Correct Way to Measure Chain Deflection/Brake Question

[cowboyup3371]

So I put the new tires back on my bike tonight and ran across a couple of concerns. After putting the front wheel back on, tightening everything up to only hand tight (haven't torqued it yet), I'm hearing a dragging sound coming from the right caliper. I know it is specifically that one because I took off both calipers and respun the wheel - no sound. Put the left one on and respun - no sound. Put only the right one on and respun and it's dragging. I'll do some searching in a few but because of my other question below I wanted to include it in case I don't find anything. Will bleeding the front brakes fix that drag or do I have something else wrong? I know the piston for that one didn't engage although I can move the pads in with a screwdriver and get a little play. I will say the left piston fully engaged but I pushed it back out with a screwdriver and like I said no sound is coming from that side.

For my second question, is this the right way to measure for the chain deflection? The Clymer's manual I have is hard to understand on this point. To me, it looks like I only have 3/4" movement (book calls for 3/4" to 1 3/16"). Again, back wheel isn't torqued down yet and I haven't checked to see if the rear brake is dragging yet. Even on the center stand the back tire is fully touching the ground. I don't know if that's a center stand issue or what. I'm thinking of putting a small block of wood under the center stand to give extra lift.

Many thanks to my daughter for helping me out here.

 

[posplayr]

might just be the pic but that chain looks rough .

Got any oil?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Yea I will clean it up and oil it after I know it is set right (just picked up some on Tuesday).

Am I measuring it right? Does it look like it is within the settings I'm supposed to have or should I tighten it up some more? Is it possible to get it too tight? What happens if I do?

 

[Steve]

The point where you want to measure your chain is when the two sprockets and the swingarm pivot are in a straight line.

That is when the chain will be the tightest, so make sure it's not binding there and you should be good.

.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Steve I'm lost. Can you please draw me a picture on that one?

 

[Steve]

Verbal picture:

Remove the cover over the front sprocket. Notice where the center of the shaft is that holds the sprocket, hold a string there. Pull the string back to the center of the rear axle. If the bike is on the centerstand, the string will be lower than the swingarm pivot as it goes by. This puts the three points (the countershaft, the swingarm pivot and the rear axle) in a triangle. Use a ratchet strap to pull the rear wheel up until the three points are in a straight line. This is when the chain is the tightest.

This is probably just a bit beyond where you normally load the suspension when you are riding, but it won't take much of a dip or a bump to get it there, so yes, it will happen often enough to worry about getting it right.

.

 

[cowboyup3371]

I think I understand. But then what do the chain tensioners do at the rear of the bike? According to the book, I'm supposed to tighten each side equally until I have that 3/4" to 1 3/16" setting.

 

[almarconi]

That chain looks shot..when was the last time it was replaced. I would also inspect your sprockets.

Here is a picture that may help:

 

[cowboyup3371]

That chain does need to be replaced and is on my list to be done this winter along with both sprockets. But thank you for the picture Almarconi, that helps explain whether I'm doing this right. Essentially, I don't measure from the bottom of the chain but from the top of it. The picture in the book was pretty fuzzy so I wasn't sure of what I was doing.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks all...got the chain set right I think.