GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[GS1000G Shopper]

I'm working on identifying affordable sensors for the project. Here is what I've come up with:
MAP: Look for a GM 1-bar sensor on eBay that corresponds to GM part ending in 460. Should sell for $10-15 shipped.
Related research page- GM MAP sensor identification information 1 bar 2 bar 3 bar. The MAP sensor I got was the newer version with a Metripack connector, so I cut a pigtail from an old GM harness I had and spliced it into the GSXR harness.

Coolant (head) temp, CLT: I'll use a thermistor that is rated at -50C to 300C. I found Spectrum Sensors GC4914A-3-100 to fit the bill, it's about $2.25. It appears it can be placed into a ring terminal for mounting to the head. The datasheet linked on the linked page at Mouser Electronics has the resistance/temperature values the Microsquirt tuning software needs. UPDATE: These are really small, and the wires non-insulated. To make the sensor, I stripped the wires out of some 18 gauge automotive TXL wire and used the insulation on these. I used JB Weld to hold the thermistor in place from the rear, and placed an 8 gauge splice over top of the ring terminal to help secure the wires. Prelim testing with an ohm meter and a portable heater checked out OK. See photo in another post.

Intake air temp, IAT: Since this will not get as hot as the head, I'm using a lower range thermistor from Vishay: Vishay/BC Components NTCLE400E3222H It's about $2 and comes with wires. The temp range is -40C to +85C. The datasheet also has resistance/temp values. I plan on mounting this in a grommet in the airbox by use of a nylon barbed fitting (see photo in another post).

Throttle position will be the stock GSXR unit.

O2 wil be a Bosch wide band sensor. If you look for "Innovate 3737 Wideband Oxygen O2 Sensor LM-1 LC-1 Bosch LSU4.2" on eBay, it sells for around $56. To wire it in, the LSU4 sensor uses a six wire connector. The matching connector is here for about $10 and comes with the needed terminals/seals. Or you can cut off the plug and use your own connectors, but if you want to use it with an Innovate device (or anything that requires the original connector) later this would require more work.

I also found a curved bung for mounting it on eBay, and had this welded onto the right outer pipe by the crossover.

 

[coombehouse]

I used an MPX4250 map sensor mounted in an enclosure.
Similar to you i used a thermistor for the CHT sensor though i made a clamp to fit between the fins. I didnt fancy the ring terminal idea much.
I think i used a similar sensor for IAT & it works well.
Dont understand the part about the wideband. I just bought an Innovate Lc1 which comes ready to rock with sensor, bung etc ready to go. Why make it hard.
I most definitely wont be using a narrow band as the last thing needed on an aircooledmotor is an afr of 14.7 to 1. I am shooting for 12.5 thereabouts.
Nick

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

The 4250 is designed to be board mounted, no need for this application since I have an abundance of Weatherpack connectors. These are easier for me to work with, as I've used them on almost all of my automotive projects.

I may wedge in a piece of aluminum with a drilled & tapped hole between fins and mount it there if there are no bolts on the back side, but I'll have to look it over.

An Innovate LC-1 is anywhere from $160~$200, that's why. I already have one, but it is not needed for this project- only the O2 sensor. It's cheaper to buy a $56 sensor and $15 connector and make my own harness.

Good point on the wide band, I'm used to later model car engines with these.

 

[coombehouse]

I get it now. Never occurred to me you may have an lc1 already.
Only reason i used the mpx map sensor is that GM parts are not that common over here in UK.
Have you given much thought about how you are going to populate the VE table? I have bought a netbook & i guess i will be riding around with it on the seat or in a bag. Unless I get a better suggestion that is

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

I can run a cable to the trunk and log data there via a small laptop.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Work on this has been sporadic since my GSX-G continues to be needy. I'm trying to get work done on the wiring and mounting the Microsquirt and PWM box. The wiring is very tedious.

