C
CocoTiTs
Guest
This is great. Ty I haven't jumped into my wiring yet but I'm sure this will help when it comes time!
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V
ValorSolo
Guest
I found a error in the running lights mod. I actually had/have several issues, but only one with the diagram.
The two wires running up to the indicator lights in the cluster need to be run on the circuits between the switch and relays.
The old diagram has them on the circuits between the relays and the turn signal lights. This has them burning while the running lights are on.
I've made the correction to the diagram but want to wait and see if I have more changes, before uploading it.
Tomorrow, I will hook up the stock turn signals and test. If they work, the aftermarket lights I used today will need resistors.
If the stock lights don't work, I'll replace the flasher and try again.
The two wires running up to the indicator lights in the cluster need to be run on the circuits between the switch and relays.
The old diagram has them on the circuits between the relays and the turn signal lights. This has them burning while the running lights are on.
I've made the correction to the diagram but want to wait and see if I have more changes, before uploading it.
Tomorrow, I will hook up the stock turn signals and test. If they work, the aftermarket lights I used today will need resistors.
If the stock lights don't work, I'll replace the flasher and try again.
V
ValorSolo
Guest
Everything seems to work okay. I need to add a couple resistors for the aftermarket lights.
I'll make a guide for that too, once I've got it sorted.
The diagram is good now, I've uploaded it and replaced the old one.
I'll make a guide for that too, once I've got it sorted.
The diagram is good now, I've uploaded it and replaced the old one.
G
Guest
Guest
ValorSolo,
Let me also add my appreciation!!
:dancing:
Let me also add my appreciation!!
:dancing:
V
ValorSolo
Guest
I'm just glad that so many have found it useful.
So you are all very welcome.
So you are all very welcome.
V
ValorSolo
Guest
Added GS1150EF. I'm not sure what all years it covers.
Thanks for the help cableguy.
Thanks for the help cableguy.
C
cableguy
Guest
No, thank YOU! :dancing:
V
ValorSolo
Guest
I've just installed GIMP 2.8 on Ubuntu and want to give the new interface a good test drive.
So does anyone need any diagrams made? I'm also wanting to learn PDF creation on Linux.
So does anyone need any diagrams made? I'm also wanting to learn PDF creation on Linux.
G
Guest
Guest
1982 GS550M would be cool. I have the B&W one but color would make life easy.
C
crazy5
Guest
Just wanted to thank you again for doing this... These are so awesome!
V
ValorSolo
Guest
Just to save on the trouble of hunting one down, could you send me the one you have?
Post it or PM, either way is fine and in any format. Or just post a link to one online.
S
SVSooke
Guest
Another thank you to ValorSolo from these.Seems I did need the 83-6 750 diagram I asked for.Helped me greatly in figuring out that wiring in the 83 750 AGC fuse box is the same as the wires to my 78 1000's.
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S
Sojourner
Guest
Could you please do one for the '80 GS1100E? I have a few wires without mates and I'm rather curious to know where they should go.
Thanks!
Here's a link to the one out on BassCliff's website, but it doesn't specify which trim level/model it's for (E, L, etc.)
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GS1100wiringdia_.jpg
Thanks!
Here's a link to the one out on BassCliff's website, but it doesn't specify which trim level/model it's for (E, L, etc.)
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GS1100wiringdia_.jpg
M
MisterCinders
Guest
Thanks for these awesome diagrams. In the first one for the 78 750, I think you have the fuse backwards. Comparing it to a stock diagram, the red wire to all the systems should be on the same side of the fuse as the rectifier. As I read your diagram, blowing that fuse just limits the power draw to the battery, but doesn't kill it.
Steve
GS Whisperer
I have not consulted a "stock" diagram, but your statement really puzzles me. :-k
EDIT: even after looking at a "stock" diagram, I am still confused.
The fuse does not care whether it is fed from the top (in the diagram) or from the bottom. In fact, in normal operation, current goes through that fuse in both directions, at various times.
After looking at the stock diagram, the colored version is identical.
The part that confuses me is the "limits the power draw to the battery, but doesn't kill it".
First of all, what is "power draw to the battery"? When you first turn the ignition key ON, current goes through the fuse from the battery to the bike to get everything going. Once the engine is running, the stator and R/R should be powering everything. If there is more output than the bike needs, any excess current goes back through the fuse the other direction, to CHARGE the battery. If the fuse blows, you will still be running on the battery, at least until it runs down.
