GS1100G suspension upgrades?recommeded parts?

[Charlie G]

I looked at the Hogans shocks, but they don't mench the 1100G.

They have them, give them a call. I just fitted my 1100g with the Hagon #2810 shock with adjustable damping. I'm happy with it. It's slightly on the stiff side but that is exactly what I asked for. The springs i have are for persons weighting 165-220 lbs. I weigh 160. I have progressives in the front, which I like , but I think I will add emulators at some point, as sometimes I feel like I'm very close to bottoming out. Maybe Sonics w/ emulators are a better choice?

 

[Ecklund]

My "gravitational attraction" is just a bit above 'average', and I have a fairing on my 850, so I went with the 1.1 springs and 10w oil.

NO regrets. :encouragement:

.

Agreed on the 10W fork oil.

They say the emulators are tunable but of course the fork must be disassembled to do so. Two turns and they seem to work well.

 

[Dogma]

Adding a spacer only compresses the lighter portion of the springs more, and can lead to mechanical binding. Cutting off the lighter section of the spring leaves only the stiffer section, which is more like what the newer, BETTER springs start with. The spacer is necessary to compensate for the cut-off portion.

.

Cutting coils off of a spring also increases the rate.

 

[posplayr]

Cutting coils off of a spring also increases the rate.

Even if it is NOT a progressive spring; if it is progressive (and you cut off the soft coils) then even more so.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Cutting coils off of a spring also increases the rate.

Right, and it's compression limits too. Not going to cut the old springs.
I bought new constant rate springs from Sonic Springs.
The name reminds me of Fred Sonic Smith, the late rhythm guitar player for the MC5 back in the late 1960s.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

I've installed the 320mm Hagon shocks sent by Dave Quinn, and they seem to be pretty good, they look good too.

I found some very bumpy country roads to test them on, and they're fine with preload and without.

I ride about 60mph and higher on some of these bumpy roads, in a jockey position up on the pegs.


FYI: I measured the Suzuki OEM shocks from the 1982 GS1100G, and they are 323mm center to center as best I can eyeball the tape.

 

[lurch12_2000]

Thanks Steve, needed somebody to bounce ideas off of.
About fitting the old Suzuki springs on the Progressive shocks, the question is; will they fit?
They were designed for the 1100G, so yes they have the right spring rate.
Looks like they have a retainer disc that slips out when the spring is compressed with a tool.
Seems I need to buy the tool if I buy springs and shocks separately.
Looks like buying shocks with springs mounted makes sense to me.

You can get the springs off fairly easy by crafting your own tool, but I wouldn't re-use the old 30+ yr old springs. For $268 shipped (and you earn about $7 worth of points toward your next purchase) here is a pair of Progressive rear shocks from BikeBandit below. I think your length is just under 13" eye to eye if I remember correctly from my old '83 1100G. Don't bother with the Emgo $100 shocks. I used them on my 1100G and they weren't very comfortable...but were better than the leaking shocks that were on there. I actually sourced a set of Progressive shocks for my GS650E for $200 but I assembled the springs.

http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermark...12-series-steel-spring-cruiser-shocks?m=12836

PS....never mind, I see you already bought the Hagons.

 

[Joe Garfield]

I got Sonic springs for the front and am planning on Hagon shocks for the rear.

Bill, what spring rate did you get for the rear, and what do you weigh (if you don't mind)? I had progressive shocks on my 650GL and I HATED them - they were way too stiff. I don't recall the model but they were what was recommended for my bike. I never really enjoyed riding that bike again. I don't want to do that to this bike.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Joe, I prolly weigh 195 with all my gear on.
Dave Quinn calculated what my spring rate should be, and did not tell me.
But no they are not too stiff, and seem just right.
But then maybe my butt is worn out and lost it's sensitivity, I dunno.
When you call or email Dave Quinn you'll be talking to a real person who will ask about your roads and riding habits and make the best decision. You can return them within a couple weeks I think, and try another rate.
I told him about our bumpy potholed roads here, and how I like to shoot down them at 60mph, riding on the foot pegs.