Here is a pic of the above listed sensors (the MAP uses a Metripack connector, I got a newer version). The CHT piece is fairly self-explanatory, the IAT is mounted in a nylon barb fitting. I cut down a small grommet that the thermistor would press fit into, and then filled the fitting with JB Weld. The grommet will mount in the airbox.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

WIX 33302 fuel filter and GSXR600 fuel hose. The filter is from a Chrysler product but uses the same output fitting as the GSXR hose. The supplied hose won't be used as the inlet is a regular 5/16 barb. It also has a mounting bracket that is not fully visible.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Wiring Diagrams post

Wiring Diagrams post

This post will have the main wiring diagrams I have drawn and am using.

Fuse panel and harness:



Overall wiring diagram w/ PWM (Version 2.2 with Spartan2 O2 controller):



Arttu ignition pickup wiring mod (if no output is detected in Tuner Studio, the wiring on pins 32-33 may need to be reversed):



Coil driver for Microsquirt (uses OEM ignitor box with perfborad inside):


PWM fuel pump controller and AEM sensor:


GSXR harness to MS wiring diagram:

Spartan 2 Wide Band Contoller:


UPDATE
I found a place that sells the mating connector to the Suzuki harness. I have not confirmed any of this as yet, but it possibly has value in that the Microsquirt wiring could be terminated in this connector, thereby reducing the amount of rewiring needed. The same site also sells the various other connectors such as for injectors and TPS. Doing this requires some re-pinnng of connectors so as to use the Secondary Throttle Valve (STV) connector for IAT. This won't appeal to many, so I have deleted the added info I had here.

I'll post some data I found that may allow the use of OEM Suzuki sensors:
The main connector will interface with the Suzuki harness. You can then plug in all 4 injectors and the TPS. You'll need to adapt the MAP and IAT with their own connector. In the alternative, you can test the Suzuki MAP sensor with a vacuum gauge and multimeter and use it as a “custom” MAP in Tuner Studio.

Here is the shop manual calibration data for the Suzuki MAP sensor:
Altitude: kPa: Volts
0-2,000: 100-94: 3.6-3.1
2,001-5,000: 94-85: 3.4-2.8
5,001-8,000: 85-76: 3.1-2.6
8,001-10,000: 76-70: 2.9-2.4


In Tuner Studio, the custom MAP needs two values, the kPa at 0.0 volts and the kPa at 5.0 volts. While the manual does not give us this information, it can be obtained as noted above via a vacuum gauge and multimeter or extrapolated using the Suzuki data and a spreadsheet. The spreadsheet is too large to attach here, so I'll just post the data I calculated.
0-2,000 feet:
0.0 volts= 56.8 kPa
5.0 volts= 116.8 kPa.

2,001 to 5,000 feet:
0.0 volts= 43.0 kPa
5.0 volts= 118.0 kPa.

5,001 to 8,000 feet:
0.0 volts= 29.2 kPa
5.0 volts= 119.2 kPa.

8,001 to 10,000 feet:
0.0 volts= 47.2 kPa
5.0 volts= 107.2 kPa.

Here is the shop manual calibration data for the Suzuki IAT sensor:
Temp (Celsius): Approximate Ohms (original spec was K Ohms, straight ohms easier to input due to low values)
20: 2,450 (range in manual is 2,200 to 2,700)
50: 808
80: 322
110: 148

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

I did some more test fitting today for the fuel filter, and also drilled a 1/2" hole in the airbox for the intake temp sensor. It's a good fit. I had welded 4 x 6mm nuts to the battery box so as to mount the MS there. It's also a good fit, and the wires will clear the side cover with no problem. The PWM module is in the compartment behind the seat, and is held in place with heavy duty Velcro.

I have my wiring partially laid out, need to trim the wires to length, and then perform the tedious work of adding them to the connectors.

Here are some pics:
Fuel filter- Using the included bracket, I bolted it to the bottom of the airbox using a short 3/8" bolt. I need to add a Dorman 800-120 straight fitting to the filter outlet. I could not use the GSXR hose as planned w/o kinking it.

