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GS550 with Mikuni Dual Throat Carb, No Info
- Thread starter Witehorse Motors
- Start date
Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
Well the crossover tube between carbs is easy to see and the image in manual describes that fitting as breather tubes, nothing in the emissions chapter on the actual breather type or location.
Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
Great diagrams in the FSM, nice to have the link
The first real deal-breaker may have popped up though, 1 of 4 fuel air mixture screws is stuck in carb.
All 4 look like they have been mistreated but this one has less of the slot left and is not bunging so far.
Couple cycles of PB Blaster, then some propane heat... Couple gentle whacks with impact reduced down to 1/4" bit .. no love so far
The first real deal-breaker may have popped up though, 1 of 4 fuel air mixture screws is stuck in carb.
All 4 look like they have been mistreated but this one has less of the slot left and is not bunging so far.
Couple cycles of PB Blaster, then some propane heat... Couple gentle whacks with impact reduced down to 1/4" bit .. no love so far
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Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
Continuing nightmare. I drilled out that air screw as best I could and managed to get the threaded portion completely out, the needle part of it moved downward into the car body but what I see is part of the shaft and the washer or hopelessly seized in the hole. I'm just looking at them now and cursing.
If only that needle would come out I would have had pretty much everything else needed to revive the carbs. Even if I had to oversize the hole and press a bushing in order to drill it out and tap it for a new threads. The thread pitch is 5 mm but I'm sure I could find the proper tap online.
What an incredibly frustrating ordeal
If only that needle would come out I would have had pretty much everything else needed to revive the carbs. Even if I had to oversize the hole and press a bushing in order to drill it out and tap it for a new threads. The thread pitch is 5 mm but I'm sure I could find the proper tap online.
What an incredibly frustrating ordeal
Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
I can see that the heads are not set up to take a four carb intake, so that is out of the question.
I have to assume that's all began with someone using the wrong size washer under that air fuel screw.
I have to assume that's all began with someone using the wrong size washer under that air fuel screw.
I think your issue started with crud in the threads. That's why I had such an issue with my pilot mixture screws on my GS850G. They had never been taken out and there was a white buildup above the screw in the threads. Thought I had cleaned it up enough to get it out, but was wrong.
Different screw, so may be different sizes, but I did the same by drilling out the top. I was able to pull the spring out and then get some long nosed tweezers in there to remove the post. If you have pressed it into the carb body too hard during your drilling, you may have a hard time getting it to release. Try some focused heat on the bottom of the area (hole where this jet comes out). Maybe a dental pick from the bottom. I have heard of people using an acid that only attacks the brass to get these to fall out.
Link to my experience if it helps -
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...fuel-exhaust/1747809-fuel-mixture-screw-stuck
Different screw, so may be different sizes, but I did the same by drilling out the top. I was able to pull the spring out and then get some long nosed tweezers in there to remove the post. If you have pressed it into the carb body too hard during your drilling, you may have a hard time getting it to release. Try some focused heat on the bottom of the area (hole where this jet comes out). Maybe a dental pick from the bottom. I have heard of people using an acid that only attacks the brass to get these to fall out.
Link to my experience if it helps -
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...fuel-exhaust/1747809-fuel-mixture-screw-stuck
DR Payne
Forum Apprentice
I just went through and cleaned my BSW30SS carbs on my '83 GS550E, and I can confirm:
- There is not much info out there on these!
- The outer jets are bigger than the inner jets, 102.5 and 95 stock, respectively (for the E, other models may vary).
- That fitting is indeed for the petcock vacuum line. The breather fittings are bigger, and there's one on each carb, facing inboard. There's only one petcock fitting.
- I had no springs on my slides either, other than the tiny springs inside the needle holders. Vacuum pulls the slides up, and I think magic pulls them back down.
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Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
Well the top 2/3 of the air mix screw is drilled out, but the remains and what looks like a washer are STUCK AF still, my neighbor tried to help but the tapered needle seems to have moved slightly downward into the carb body. I cant make any progress. And the 0.5mm pitch fine threading is damaged in the hole. Depressing.
If I could just get the remnants out I would try and find a machine shop and see if its possible to drill the top of the hole larger and press a bushing in there then thread it to the new air screw.
So bummed.
I have found the parts needed to get them working again.
I have yet to remove the intake boots from the head, but I assume the head is not machined to accept a traditional bank of 4 carbs. If I found a set.
I surely wish there was one of these carb bodies out there for sale.
If I could just get the remnants out I would try and find a machine shop and see if its possible to drill the top of the hole larger and press a bushing in there then thread it to the new air screw.
So bummed.
I have found the parts needed to get them working again.
I have yet to remove the intake boots from the head, but I assume the head is not machined to accept a traditional bank of 4 carbs. If I found a set.