The other part is "but doesn't kill it". What is supposed to be killed?
.
M
MisterCinders
Guest
Hurm, the service manual diagram does match the color one, but the wire diagrams in my Clymer's (which I have not scanned), and the later fuse block diagrams put the relevant fuse in a different spot.
I agree that the direction of current is not the issue, but the fused path itself puzzles me. Here is the segment from the color diagram at issue:
Note that the fuse sits between the rectifier and the rest of the wiring. The red wire from the battery bypasses the fuse and goes to the starter relay, which matches both diagrams. The red wire connecting the battery to ignition switch, lights, etc., ties in to that feed before the fuse. So if the fuse blows, that connection doesn't break the link to the battery feed.
On the other diagram I have, the red wire to the ignition switch splits off the red wire between the fuse and the rectifier -- i.e., on the other side of the fuse from the battery. So removing/blowing the fuse cuts power from the battery.
Look at the red wire path in the later 750 that has a fuse block. If you follow it from the battery to the main fuse, the only feed that does not go through the fuse is the starter relay leg. Everything else needs that fuse to keep a powered connection to the battery.
Not saying I know better, but the color diagram looks like the ignition switch stays powered (by the battery) without that fuse. What am I missing?
On the other diagram I have, the red wire to the ignition switch splits off the red wire between the fuse and the rectifier -- i.e., on the other side of the fuse from the battery. So removing/blowing the fuse cuts power from the battery.
Look at the red wire path in the later 750 that has a fuse block. If you follow it from the battery to the main fuse, the only feed that does not go through the fuse is the starter relay leg. Everything else needs that fuse to keep a powered connection to the battery.
Not saying I know better, but the color diagram looks like the ignition switch stays powered (by the battery) without that fuse. What am I missing?
Steve
GS Whisperer
Apparently, ... NOTHING.
BassCliff has a copy of a factory manual on his site. I just looked at it, the only fuse on the diagram is between the R/R output and the battery.
The connection from the battery to the ignition switch is not routed through the fuse.
.
M
MisterCinders
Guest
Apparently, ... NOTHING.
BassCliff has a copy of a factory manual on his site. I just looked at it, the only fuse on the diagram is between the R/R output and the battery.
The connection from the battery to the ignition switch is not routed through the fuse.
.
The actual wiring on my 78 750 runs through the fuse to the ignition switch.
The other diagrams on Basscliff's site also power the ignition switch through the fuse.
Am I misreading this diagram? It sure looks like the ignition in this setup continues to draw power when that fuse blows, at least until the battery dies, since the blown fuse cuts off the charging system.
If so, isn't that really dumb, since you would run down the battery every time you blow the fuse?
M
mrl1000l
Guest
I can't thank you enough for creating these color wired diagrams. I'm trying to figure out how I can completely remove the "turn signal control unit" from my GS1000L, but I need a bit of help. I figure I can, jump the lines from the turn signals to the turn signal switch (black/blue to black, black/green to green). Then simply disconnect the 2 speedo wires, the power wire, and the ground wire from the control unit.
This is where it gets tricky for me, so I'm curious if anyone can shed some light. I guessing that I'll need to remove the orange power cable that goes through the center of the turn signal light switch and run that center pole on the switch to the light blue wire that goes to the "turn signal relay". (I based this on what I'm gathering from looking at other wire diagrams)
Other wiring diagrams I'm looking at have a turn signal switch which stays in it's position until returned to center. Effectively cancelling the signal. But the GS1000 is spring loaded to recenter, and you push the switch down to cancel. So where should I connect the Yellow/Brown cable from the Manual Cancelling Switch?
This is where it gets tricky for me, so I'm curious if anyone can shed some light. I guessing that I'll need to remove the orange power cable that goes through the center of the turn signal light switch and run that center pole on the switch to the light blue wire that goes to the "turn signal relay". (I based this on what I'm gathering from looking at other wire diagrams)
Other wiring diagrams I'm looking at have a turn signal switch which stays in it's position until returned to center. Effectively cancelling the signal. But the GS1000 is spring loaded to recenter, and you push the switch down to cancel. So where should I connect the Yellow/Brown cable from the Manual Cancelling Switch?
G
Guest
Guest
Can't believe I missed this thread. Fantastic pdf work, really appreciate the work done. Thanks.
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