Here is the IAT sensor mounted:

Microsquirt and PWM mounting/wiring:

 

[Guest]

Good golly! Look at all that wiring! You be a better man then me lol.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

The wiring has been a really tedious job. I've gotten everything wired up except the fuel pressure sensor, need to verify the pins on it. A big drawback at this point is that the negative terminal of the fuel pump seems to be shorted to ground. I had unplugged that lead from the PWM controller and when I turned the key on the pump ran. I need to pull the pump and inspect it.

 

[coombehouse]

Wow you really have made some progress. You are way in front of me now.
Please tell me what fuel pressure sensor are you using & have you modded Tuner Studio yet so you can log the fuel pressure. I need to do this so i am hoping you have figued it out!
Nick

 

[Darin Jordan]

Amazing... One day, I will tackle this... Until then, I'll watch this thread!

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Wow you really have made some progress. You are way in front of me now.
Please tell me what fuel pressure sensor are you using & have you modded Tuner Studio yet so you can log the fuel pressure. I need to do this so i am hoping you have figured it out!
Nick

Last question first- I am not monitoring fuel pressure via the Microsquirt. The transducer outputs to an aftermarket PWM controller (see first post for link), which will control the fuel pump via pulse width modulation (PWM). I know the MS has added inputs and that could be done, but I have enough eggs in my basket right now to try & figure that out.

The sensor is a $25 shipped generic 0-100 PSI transducer I found on eBay (see first post for link) from the same place that sold me the gauges I have in the Windjammer. The gauges have held up OK for a couple of years on the bike, so I don't see quality as being an issue. I don't post eBay links since they expire. The title of the item is:
Pressure transducer or sender,100 psi, for oil,fuel,air


He supplies info for it in the auction:
Brand new pressure transducer.
Input: 0-100 psi.
Output: 0.5V – 4.5V linear voltage output. 0 psi outputs 0.5V, 50 psi outputs 2.5V, 100 psi outputs 4.5V.
Works for oil, fuel or air pressure. Can be used in oil tank, gas tank, etc.
Accuracy: within 2% of reading (full scale).
Thread: 1/8” NPT.
Wiring connector: water sealed quick disconnect. Mating connector is included.
Wiring: Red: +5V. Black (yellow): ground. Blue (green): signal output.
It is an advance pressure sender than traditional mechanical pressure sender.

If you need a full pressure/voltage chart for it, the AEM 30-2131-100 is the same, just a lot more $.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

After pulling the pump and testing it, I'm going to mount the pump in a 52mm silicone hose and secure it to the airbox via a custom bracket. It's too bad I can't use the heatsink, and seems odd that the ground terminal is connected to the case.

 

[salty_monk]

Why wouldn't you isolate it "as is"? I don't see why you can't use your heatsink & isolate the base & bolt holes...

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

I'm not confident I can make a reliable (vibration proof) means of doing so, plus as I recall the fit is tight- the heatsink could touch the engine case under some circumstances. I have rubber bonded washers on the bolts as-is. I suppose some nylon bolts & rubber grommets could be used, but I've already bought the silicone hose. It's 3" long so I'll cut it in half and make an aluminum bracket to mount it using the existing 1/4-20 bolts on the airbox. I can then use hose clamps to mount the pump to the bracket.

I'm just brainstorming the idea of how to isolate it, if there's a better way to use the heatsink, I'm all ears.

 

[posplayr]

nice work .................

 

[salty_monk]

I thought heat was a big concern... Silicone is not going to help with that.

Shape your heat sink to clear the engine.

Put it on a rubber Mat. Use epoxy in and around the holes then put rubber tube through the holes, bolts through that and away you go... Or use nylon bolts if you're confident they'll hold.

If I'm reading this right it's not a critical safety fail if it does earth out is it?

 

[almarconi]

Just curious why you are going to all this trouble mounting the fuel pump. The RF900 I have has a fuel pump that is simply mounted to the frame using a strap that encircles the pump and bolts to the frame. Is there something special about this pump?