• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1000G Shopper
  • Start date Start date
The quote from the aircraft fuel pump place come in today, and as expected the prices are sky-high. The "tight cost restraints" pump is $450, and the other one $1150. I'll consider that idea as being shot down in flames. :p

I drew up a basic setup for a small in-tank pump. It looks like a fairly small aluminum cylinder would work (in-tank pumps are 38mm or 1.5"), with bulkhead fittings for liquids & wiring. One option I may pursue is to run pod air filters, which would open up a good bit of room for a pump assembly, plus make it easily gravity-fed. The in-tank stuff has to be vertical, though and that would be more difficult. I looked at small 1 gallon fuel cells and they are 6x6x12, which is too large. There are some very small fuel cells at Summit, like 1 and 2 quart, that could possibly be used for something like this.
 
I'm locating the Microsquirt there (after removing the turn signal cancel unit & downsizing/relocating the flasher). I just don't think there will be room there, especially with the master cylinder & reservoir there.

I'm still reading up on Bosch inline pumps, but there is not much tech data to be found for the ones other than the 7 they now sell. A lot of cars used a 2-pump system in the 70s and 80s, low-pressure in tank and high pressure inline.

UPDATE

In some more pump research, I found the 84~88 (or so) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager used an inline fuel pump. Apparently spec pressure was a little lower, 36 PSI, but forum posts I've read show it is good for 60 PSI if needed. They are of course hard to find, like the GPZ1100 pumps.

Then I found this thread on a Kawasaki forum where a member claimed the pump was the same as the one on his GPZ750 turbo, and that it interchanged with the pump from a 1980 Cadillac Eldorado. It's a lot of work to run down the various interchanges for stuff that old, but apparently it is the same as an Airtex E2315, which goes for about $80 at Rock Auto. According to Airtex, that same pump is also used on couple of 70's model BMWs (1972-74 2002Tii & 1975-76 530i) and a slew of similar vintage Volvos, some 80's model Fords/Mercurys and a couple of Dodges. Bosch carries no listings for anything that old (BMW/Volvo) in their current catalog and the one I downloaded had no listings for domestic cars.

From what I can tell, the Airtex 2xxx series pumps are roller vane , which does not work well with PWM. Hoping to find an equivalent Bosch (turbine style), I went to the Bosch general website and did a model look up for the BMWs (no pumps listed) and Volvos (did not go through all models, quit after the first three I tried were not listed). I then moved on to the Cadillac and only got a listing for the pump in the tank (low pressure). Next I tried the newest listing, a 1987 Dodge Charger. Again, only an in tank pump. Next was a1984 Ford Escort. Paydirt, an inline pump, # 69404, and no specs for it at all. I found a photo on Amazon (which may not be the right one) and it is not the later style turbine pump- it looks like a low-pressure pump. The only review for it was from 2010. I also tried a 1985 Ford EXP and got the same pump. I could not find a crossover for Airtex to Bosch.

Best bet at this point for a Bosch is their 4.5 amp universal inline pump, part # 580 464 085. It's used mainly on the VW bus and transporter, mid 80's to 1992 or so.
 
Last edited:
I have a spare GPZ pump. Unfortunately I can't give any guarantee about it's condition except it works now :D

One safe bet would be a Mallory 4060FI. It takes about 4.5 A at 48 PSI. But today's pricing seem to be quite high around $175.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4060fi

Btw, as far as I know all Bosch pumps that I have seen are also roller vane pumps.
 
Bosch advertises their pumps as being turbine style. I'm sure the older ones were not. The older Kawa pumps would not be suitable for what I want to do. Looks like they're asking like $200 on eBay for them though.

Also, the part # of the 4.5A pump is 580 464 085. 12mm inlet & 8mm outlet, 52mm diameter x 175mm long. In their euro-catalog, it shows as fitting a 1985-86 Holden Camira with a 1.8L engine, a 1985-92 VW bus with a 2.1L engine, and a 1983-92 VW Transporter with a 1.9 or 2.1L engine.

The next challenge will be finding one at a reasonable price.
 
All right, seems that latest OEM style Bosch pumps are turbine type. Makes sense. However, apparently they still make roller cell pumps as well. For example their whole aftermarket pump family seems to be roller cell type.
http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/language2/html/2832.htm
So better check carefully what you are going to get if you want a turbine type pump.

Whoa, maybe I should put my GPZ pump on the ebay if they are going for that money! :D
 
Have you looked at the pumps from the early K100 BMW motorcycles? They weren't very big.
 
