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GS750E Rebuild Update

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kcwiro
  • Start date Start date
Scott, I have never used a ring compressor to do this job. I cant imagine one to be very useful when doing this....I have done it many, many times, too many to count...Your cylinder block has a taper at the bottom of the sleeve to help assist in getting the rings in. Use this taper. Heres how I do it.

Connect a "fish" wire to the cam chain so once you get done the chain can be pulled through.
Turn the crank to where cylinders 2&3 are up high, they will go in first
Drop the cam chain down into motor (with wire attached) and turn motor gently clockwise until the chain bunches up and stops it from turning.
The block can be lowered over the studs with an assistant while you guide the 2&3 pistons up to the holes. Heres where it gets tricky.

Hold the pistons where 1/2 of the ring is started into the cylinder. In other words "cock" the piston sideways. Your ring endgaps (top ones) should be opposite each other and facing inline with the crankshaft. So basically one ring end is already started up into the holes taper. Now use a pop sickle stick or a clothes pin (Soft wood) and begin compressing the ring with it. Start at the point furthest away from the ring end gap, working your way toward the ring gap. As you compress the ring, the weight of the block and the taper on the sleeve will allow the rest of the ring to start into the tapered area of the sleeve. Once it does, simply cock the piston back straight and they are in.

You really need a second person to help with lowering the block as you dont want the full weight of the block sitting on the rings.

Once you get 2&3 in, rotate the crank backwards just enough to release the previously bunched up cam chain. Hang the cam chain up through the block and hook it to something with your "fish" wire. Be careful the block doesn't come down hard on 3&4 pistons as the crank is free to turn now and has some weight to it.

Rotate the crank to allow the block to come down and the remaining pistons to come up. Check your ring end gaps for proper position and cock the pistons to where 1/2 the ring goes into the bore. Compress as before with pop sickle sticks.

Works for me, never broke a ring. But I did have a good helper who understood exactly what we were doing......Good Luck....BadBillyB
 
Question... if the ring end gaps are opposite of each other do I use two sticks or just one?

figured I would be compressing the top one so it gets in the cylinder .. the second ring should be close to follow... before I got the top most rings in...but the oil ring on the bottom caused me simular troubles...
 
Question... if the ring end gaps are opposite of each other do I use two sticks or just one?

figured I would be compressing the top one so it gets in the cylinder .. the second ring should be close to follow... before I got the top most rings in...but the oil ring on the bottom caused me simular troubles...

You only need one stick. Do the top ring on Cyl2 then do the top ring on cyl3. Then do the second ring on cyl2 followed by second ring on cyl3.

Once these are in place. The pistons are now straight with the bore. Center the oil rings (after having made sure the expander ends are not overlapping....easy mistake) and just wiggle/push the block down over them. They do not have as much tension (not sprung out) like the compression rings. The taper will guide them in. Rock pistons from side to side if needed to get them started.......Also inspect the taper or chamfer on the bottom of the sleeves before you start in case one got dinged. It can be lightly sanded if needed.........BadBillyB
 
Success!!

The block is resting comfortably under its new base gasket...hose clamps ended up doing the trick... easy once friend and I figured out that we could use the clamp to hold it and just let the block come down and push the clamp off as it dropped.... simple concept but after two hours it finally came down... figured out somehow a sigle washer got misplaced and hardware store being closed I could not find anything suitable to use in its place... so I hand tightened the head bolts and will pick up completing the job I hope next weekend... need to get cam eye ends since those also managed to disappear... otherwise motor will be ready to fire hopefully by next weekend [-o<
 
The head stud washers on my 450 were copper and doubled as a seal since oil feeds up through some of the studs. You might want to double check on your bike to make sure you can get the proper type of washers (may not be available at the hardware).
 
Yeah, I know the washers you are talking about ...the ones that are missing the washer are the outside stud nuts which take normal steel washers. I had both copper washers accounted for thankfully....these others got lost when the head went to the shop to be checked out.

