GS550L Minor Rebuild

[MrZufall]

Hey all, here's a question for you:
I'm doing a lot of work on a 1981 GS550L. I decided the disassemble the engine to clean it and replace the gaskets and seals to repair an oil leak. I also plan on re-shimming the valves and rebuilding the cam chain tensioner while things are in pieces.

I've got replacements for:
the valve cover gasket
the half moon gaskets
a small oring for the cam chain tensioner
the cam chain tensioner gasket
an ignition cover gasket
oil breather gasket
head gasket and base gasket

I wasn't really planning on replacing the base gasket, I think my oil leaks are at the head gasket and again at the valve cover. It seems like a lot of people start out planning on replacing only the head gasket, but then end up replacing the base gasket. I was wondering why this is, and what I need to watch out for.

Also, does this look like a fairly comprehensive list of parts? Does it look like I forgot anything? And while I'm rooting around in there, is there anything else I should consider replacing? The bike seemed to run pretty good last year so I really wasn't planning on replacing the rings.

Thanks for your help!

 

[GS1100GK]

Base gasket orings?

Base gasket orings?

Somebody mentioned in another thread about small orings in the base gasket area...maybe someone can elaborate?

Thanks!

- John

 

[Flyboy]

Yes, the O-Rings between the crank case and the barrels, will go eventually, they do that, migt as well replace then while you are in there, it is almost no extra worl to pull the barrels off now.
The chances of the base gasket leaking once you put it all together are good, it has been disturbed now, maybe not by eye, or physicaly, but it has, by releasing the tention on it and re tighting again when you bolt it all up again.
Why take the chance, just put one in while you are in there, then you know you are good for thousands more miles.

Not sure how far you want to go with this, but while the head is off, I would check the valves for leakage and just give them a lapping in with some pase and a stick, and put on a new set of valve stem seals, they are cheap enough.

Oh yes, what about exhaust gaskets, they are crush gaskets, use once only.
Where are the pics????????????????

 

[GS1100GK]

Yes, the O-Rings between the crank case and the barrels, will go eventually, they do that, migt as well replace then while you are in there, it is almost no extra worl to pull the barrels off now.
The chances of the base gasket leaking once you put it all together are good, it has been disturbed now, maybe not by eye, or physicaly, but it has, by releasing the tention on it and re tighting again when you bolt it all up again.
Why take the chance, just put one in while you are in there, then you know you are good for thousands more miles.

Not sure how far you want to go with this, but while the head is off, I would check the valves for leakage and just give them a lapping in with some pase and a stick, and put on a new set of valve stem seals, they are cheap enough.

Oh yes, what about exhaust gaskets, they are crush gaskets, use once only.
Where are the pics????????????????

Matt and I are looking to start and complete this part this weekend. Problem is, neither of us has torn down a motor solo this far (pistons, rings, etc)

I'm concerned about getting into something and not having the know-how and/or parts to get it back together properly

Not opposed to taking apart again later if the valves need help, but need to get it running SOON! (This next winter might find a 650 head on this 550 )

What are those orings on the base called?

Thanks!

- John

 

[Flyboy]

Matt and I are looking to start and complete this part this weekend. Problem is, neither of us has torn down a motor solo this far (pistons, rings, etc)

I'm concerned about getting into something and not having the know-how and/or parts to get it back together properly

Not opposed to taking apart again later if the valves need help, but need to get it running SOON! (This next winter might find a 650 head on this 550 )

What are those orings on the base called?

Thanks!

Pahhh, piece of old tackie, how hard can it be.................right

Seriously, with workshop manual in hand, and the GS folk here ast your fingertips, you will get through it just fine, it really is not as daunting as it seems, there is a wealth of experience here and the good folk are more than willing to share thier knowlege with you and walk you through, when you decide to do it.
The sense or achivment will be overwhelming when you fire her up afterwards.

Start a thread when it happens, so we can follow it, and flood you with advise.

 

[Redneck]

I have not looked to see if there is any major differences between your 81 and my 79 but I have a pretty extensive list of parts on the first post of my thread (look at my sig). Those are all from cyclepartsnation.com all I did was go through the parts pictures and if it said gasket or O-ring I put it on the list. Only thing I am not replacing is my piston rings. As far as the Tear down goes it is pretty simple, once its out of the bike. Make sure you have a Torque wrench for when you put it back together.