All right, seems that latest OEM style Bosch pumps are turbine type. Makes sense. However, apparently they still make roller cell pumps as well. For example their whole aftermarket pump family seems to be roller cell type.
http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/language2/html/2832.htm
So better check carefully what you are going to get if you want a turbine type pump.

Whoa, maybe I should put my GPZ pump on the ebay if they are going for that money! :D
I saw those, the FP100 was a candidate due to the lower fuel delivery- at 3 bar and 14V it is drawing 4.5A, but as you noted it is a roller cell.

There are two listed for the VW Transporter that are both turbine models, and they are 5 digit numbers: 69414 and 69469. When I called on the 69414 pump (it's earlier in this thread) I found it drew up to 9 amps. I plan on calling Bosch to see what the current draw is for the 69469. Amazon has good prices on these, a little over $70 and $80 respectively. Summit sells them for about $86 and $106, so they are available.

tkent02 said:
Have you looked at the pumps from the early K100 BMW motorcycles? They weren't very big.
No, but I would think they would be of the older style (roller cell) as well. I'll try to find some numbers for them.

EDIT
The ones for sale on eBay from the K75 & K100 are all in-tank pumps.
 
Last edited:
It is a matter of getting the fuel in to the pump. The in-tank ones use "sock" filters that are usually very flimsily attached. I suppose with the right one you could drill out a brass fitting and use some JB Weld to attach it. This is not something I'd want to have fail though, as it would empty the tank quickly.

A secondary consideration is heat- since they will not be immersed in fuel to cool them, but I am not as concerned about that as it would be easier to overcome.
 
According to Bosch (I called), the 69469 pump from the VW Transporter draws < 4.5A, and it is the stock number for the 085 pump. You really have to shop for this, as the 0580464085 pump on eBay is $188 + shipping from England ($5). The 69469 pump is over $120 there but only $89 with free shipping on Amazon.

This is what I'm going to go with unless something better turns up within the next few weeks.
 
Next, the cylinder and head, from Pit Stop Performance here in Florida.

The close up pic of the head shows where the intake boots were port-matched to the head.

imageSANY1210.jpg


imageSANY1211.jpg


imageSANY1212.jpg
 
EDIT
The Arudino is no longer planned, I'm using an aftermarket PWM controller linked in the first thread.
 
Last edited:
Time for some cylinder guru advice. I have:
1981 1000G case
1983 1100G cylinder bored to 73.5mm
1983 1100G D-port head

I'll use the head gasket that came with the big bore kit. I also plan on using a syringe to cc each chamber and calculate my approximate CR.

The 1000G uses a base gasket and cylinder o-ring. The gasket part # is 11241-49010 superseded by 11241-49400.

The 1100G uses only a base gasket, and there were two different part numbers for the 1100G: 11241-49401, shows as 1.0 mm thick and superseded by 11241-49401-H17 (no thickness listed).

The small o-rings are the same.

I need to verify the proper Suzuki gasket to use here, as I'm not going to use an aftermarket one for the base gasket.

After doing some reading, I may invest in a set of APE studs & nuts from Z1 as well. It goes w/o saying I don't want to button this up and have an oil leak.
 
The superseded base gasket is 0.5 mm (0.020"). It's what I had to use on my 850, as one size now fits all G engines.;) It has sealed ok.
 
Good to know. The one in my aftermarkket gasket set is 1.0mm, and there are some OEM old number gaskets on eBay for less than a new one.

I've also decided against replacing the studs, but will use new nuts & washers.
 
I remember reading in srsupertrapp's rebuild that the OEM GS1100 base gasket is .039" thick Here is his post

You won't need cylinder o-rings.

On the piston set you got, does the dome look more like a 1000 piston or the lower CR 1100 piston?
 
Makes sense, .039=1mm. I bought one on eBay still in the parts wrapper that is 1mm.

The piston is supposed to be an exact replica of the 1000 piston except for bore size. I'll try to link a pic from the current eBay auction for one:
$%28KGrHqZ,!ogE-0zBOZHJBPvdr%28krG!~~60_12.JPG


From another auction, a stock 1981 GS1000 piston:
$%28KGrHqRHJCQE8fW7s%296zBPJrsVC6fQ~~60_57.JPG
 
It does look closer to the 1000 dome, although hard to tell without a side by side. if you didn't see it, here is JohnKat's images of the 1000 vs 1100 pistons clearly a lower dome on the 1100

If it isn't too much of a pain, post of a side by side of the original piston with the BB when it's time to pull them from packaging.
 
Back
Top