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Fudge!!

Thanks for posting this thread. I can only imagine that you are 1 in 100 for posting such a booboo . I hope no one is attacking you rather trying to figure out how it happened.

sounds like you twisted off the nut tightening?

Loosening. I was about to adjust my emulators. I did learn quite well however as when I just now removed the other one for a picture, it came off with ease. :rolleyes:
 
Well, I don't think it's a hard skill to learn how to estimate the maximum torque capacity of nuts and bolts, but there is a learning curve.
You'll never make that mistake again.

Years ago I did a head gasket on a Jaguar (to save money) and when I lifted the head I broke a plastic connector off the ac compressor. I had no idea how to fix it so it cost me $400 to get it fixed. Now I do my own ac work.

Nothing to do with torque but it puts a forty dollar f up in perspective.
 
Thanks for sharing. I will be replacing my fork springs soon and would not have thought to loosen the clamp bolt first.
 
In the department of you learn something new every day ... I’ve never thought to loosen the yoke bolts when working with the caps , but it makes perfect sense. I’ve gotten lucky...
Glib, if 1150 caps will work I have a spare you can have. Same diameter fork as far as I know. Not sure of other details though.

So it's a question mark now that "Ronnies" shows the same part number and bikebandit shows a different one. Think you could post a picture so we could compare?

Edit: Partzilla agrees with Ronnies BTW so I'm hopeful.
 
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Bikebandit obfuscates part numbers to discourage comparison shopping; they somehow convert Suzuki part numbers to their own doofy part numbers. If you're looking at the same part on a different fiche, it can show a different BikeBandit part number. This, along with their nutso pricing, is why I won't order from them.

Most other OEM Suzuki parts sources use the original Suzuki part numbers, so you can safely use these part numbers to cross-reference.


Here's the site I use most often -- there are several others:
https://www.onlinecycleparts.com

The Suzuki part number for this cap is: 51351-49540

To cross-reference the part number, punch it in here, and click search:
https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/suzuki_motorcycle

Then, click "Where Used" to see what other bikes the part is used on. In this case, it's 82-83 GS1100E and ES, as well as all variants of the 84-86 GS1150 (E, ES, ESF, ESG, etc).







I don’t know the answer for anyone but myself and it is simply that I did not think it through and it was a big ass nut and I cranked it down. I don’t even remember doing it but big nuts don’t usually mean hand tight. Also when you are working on something that can kill you if you get it wrong, it’s not hard to imagine that maybe tighter is better. That’s why I share my blunders. Maybe someone will avoid them as a result.

This is somewhat beside the mechanical point, but I think I owe you an apology -- for some reason, I automatically attributed the original overtorquing to the dreaded Previous Owner and not you, so my words were harsher than needed. Many thanks for sharing the problem so everyone can learn!
 
Last edited:
Bikebandit obfuscates part numbers to discourage comparison shopping; they somehow convert Suzuki part numbers to their own doofy part numbers. If you're looking at the same part on a different fiche, it can show a different BikeBandit part number. This, along with their nutso pricing, is why I won't order from them.

Most other OEM Suzuki parts sources use the original Suzuki part numbers, so you can safely use these part numbers to cross-reference.


Here's the site I use most often -- there are several others:
https://www.onlinecycleparts.com

The Suzuki part number for this cap is: 51351-49540

To cross-reference the part number, punch it in here, and click search:
https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/suzuki_motorcycle

Then, click "Where Used" to see what other bikes the part is used on. In this case, it's 82-83 GS1100E and ES, as well as all variants of the 84-86 GS1150 (E, ES, ESF, ESG, etc).









This is somewhat beside the mechanical point, but I think I owe you an apology -- for some reason, I automatically attributed the original overtorquing to the dreaded Previous Owner and not you, so my words were harsher than needed. Many thanks for sharing the problem so everyone can learn!

Nice resource!
Apology not needed but accepted in the spirit given. You are a generous asset as this (and my recent thread on trail braking) prove. Thank you for your input.
 
Glib, just fyi I could easily have done this to my KLR a short while ago. I changed the fork seals and had to remove that cap on top too. I actually made it a point to use the triple clamp to hold the tube from spinning so I could loosen that cap. Figured it would be better than clamping in a vice possibly damaging the tube. I never would have dreamed the cap could break like that.

Thanks for posting this. Now I know what could have happened.
 
Part is on its way. I'll PM you the tracking number later on this evening.

The part is making the rounds.... the cap is from the fork set I bought from TXgsrider last year to get the Sonic / emulator setup. Some parts swapping between forks ensued.......
 
Part is on its way. I'll PM you the tracking number later on this evening.

The part is making the rounds.... the cap is from the fork set I bought from TXgsrider last year to get the Sonic / emulator setup. Some parts swapping between forks ensued.......

I'm very happy to be a beneficiary of said swapping!!
 
Tracking number sent via PM.

As I said in a PM to Glib, I?ve been on both both the giving and receiving ends of generosity of this great group. I?m glad to help.
 
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