Paul

 

[GS1100GK]

I have not looked to see if there is any major differences between your 81 and my 79 but I have a pretty extensive list of parts on the first post of my thread (look at my sig). Those are all from cyclepartsnation.com all I did was go through the parts pictures and if it said gasket or O-ring I put it on the list. Only thing I am not replacing is my piston rings. As far as the Tear down goes it is pretty simple, once its out of the bike. Make sure you have a Torque wrench for when you put it back together.

Paul

Nice thread, Paul!

Question: Remove the engine from the bike? I've read some say yes, some say no. Keep in mind we are wanting to tear it down just to replace the leaking head gasket, but likely do the base gasket as well because many are recommending it to avoid a leak due to tearing it down.

Polishing would be nice, IF ~someone~ didn't live over an hour away, only coming a couple weekends to work. Something about trying to find a nice girl...

BTW, if anyone finds a nice girl, especially one who likes bikes, PLEASE send her Matt's way so he can start concentrating on what IMPORTANT, like the GS's!

Okay, okay, now that Matt's redfaced...he can't kill me yet- he needs the help on the rebuild this weekend!

Oh yeah, the point...if we were doing this over winter, we'd likely do polishing and stuff before putting it back together. But now that riding weather is creeping in, we just want to get the leaks fixed and get it going asap.

Gotta get some riding in before BC Rally to make sure all is well!

- John

 

[Redneck]

Just keep in mind the Head gasket is the expensive one. The base gasket is only about $10. If your removing everything to get to the head gasket I would think about pulling the cylinder section and replacing that one gasket and the orings around the oil ports. Just some thoughts but I have also found in two engine tear downs that getting it apart is easy. Getting all the old gasket material off is the bigger pain in the a$$. Good luck guys.

Paul

 

[GS1100GK]

Just keep in mind the Head gasket is the expensive one. The base gasket is only about $10. If your removing everything to get to the head gasket I would think about pulling the cylinder section and replacing that one gasket and the orings around the oil ports. Just some thoughts but I have also found in two engine tear downs that getting it apart is easy. Getting all the old gasket material off is the bigger pain in the a$$. Good luck guys.

Paul

Thanks, Paul. The Orings around the oil ports- I think those are the ones I couldn't remember. Those are the ones suggested when the guy just had a big gushing leak in his base gasket the last week or so, right? (ended up being a piece of gasket IIRC)

Good luck? Yeah, if you saw us work...If we had a live streaming camera, we could charge to watch. You'd either laugh your butt off or gasp and call us rednecks

Now THERE's an idea! Headcam and skype when doing hard jobs. or Live streaming video of GSR work.

- John

 

[MrZufall]

Thanks guys for all the help! I know I tend to keep pretty quite on here, but I REALLY appreciate all the help!

 

[MrZufall]

Polishing would be nice, IF ~someone~ didn't live over an hour away, only coming a couple weekends to work. Something about trying to find a nice girl...

BTW, if anyone finds a nice girl, especially one who likes bikes, PLEASE send her Matt's way so he can start concentrating on what IMPORTANT, like the GS's!

Okay, okay, now that Matt's redfaced...he can't kill me yet- he needs the help on the rebuild this weekend!

Yeah...finding a nice girl and something about having a job... Jobs are nice but cut way too much into time I could be spending on funner stuff... (ie girls and bikes)

Ha Ha- I see you thought this through John!

 

[MrZufall]

Oh yes, what about exhaust gaskets, they are crush gaskets, use once only.

I have no clue what you mean by exhaust gaskets....Can you elaborate for me?

 

[mike_of_bbg]

There's nothing holding the base on after the head bolts are loosened, and it's very hard to remove the head without disturbing the base gasket (and maybe even harder to know whether or not you did). Please be certain that you use an OEM base gasket!

Oh, and I just did this a couple of weeks ago. It's not that hard to replace the head and cylinders with the block in the frame.

 

[MrZufall]

Thanks Mike!

