stuff, which is removed by mineral spirts (paint thinner) is typically stronger than the water rinse type.

If you have a buffer of some sort, including a car buffer, you can bolt on a sisal polishing wheel and use black cutting compound. The resulting finish is very similar to the OEM finish. Fluffy buffing pads don't remove corrosion as easily, and when done they leave a brighter finish which it seems you don't want.

 

[willie]

Thanks Ed. I appreciate your advice. Fortunately, I have a very nice buffer, a Cyclo that I've gotten a lot of use out of polishing antique aluminum boats.

 

[Guest]

Loctite makes a stripper also called chisel which is a spray on aerosol it is either named Loctite 790 or Loctite 79040 wherever you might live. It is a stripper/ gasket remover but it does contain Methylene Chloride which is considered a cancer causing agent so beware and use a mask and proper gloves. IMHO it is probably the best clear coat stripper you can find. Spray it on, wash it off and the clear coat is gone.

 

[sacruickshank]

Loctite makes a stripper also called chisel which is a spray on aerosol it is either named Loctite 790 or Loctite 79040 wherever you might live. It is a stripper/ gasket remover

Do you have any info if it works on 40 year old petrified gaskets? I'd love to find something that dissolves them, but it's usually a process of chems, propane, scraping, and abrasives. The best abrasives are rotating "scotchbrite" wheels for a dremel, but they wear quickly and become expensive.

 

[Guest]

Do you have any info if it works on 40 year old petrified gaskets? I'd love to find something that dissolves them, but it's usually a process of chems, propane, scraping, and abrasives. The best abrasives are rotating "scotchbrite" wheels for a dremel, but they wear quickly and become expensive.

Don't know but it is serious medicine on old paint. Not that expensive so worth a try on gaskets. Very hard to come by here in Canada as it contains methylene chloride and is banned as a stripper.

 

[wyly]

Something that may work, oven cleaner.

The suggestion came too late for me to try when I was removing a clear anodized coat from my wheels but others say it worked for them.

 

[Nessism]

Loctite makes a stripper also called chisel which is a spray on aerosol it is either named Loctite 790 or Loctite 79040 wherever you might live. It is a stripper/ gasket remover but it does contain Methylene Chloride which is considered a cancer causing agent so beware and use a mask and proper gloves. IMHO it is probably the best clear coat stripper you can find. Spray it on, wash it off and the clear coat is gone.

Methylene chloride is good $hit. Highly recommended. Hobbyist guys like us that don't use the stuff regularly don't have a whole lot to worry about. Just stand back if the fumes are feeling overwhelming while working with the stuff.

 

[oldGSfan]

I soak the part in hot water for a few hours if it'll come off and fit in a bucket. If not, I use paint stripper dabbed on with a small paintbrush nice and thick. There is a time factor using stripper, if you wait too long they harden back up a bit. The water method really works well, often it just needs a putty knife and scotchbrite to get what doesn't come off in chunks. That's on gaskets that were put on dry anyway, or at least without a gnarly sealant. My '66 Norton's gaskets peeled right off.

As for clearcoat, stripper works, and also so does oven cleaner but it's lye which is caustic to aluminum so don't leave on long. I've done this way being careful many times, no issues. The advantage is it's cheap, find at dollar store.

Do you have any info if it works on 40 year old petrified gaskets? I'd love to find something that dissolves them, but it's usually a process of chems, propane, scraping, and abrasives. The best abrasives are rotating "scotchbrite" wheels for a dremel, but they wear quickly and become expensive.

 

[Grimly]

Methylene chloride is good $hit. Highly recommended. Hobbyist guys like us that don't use the stuff regularly don't have a whole lot to worry about. Just stand back if the fumes are feeling overwhelming while working with the stuff.

Use in a well ventilated place, or outdoors, though. That shyt can kill you and I like the stuff for its efficacy, so I'm not being a scaremonger about it.
Last time I used it on some wheels I made sure there was a flow of fresh air through the shop.
http://www.slate.com/articles/news_..._paint_thinners_why_has.html?via=gdpr-consent

 

[willie]

Thanks guys. I picked the G up this morning and hope to start working on it in the not too distant future. I'm planning on starting a resto thread in the appropriate area.

 

[ItsBork]

Just want to toss out a recommendation.

Aircraft brand remover is insanely good. I've seen it rip 3 layers of clear, 3 layers of color, and 3 layers of primer all in one go. Spread it on, let it sit, wipe it off.

Funny side note, it is often listed as simply "Aircraft Remover". Don't get caught at the airport with it!

 

[willie]

LOL. Sounds just like what I need.
For the clearcoat.
Thanks

 

[jsandidge]

Just want to toss out a recommendation.

Aircraft brand remover is insanely good. I've seen it rip 3 layers of clear, 3 layers of color, and 3 layers of primer all in one go. Spread it on, let it sit, wipe it off.

Funny side note, it is often listed as simply "Aircraft Remover". Don't get caught at the airport with it!

That was true in the past. It has been re-formulated. Doesn't work worth a squat anymore.

 

[willie]

Wow! Thanks for the update. Thought I'd check back here before placing an order. Glad I did.

 

[storm 64]

I've always just sanded the clear coat off. I never used any chemicals. I just use a Scotch Bright Pad. And for the corners and reseses I use a Scotch Bright "Ball or Flob" with the Dremal. The clear coat is not that thick were you'd need a stripper or any type of chemical... Also, I'm sure you're not set up for proper disposal of the chemical waste. Chemicals are bad for the environment... My .02

 

[Who Dat?]

Funny side note, it is often listed as simply "Aircraft Remover". Don't get caught at the airport with it!

Even funnier: read the label, it says "Not to be used on aircraft."

 

[willie]

I considered removing it with a Scotch Bright pad but didn't want to damage the underlying finish. I agree with your comment though re: having to deal with the environmentally hazardous waste. In addition, I have enough chemicals on the shelves of my shop that I'd prefer to be without. None the less, I would like to remove the coating without damaging the finish underneath.

 

[sacruickshank]

I soak the part in hot water for a few hours if it'll come off and fit in a bucket. If not, I use paint stripper dabbed on with a small paintbrush nice and thick. There is a time factor using stripper, if you wait too long they harden back up a bit. The water method really works well, often it just needs a putty knife and scotchbrite to get what doesn't come off in chunks. That's on gaskets that were put on dry anyway, or at least without a gnarly sealant. My '66 Norton's gaskets peeled right off.

Thanks. Soaking in hot water may be the one thing I haven't tried yet. Picking up the next project today ('83 GS650L) and it will like have a petrified valve cover gasket.