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Fudge!!

This is the kind of thing I'm known for.
Hopefully, it happened at the end of the repair
 
This is the kind of thing I'm known for.
Hopefully, it happened at the end of the repair

I was just changing springs on my emulators?a fifteen minute job. Three hours later...

BTW, the fork caps for the 1100ES and E are different?and $40 each. It took those hours to modify an ?E? cap to work on the ?ES.?
 
Was the top triple clamp bolt loosened? If you don't undo the triple bolt it will prevent the cap from ever coming loose.

EDIT - on second look I see you were using a torque wrench so you were tightening the cap? That sucks, my sympathies.


Mark
 
Those should hand tighten except for the need to overcome spring tension. Also not sure why you would need a torque wrench? As was asked did you have the top cLamp loose?
 
That is an old broken torque wrench I was using for leverage. I was loosening. The top clamp was loose. I had to dig out the cap. It would not budge until the last of the lip was chiseled off.

If if they are to be finger tight I don?t know why they put a nut on there but I have to take responsibility regardless because I put it on.
 
Sh1t.
Out of curiosity what is the difference between the E and ES caps?

The ES has the o-ring higher on the cap and it is in a deeper and wider groove. I didn?t take the time to compare the tubes but the ES tube must narrow higher up than the E tube.
 
I've done that one. Had the same reaction. Preload set to minimum? Weight off front tire?
 
6ED69C29-EBDB-4700-8B5A-79CD2A6AC8FF by Gary L, on Flickr

I guess it was too tight

I can't say for sure, but that clamp bolt right around the area where the cap is looks like it is still tight. I don't see any clearance on the bolt and the clamps gap seems to be pulled in.

Since there is that O ring at the top of the cap, I don't think you need a whole lot of torque to secure it. So what was holding the cap that required so much torque to rip the cast nut right off. Rust in the threads?
 
I can't say for sure, but that clamp bolt right around the area where the cap is looks like it is still tight. I don't see any clearance on the bolt and the clamps gap seems to be pulled in.

Since there is that O ring at the top of the cap, I don't think you need a whole lot of torque to secure it. So what was holding the cap that required so much torque to rip the cast nut right off. Rust in the threads?

I promise I checked it. I still don?t know. It would not let go until the last piece of the lip was hammered off with a chisel. Didn?t make any sense to me but I was busy trying to figure out how to ride the next day. I?m not claiming any excuses on this one. I knew there was no reason for serious pressure but I obviously cranked it on when I put in my emulators. I hope someone has a cap lying around cheap or it?ll be $40 plus tax and shipping. The ?E? parts bike I pulled one from had one of the two really tight too so I left it and took the other side?and I didn?t put those in.
 
In the department of you learn something new every day ... I?ve never thought to loosen the yoke bolts when working with the caps , but it makes perfect sense. I?ve gotten lucky...
Glib, if 1150 caps will work I have a spare you can have. Same diameter fork as far as I know. Not sure of other details though.
 
In the department of you learn something new every day ... I?ve never thought to loosen the yoke bolts when working with the caps , but it makes perfect sense. I?ve gotten lucky...
Glib, if 1150 caps will work I have a spare you can have. Same diameter fork as far as I know. Not sure of other details though.

Kind offer Glen. Thank you. I checked the part numbers and they?re different though. Hopefully someone who has upgraded to newer forks will have kept their old ones. This is when you find out how much more rare the ESs are.
 
I've done that one. Had the same reaction. Preload set to minimum? Weight off front tire?

Yes to both. I must have just cranked it down without thinking of the consequences. Really I?d never imagine. My mouth must have been hanging open. 😱
 
I’ve never thought to loosen the yoke bolts when working with the caps , but it makes perfect sense. I’ve gotten lucky...

I just installed Sonic fork springs in my ZX6R a week ago. Those big, thin-wall fork tubes were completely pinched in by the top triple bolts and the caps would not move for anything until I unscrewed the pinch bolts (forgot to loosen the pinch bolt on the first tube...:o). Then they came loose with just a bump to break the connection loose and then finger tight after that. The smaller, heavy wall tubes on our GS's might not be so sensitive to the clamping forces, but I still undo the top triple bolts before unscrewing the caps.


Mark
 
Huh. Never seen that before.

Yep, I learned long ago to loosen the pinch bolts before removing and to install these things with little to no torque. I mean, why do so many people crank 'em in there so hard? Why do people think the fork caps are going to unscrew themselves, and how? It's a stationary assembly.
 
Huh. Never seen that before.

Yep, I learned long ago to loosen the pinch bolts before removing and to install these things with little to no torque. I mean, why do so many people crank 'em in there so hard? Why do people think the fork caps are going to unscrew themselves, and how? It's a stationary assembly.

I don’t know the answer for anyone but myself and it is simply that I did not think it through and it was a big ass nut and I cranked it down. I don’t even remember doing it but big nuts don’t usually mean hand tight. Also when you are working on something that can kill you if you get it wrong, it’s not hard to imagine that maybe tighter is better. That’s why I share my blunders. Maybe someone will avoid them as a result.
 
I don’t know the answer for anyone but myself and it is simply that I did not think it through and it was a big ass nut and I cranked it down. I don’t even remember doing it but big nuts don’t usually mean hand tight. Also when you are working on something that can kill you if you get it wrong, it’s not hard to imagine that maybe tighter is better. That’s why I share my blunders. Maybe someone will avoid them as a result.

Thanks for posting this thread. I can only imagine that you are 1 in 100 for posting such a booboo . I hope no one is attacking you rather trying to figure out how it happened.

sounds like you twisted off the nut tightening?
 
Well, I don't think it's a hard skill to learn how to estimate the maximum torque capacity of nuts and bolts, but there is a learning curve.
You'll never make that mistake again.
 
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