Dont think this will be a problem..anyone chime in if I am incorrect.
 
dam it the place gave me the wrong cam shaft bolts for my sprocket on my exhaust cam...

does anyone have a pair of 7mm hex socket bolts?

shop is really ticking me off with ordering the wrong crap
 
If you have a stock cam I think I have some. I"ll look in my shed tomorrow.
 
its an OEM one yes...don't have the part number from the shop order but it uses 7MM allen head bolts to secure the sprocket for my exhaust cam.

Thanks a lot let me know if you find something...

hardest part about this rebuild right now is all the small things that are holding me up...I mean sheesh a broken ring is one thign but the only thing keeping me from firing it up right now is two silly bolts... OH the IRONY!!
 
I've got the bolts. They are in my stock 1100 cams. See if you can drop in these cams:wink:
Let me know if you need the bolts or cams.
 
I've got the bolts. They are in my stock 1100 cams. See if you can drop in these cams:wink:
Let me know if you need the bolts or cams.

Sweet!!

I have my new exhaust cam already and my intake one was A ok ... I'll PM you my contact info and we can chat on it Thank you so much man made my week....only monday but I'll crack a drink for you tonight :-D
 
I apparently don't have the correct bits to drill this metal.. funds have gotten tight but I have the local shop doing the drilling for me on the cam to fit it.. going to pick it up tomorrow hopefully it will be all together and fine then this weekend I am spacing the valves and if nothing else can go wrong firing the engine for the first time since being disassembled...for good measure I am going to line the inside of the tank with a sealer after using the acid to prep the surface... don't want to lose my tank to rust if I can save it... figure the plastic coating is a better investment rather than just relying on inline filters alone. Figure its worth reapplying every few years.... I have seen talk about using a radiator shop to blast and clean it... anyone have thoughts with that?
 
the shop doesn't blast it clean, they just use acid like everyone elese. for the cost and effort it is easier to just have a radiator shop do it for you . call around should get some good prices.
 
I'm pretty sure I will want to remove my fuel guage sender from the tank when dropping it off at a place. If I understand the acid correctly it basically turns the rust into iron or something like that all smooth and ready for the liner application.

There any special things I should pay mind to before I drop the tank off at a radiator shop ? Word on cost was $70 - $100 from what I read from everyone else that has had this done.
 
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Shop called and said my cam was all set for me to install. I promptly zoomed out and picked it up from the shop. Now... all I have to do is mount the cam shafts hook up the timing chain...find and verify the valves are 20/20 replace the valve cover and crankcase gasket...mount the carbs and treated tank with new fuel valve, replace hoses...put in the airbox after I clean the air filter, reattach the exhaust system... charge the battery, turn the key, shutoff the kill switch, and hit the friendly 'start' button *breath* I cannot wait! EWW...... the tension is building with the question I even hate to ask myself... will this beast fire up immediately?!? I hope it does so my parents annoying neighbor needs a late night roar followed by an ' It's Alive....It's Alive! '

.....BWAHAHA

That then a quick saftey inspection...and then the test ride ... Please let nothing else be up to keep this guy in the garage!!![-o<
 
Hah... yeah.. I left that step out didn't I... silly me... thanks again for those bolts
 
Update:

Friend and I got everything back together last night and even got to start the beast up. My gas tank is not finished so I used a poly bottle of gas to start. Everything clicked and after a few seconds on the starter it roared to life.

Eww... it sounds very good from what it was prior to the rebuild. Now, a little cleanup work and syncing the carbs. had a little leak at the top of the valve cover. Think the gasket is not seated right on it. I will fix that tonight, little leak from the exhaust pipe but I think that is a result of the exhaust bolts not being on tight enough. I will wrench those down and think that will take care of that problem.

Almost done I cannot wait.
 
Definately would not have been possible if I had not had all the input for all who helped me along when I started this thread wow... on the 25th of November... sheesh...

Anyway thanks for all who took an interest in my rebuild project I will be polishing and working on the visuals now and will get some before and after pictures...think it will be worthy of going for the GS of the month award who knows :-D

Again thanks all of you guys!
 
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