I surely wish there was one of these carb bodies out there for sale.
Here's some videos I found on alternative methods...
As I mentioned before using nitric acid. I'm not sure I would try it myself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjdBvtOgqCU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DMYmAA8Bxs
And an elaborate way to use heat and air pressure. If you can rig this up, I'd say it's likely to work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbDEuADGdYc
As I mentioned before using nitric acid. I'm not sure I would try it myself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjdBvtOgqCU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DMYmAA8Bxs
And an elaborate way to use heat and air pressure. If you can rig this up, I'd say it's likely to work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbDEuADGdYc
Those videos are horrible.
I had a tip stick like you describe once. Drilled out the bulk of the screw, but the tip was stuck fast.
I used PB Blaster down the passage, and several cycles of heat, using a torch. Not stupid hot, but enough to boil the oil. I also put a punch down the hole, trying to kick the tip sideways, breaking it free. I was almost ready to give up, when all of a sudden, the broken tip just fell out.
BTW, the best way I've found to remove stripped pilot screws is to drill a small hole in the top, and then pound a torx bit into the hole. That usually affords enough leverage to get it out. Of course, use plenty of penetrating oil and heat first. That's a given.
I used PB Blaster down the passage, and several cycles of heat, using a torch. Not stupid hot, but enough to boil the oil. I also put a punch down the hole, trying to kick the tip sideways, breaking it free. I was almost ready to give up, when all of a sudden, the broken tip just fell out.
BTW, the best way I've found to remove stripped pilot screws is to drill a small hole in the top, and then pound a torx bit into the hole. That usually affords enough leverage to get it out. Of course, use plenty of penetrating oil and heat first. That's a given.
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Lol.. agreed. Not much out there. I wouldn't want to have to deal with this problem.
Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
Well needless to say I got burnt out on this project and still am. I finally got a 14K gold testing bottle of Nitric acid (said to dissolve brass and leave aluminum pretty untouched) and have been trying rounds of that today. Not really reacting to the screw much and so far no results. A few folks on forums and short vids claim success but I am not seeing it.
Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
UPDATE:
Nothing I did helped the stuck screw.
I located another set of carbs though!!!!!
Mated them together after a good cleaning, by hand then ultrasonic... I got the bike running with the enrichening cable pulled out some but seems like there was a air leak around the intake boot. racing idle. then a better idle but no response. Some spray also affected it ..
Gonna try and get it sealed better later.
This thing is chopped out with flowing 4 into 2 exhaust and some CRUDE homemade pod filters made from airbox boots, but even still
it should get to a decent idle and some ability to ride (with lousy mid range im sure, but I just want to send it home running and never think about it again, HA!!)
Nothing I did helped the stuck screw.
I located another set of carbs though!!!!!
Mated them together after a good cleaning, by hand then ultrasonic... I got the bike running with the enrichening cable pulled out some but seems like there was a air leak around the intake boot. racing idle. then a better idle but no response. Some spray also affected it ..
Gonna try and get it sealed better later.
This thing is chopped out with flowing 4 into 2 exhaust and some CRUDE homemade pod filters made from airbox boots, but even still
it should get to a decent idle and some ability to ride (with lousy mid range im sure, but I just want to send it home running and never think about it again, HA!!)
Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
Witehorse Motors
Forum Apprentice
Witehorse Motors
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Witehorse Motors
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Witehorse Motors
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I put o ring on the crossover fuel tube, the float valve seats and drain plugs.. only ones I didn't appear to be the ones for the choke (enrichener?) plunger..
Got up today to try to get the intake to seal up, but no luck.
The right side carb has a slight bit of gas weeping from the tiny air jets that face the air filter. Gotta find a spec for float height or check the needle valve is working, they are the metal type.
I tried to leverage the carbs fully into the intake boots with no luck. Even got them really warm with my hair dryer but they just dont want to seat.
This chopper has been a real pain to work on. I just drained the tank again and I am removing the carbs (again).. Might have to remove the intake boots to see WTF is up with the fit.
Trying not to despair at the constant set backs. I hope I can look back on this some day soon and laugh (or puke). Ha.
Got up today to try to get the intake to seal up, but no luck.
The right side carb has a slight bit of gas weeping from the tiny air jets that face the air filter. Gotta find a spec for float height or check the needle valve is working, they are the metal type.
I tried to leverage the carbs fully into the intake boots with no luck. Even got them really warm with my hair dryer but they just dont want to seat.
This chopper has been a real pain to work on. I just drained the tank again and I am removing the carbs (again).. Might have to remove the intake boots to see WTF is up with the fit.
Trying not to despair at the constant set backs. I hope I can look back on this some day soon and laugh (or puke). Ha.
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