 

[Joe Garfield]

Thanks Bill.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

OK, after 1 month, the Sonic Springs came in.
I installed them today and took a half hour joy ride on some very bumpy roads and a high speed off ramp with a hard right, fast left and a long fast right.
I just installed them (.95) with the recommended preload, gives a 1/2" static sag on the front, just by eyeball no measuring yet.
Just fine on bumpy roads, more like a sport bike, but I used to pump up the OEM shocks, so not a big diff to me, 'cept I don't have to do those impossible PSI estimates with left to right PSI balance.
On the high speed off ramp, well it ain't equal to my 1990 GSX750F, because it still had a funky wobble where the end of the ramp meets the highway. The GSX750F just glides right over that faster and with more lean.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Is that funky wobble in hard corners a classic shaft drive thing?
I think you'd have to compare similar GS bikes to say so.

 

[Dogma]

No, that's just the frame, suspension, and tires not being able to cope with being upset in the curve. A 90 gixxer is quite a bit more advanced than an 1100G. Not that your suspension can't be upgraded to do much better. It's just that the requisite investment is inversely proportional to your sanity.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Yeah, must be just the old design, plus it's almost the heaviest GS.
My rear tire is in it's last season too, getting flat in the middle. I can hear the tire sound change when I lean in a corner.

 

[Griffin]

Yeah, must be just the old design, plus it's almost the heaviest GS.
My rear tire is in it's last season too, getting flat in the middle. I can hear the tire sound change when I lean in a corner.

Worn tires are probably the number one cause of handling issues in corners. Some tires wear better than others. I threw away a set of Bridgestone Spitfires that were only 50% worn, because they were causing my 1000G to pitch in hard when leaned over and trying to hold a line as they transitioned from the the center to the edge of the tire. I put on new Michelin Pilot Activ tires, and it was like I had a new bike.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

I had Spitfires one bike, an XJ550 Seca, maybe another. The front tires have a V shape to them so they probably would dive in.
They scared me, hard rubber with not much bite, but I was selling that bike anyway.
Just before I read your post I ordered a new Shinko 712 rear tire. Got 5000mi out of the old tire and it was real sticky.

 

[Griffin]

I had Spitfires one bike, an XJ550 Seca, maybe another. The front tires have a V shape to them so they probably would dive in.
They scared me, hard rubber with not much bite, but I was selling that bike anyway.
Just before I read your post I ordered a new Shinko 712 rear tire. Got 5000mi out of the old tire and it was real sticky.

I have a set of 712s on my 650E. Like them real well.

 

[bwringer]

OK, after 1 month, the Sonic Springs came in.
I installed them today and took a half hour joy ride on some very bumpy roads and a high speed off ramp with a hard right, fast left and a long fast right.
I just installed them (.95) with the recommended preload, gives a 1/2" static sag on the front, just by eyeball no measuring yet.
Just fine on bumpy roads, more like a sport bike, but I used to pump up the OEM shocks, so not a big diff to me, 'cept I don't have to do those impossible PSI estimates with left to right PSI balance.
On the high speed off ramp, well it ain't equal to my 1990 GSX750F, because it still had a funky wobble where the end of the ramp meets the highway. The GSX750F just glides right over that faster and with more lean.

Not sure why all your posts are coming out with teensy tiny text...

Anyway, static sag should be more like 1" to 1.3", not 1/2". Total travel of GS forks (and most streetbikes, for that matter) is about 4". (If you prefer metric, then with about 100mm of travel, you should have 25-33mm static sag.)

The usual rule of thumb is that static sag should be set to about 1/4 to 1/3 total travel, according to taste. (1/4 of travel gives a firmer ride, 1/3 of travel more comfort).

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Teensy tiny text?
On my end it's kinda big, but everybody else has smallish text. I been selecting text size #1 or #2. This post I'll go with default setting.
I haven't taken a real measurement of the sag since I installed the new springs and shocks. I only have about 2 hours riding time on the new springs, maybe them and the spacers will compact a bit.
I followed the instructions for 1/2" preload on the fork springs.

 

[RichDesmond]

...I followed the instructions for 1/2" preload on the fork springs.

That should give you close to 35mm of total sag, which is good.