GS1100G CV carb float heights

[salty_monk]

So... can someone spot my measuring points per picture as It?s been a long time since I did these and by my way they are all off by approx the same amount which means someone set them that way...

also if I?m thinking straight the higher the float when upside down like this the leaner the carb (in which case these would have been set out of tolerance to the lean side by my reckoning. My plan is to set them up about 22mm or just under.


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also another question. The spring in the float valve on number 3 is noticeably weaker than the others. The float doesn?t really spring back at all.
This obviously affects float height when upside down like this.
The top of the plunger sits about 1mm lower than the other carbs.

Should I try to find another valve set to replace it? I assume the answer to that is yes but wanted to check for other ideas.


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The rack


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[Nessism]

Dan,
You are measuring to the wrong position on the float. The proper measure point is to the top of the rounded area of the float, not to the squared off area where the pivot/joining bar attaches.

And weak float needles are not good. They should hold up the weight of the float but rarely do on used BS carbs. If you have a new float needle I'd use it. K&L float needle springs are soft out of the box so know that if you've got any of those laying around.

 

[Steve]

Agreed, wrong spot to measure. Should be bottom of the 'step' or top of the rounded portion (same location).

Yes, the proper setting is 22.4mm ?1.0mm, with lower numbers yielding a higher fuel level and richer mixture. I try to set them right around 22.0 when possible. I also check both sides to make sure the floats are level. If they are twisted a bit, the one float you measure might be at 22.0, but the other one might be at 24.0. Since that is the higher number, it is the one that will be affected by the fuel first, giving a leaner mixture. I will twist the floats back to within 0.5mm of level before setting the overall level, and take the higher reading as my setpoint.

As far as the spring, make sure the spring is free to move. Over the years, with all the sets of carbs I have rebuilt, I have seen a LOT of "weak springs". Spray a little carb cleaner in there, work the plunger a bit, proper operation is usually restored. I usually toss them in the dip, along with the jets when rebuild a set of carbs.

.

 

[salty_monk]

It’s coming back to me now.... they will probably be about right measured to the front. The manual was throwing me off as it shows a definite gap between the float and where they tell you to measure.

When I looked at the bass cliff site this morning I also see a jet conversion spreadsheet I’d forgotten I did... must be getting old

Steve - you may well have been the last guy to set these! (Although Joe was messing around with a motion pro tube type level gauge, not quite sure why - another reason I thought they deserved extra attention).

They look pretty good inside. I’m going to give them a blow through with cleaner and I’ll try working that needle with some to see if the spring wakes up... I can always pull them again to dip if necessary. hopefully it does.

 

[Steve]

Steve - you may well have been the last guy to set these! (Although Joe was messing around with a motion pro tube type level gauge, not quite sure why - another reason I thought they deserved extra attention).

Yeah, that would be a logical assumption, but I don't really remember doing them and I don't have any records on the computer.

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