Know anything about those exhaust gaskets?

 

[cowboyup3371]

They are small round gaskets that sit inside of each hole where the header connects. Shouldn't be terribly expensive to replace...here's what my local shop would charge you to replace them:

GASKET, EXHAUST PIPE
14181-37D00 (replaces 14181-03310) 4$3.51

 

[Dogma]

Late entry to the thread:

One weekend for the first time doing the top end? That's pretty aggressive. I know now I could do it in a long day, but I've been in there before. You haven't even broken off any exhaust screws yet on this job. Or one of the three little screws in the head. I hope you can get it in one, but two weekends with a trip to a machine shop is how I would schedule a top end I've never been into, just in case.

Make sure you have something like a green Roloc wheel for removing old gasket, plus a few hours' worth of patience for the stuff you can't do with the wheel. You might get lucky though. Judicious use of a tiny wire wheel on a Dremel may be necessary in spots.

Read through the procedure in the manual, study the parts and part names in the fiche. Have the head in your head to give yourself a running start.

Resist the temptation to pry on any cooling fin, no matter how sturdy it looks. In reality, they break to spite you. Nothing to do with how strong they are. If you think you can get a wood chisel into the gasket instead of aluminum, do that. Or, IIRC, the 550 head has room to get a block of wood under the end to bang on.

When lifting the cylinders, make sure the pistons aren't tilted and jamming in the bottom of the sleeve. Piston skirts are fragile and may be sharp. Tap gently to make sure they're free. Make sure you didn't forget a cam chain guide. Then pull harder on the cylinders. The threads on the studs like to hang up on the accumulated road grime they must pass through.

I may have missed an answer to the question of whether to leave it in the frame. Yes, do leave it in the frame.

Have fun.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I've never used either a Roloc wheel or a wire wheel for gasket cleaning. But if ou do, for the love of god be gentle and realize that gouging the seating surface of any gasket will cause weeps seeps and leaks a d maybe gushers. The alu is soft

 

[cowboyup3371]

I've never used either a Roloc wheel or a wire wheel for gasket cleaning. But if ou do, for the love of god be gentle and realize that gouging the seating surface of any gasket will cause weeps seeps and leaks a d maybe gushers. The alu is soft

I can attest to that as last year I scraped a little too hard with my scraper and created a small lip next to the half moon area causing a leak on the valve cover gasket. After filing it down recently, I hope I cured that problem. I'll find out soon.

 

[GS1100GK]

All great advice, thanks! Especially the part about the pistons- that's where we have the least experience. Thanks, Dale.

1. Any tips for the cam and chain removal?

2. Tips for separating the head and also the cylinders from the base? No prying at the fins, check. I was thinking wd40 on the gasket and rubber mallet.

3. Looking for gasket remover spray. Advance Auto didn't have anything like that. I've used some in the past, but can't remember much about it. suggestions/brand name to search/source?


We already have the exhaust off, so that helps.

We're only replacing base, head, breather, and valve cover gaskets, along with the orings in the base (oil passage, I believe), then reassemble and valve adjustments.

Carbs are off, recently dipped and cleaned, just have to re-rack, airbox, gas tanks, and battery box are off.

My biggest concerns? Not having all the parts or finding something (rings, valves, etc) once inside that needs to be replaced.ray:

- John

 

[Dogma]

Josh is right, the aluminum castings are very easy to damage. Myself, I do more damage with razor blades and other scraping tools. The Roloc wheel (green, I know no other way to classify them) was awesome. It would eat any gasket or sealant (even 1207B), but not touch aluminum. You know the drill, test someplace that doesn't matter first.

The wire wheels with a Dremel are another matter. They will move aluminum if you let them, but they are forgiving enough that you can get some work done in tight places. They do fling a lot of wire chunks though. I can't remember if the stainless or brass lasts longer.

1. Cams and chain are pretty straightforward. Just do what the book says.

2. Pretty sure you can get a long board under the end of the 550's head. Hammer on the end of the board. The end away from the head, wise guy.

3. I tried gasket remover spray once, though I don't remember which brand. The result was a slightly darker base gasket that still wouldn't move. This is where I ended up using the Dremel.