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Getting ready to dump in trash

  • Thread starter Thread starter myown550
  • Start date Start date
Ok guys, just ran the numbers on the caps
#1 cilynder = 9.6
#2 cilynder = 9.8
#3 cilynder = 14.8 +/-
#4 cilynder = 0 ohms
Any input fellas? Thanks
 
Try a gravity bottle to directly feed the carbs yet?
She is at least firing and trying..right?
It kinda sounds like its just not getting gas to the carbs. To bypass the petcock will tell that story in short order. Be sure to put a bolt in the vacuum line to seal that as a possible vacuum leak.
 
Also check the resistance between 1 and 4..and 2 and 3.

set a probe in 1 and 4 and see what it says for resistance..then the same between 2 and 3.


If I am remebering the test right, you also slip a match book paper between the points to ensure the coils arent grounded out while testing.
 
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If you have a multimeter test the caps first. Did Steve offer to come by? I'd take him up. He would probably be able to get you sorted pretty quickly.

There have to be some members in the Chicago area - a lot of them. If you go to Community on the tool bar and click on "members list", you can do an advanced search and put chicago in the location search. I get 29 results. Joe Nardy, MisterCinders and Nerobro are all in the area and are active on the forums. Might want to PM one of them, offer beer or other frosty beverage of choice and see if they'd be willing to have a look.

Oh, and there's a "GS Chicago" group:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/group.php?groupid=53
 
PM Rustybronco...he talked me thru the variious check on the phone once..but i must admit that was a while ago and i need a refresher course myself!!!
 
If I am remebering the test right, you also slip a match book paper between the points to ensure the coils arent grounded out while testing.

Probably not on an 81, Chuck ;)

Ok guys, just ran the numbers on the caps
#1 cilynder = 9.6
#2 cilynder = 9.8
#3 cilynder = 14.8 +/-
#4 cilynder = 0 ohms
Any input fellas? Thanks

#3 is a bit high, but shouldn't be enough to stop it from sparking. I'm assuming those are in kOhms (i.e., your DMM is set to say, 20kOhms). Look at the copper at the end of the wire - if you see any green like it's corroding cut 1/4" off before you screw the plug caps back in. While the caps are off you can check 1-4 and 2-3 resistance directly at the wires, should be 10-15kOhms IIRC.

Honestly I think it's carb adjustments and not electrical, but while you've got them off...
 
Ok,
one of the caps wasn't reading at all. After i removed the little screws inside the caps they were full of carbon and only 3 of them had a little springy inside the other was missing it. I am currently installing copper wires inside my stepdad is helping me with this since he's very familiar with electrical stuff. Now i am reading 0.4 ohms on the one we just did. My question is will this damage the spark plug or anything else in the electrical system?
 
Clean them all and use a spring from an ink pen for the missing one. Nothin will be hurt by replacing the resistors with solid rod or wire replacements. Your doing well..just be patient and stay the course.
 
I wouldn't think so, though, it might not be as robust under vibration. For testing purposes it would certainly be fine until you can get a new caps to replace them.


Ok,
one of the caps wasn't reading at all. After i removed the little screws inside the caps they were full of carbon and only 3 of them had a little springy inside the other was missing it. I am currently installing copper wires inside my stepdad is helping me with this since he's very familiar with electrical stuff. Now i am reading 0.4 ohms on the one we just did. My question is will this damage the spark plug or anything else in the electrical system?
 
Clean them all and use a spring from an ink pen for the missing one.
Ok i will but my stepdad wants to know what is the purpose of the resistors inside? Cause he says he can make fix them to no resistance at all but wants to know if it will cause any damage? Thanks
 
The reistors were there to eliminate noise..like the whirring sound you heard with the old tube type radios. Then came along resistor plugs and different wire ends.

Trust me here..I have 6 bikes and all 6 have 1/8 brass rods replacing the resistors..done and never to be a problem again. No damage will result.
 
The reistors were there to eliminate noise..like the whirring sound you heard with the old tube type radios. Then came along resistor plugs and different wire ends.

Trust me here..I have 6 bikes and all 6 have 1/8 brass rods replacing the resistors..done and never to be a problem again.
awesome buddy. I do trust you TRUST ME :)
 
Ink pen springs and brass ( or HEAVY guage copper ) and make new resistor replacements the same length as the ceramic ones.
 
Ok guys,
all went well replaced the caps checked spark nice and blue and you can just feel the strenght in it, bike fires up runs again 10 secs and died out. I removed the plugs they were wet and black. I cleaned them started again ran for 15 seconds and died. Tried starting it again with full choke no throttle at all and it backfired really loud. It has never backfired before.
 
Is it 10 seconds of strong running and a sudden death, or is it sputtering out?

Do you have extra plugs? If so you should use those to check for spark again immediately after it dies. Wet and black sounds like fouling to me. Do they all look like that? Maybe too much fuel? You should only ever start the bike with no throttle. How many turns are your idle screws backed out from lightly seated?

Did you bench sync the carbs the last time you had them apart?
 
There is a fuel control problem in the carbs...no other way around it. I would get ahold of ( humbly post an add asking for assistance) from the local Chicago land gang. Someone needs to be hands on and go over every detail of them with you.

No need to get angry and frustrated..just get someone there thats experienced and get them out together right. If it ran for 15 seconds and died because the plugs were soaked with gas...then that all telling you it the carbs.

I can speculate and ask a zillion questions, but being hands on is the way to go here. I klnow you have done them so many times your pulling your hair out.

Get that done and the bike is as good as new.
 
There is a fuel control problem in the carbs...no other way around it. I would get ahold of ( humbly post an add asking for assistance) from the local Chicago land gang. Someone needs to be hands on and go over every detail of them with you.

No need to get angry and frustrated..just get someone there thats experienced and get them out together right. If it ran for 15 seconds and died because the plugs were soaked with gas...then that all telling you it the carbs.

I can speculate and ask a zillion questions, but being hands on is the way to go here. I klnow you have done them so many times your pulling your hair out.

Get that done and the bike is as good as new.
Ok sir i will see if i can locate someone.
 
Is it 10 seconds of strong running and a sudden death, or is it sputtering out?

Do you have extra plugs? If so you should use those to check for spark again immediately after it dies. Wet and black sounds like fouling to me. Do they all look like that? Maybe too much fuel? You should only ever start the bike with no throttle. How many turns are your idle screws backed out from lightly seated?

Did you bench sync the carbs the last time you had them apart?
Yes very good running, she fires up right away after you let her sit for awhile and there's no sputter at all just starts and idle starts to go up and just dies out. Then i try starting it with full choke-nothing, i let go of choke it starts for a sec again and dies out right away. I pull the choke again and backfired really loud. It got me really upset almost like she's doing it on purpose :) Yes i bench synced the carbs and i have it on 2 1/2 turns out. Im getting new plugs again tomorrow.
 
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