I lost a nut!

[Charlie G]

I was excelerating from a stop sign pretty rapidly (6k-7k rpm) and got to abot 45mph when I noticed the engine was making a clacking noise. Pulled the clutch in and killed the engine. Got of the bike and noticed the cam chain tensioner was missing the knob and spring.

I walked back up the road about 100 yards and found the knob and spring and called the wife to bring me a wrench, lock washer and nut. Reassembled the spring, knob, ect. and rode he bike home ( about 1 mile). The clacking noise was gone after parts were reassembled.

The bike dosen't seem quite right as it dosent want to idle real well. Low idle, wanting to die.

The question how much damage could have been done?

I intend to pull the tensioner, check and and reset.

Could the cam chain have jumped? Any ideal of what I should do from here?

Charlie G

 

[Guest]

Things I'd do
Check compression first.
Check cam timing
Replace the tensioner (I have one but not sure if it's right)

 

[Charlie G]

I'll look over the manual and check out the how to check cam timing. Compession check, easy. Thanks Chef!

cg

 

[Charlie G]

Compression is the same as a week ago, before the tensioner nut was lost. 135psi in number and 140 in number 2 cylinder. I'm releived that the compression is good.

I adjusted the valves a few weeks ago and since then cyl #1 has been running rich, black sooty. When I checked the compression today it (the plug) was even worse. I had to drop down two sizes in shims on the exhaust valve, in #1 and I'm thinking that the properly adjusted valves are allowing a rich running carb to become evident. I cleaned the #1 plug while I had it out and it ran a bit better.

I less worried about jumping time now and will return to the planned next step of rebuilding the carbs. I've had the o-rings sinced August of 09 waiting on the shelf. Anyone have any thoughts regarding what I doing...please speak up!

By the way, adjusting the valves had a marked increse in power. For the first time in the 3000 miles I've owned this bike, I'm able to get the front wheel off the ground. Like they allways say " Do the basic maintance". Off to dip carbs....H#ll there's only two!!!! Thanks for your help GS'ers.

cg

 

[DimitriT]

The cam chain tensioner has to be installed a certain way for it to
work right. There are two springs and tension has to be put on
both at once in a certain way. I would pull the tensioner off and
reinstall it following the correct procedure. Maybe take the opportunity
to change gaskets and seals while your in there

 

[Charlie G]

The cam chain tensioner has to be installed a certain way for it to
work right. There are two springs and tension has to be put on
both at once in a certain way. I would pull the tensioner off and
reinstall it following the correct procedure. Maybe take the opportunity
to change gaskets and seals while your in there

I just rebuilt the tensinor a week prior, per instructions on Basscliff site. I don't know if I didn't tighten the nut tight enough or the lock nut was worn, but any way it came off. I have it adjusted right. I pulled it a part again and it isn't beat up, and it seems to be doing it's job. I'm going to check the cam time this evening, just to be sure.

Thanks for posting!

cg

 

[Wallowgreen]

Blimey Charlie! Hope you got away with it.

Think I'll go check mine. If you remember I overhauled the one on my 850 the same day you did yours. Did you put any loctite on it? I put a dab of blue on mine.

 

[Charlie G]

Blimey Charlie! Hope you got away with it.

Think I'll go check mine. If you remember I overhauled the one on my 850 the same day you did yours. Did you put any loctite on it? I put a dab of blue on mine.

Wallowgreen,

I didn't put any loctite on it. I just relied on the lock nut that was on there. I thought on putting a lock washer on. Actually had one on it and decided that it didn't have one on before and that must good enough. I didn't think of Loctite. I need to get into thinking about loctite.

I just finished checking the cam timing and I pretty sure it is off by a link and a half. There are 17 pins of the chain between the cam sprocket index points. There should be 18 for this model. I need someone to help me clearify the instructions to reset.

Check that nut!

Looking forward to meeeting you at one of these upcomming rallies.

cg

 

[Charlie G]

T i i f wtf

T i i f wtf

The manual say's to align the top dead center mark with the notch. There two marks between the T and the F. Is it centered betwen the two marks or what? I hope you all can see from my picture what I'm talking about. Thank for the help!

Charlie G

 

[Charlie G]

The engine is set at TDC (I think?) and the Exhaust cam sprocket index mark (#1) is about three pins above the surface of the head. It should be flush. The number of pins betweent index mark #2 on the exhaust cam sprocket and index mark #3 on the intake sprocket is currently 17 and the manual says there should be 18.

It seems that I need to lift the chain off the Exhaust sprocket and rotate the sprocket clockwise until it aligns with the surface of the head. Once that is done, lay the chain back on the exhaust sprocket and lift the chain off the intake sprocket and rotate it until have 18 pins between marks.

So guys is this what I have to do??? Help me please Do I have this right? Thanks! ( I owe you one Chef!)

Charlie G

 

[Nessism]

That doesn't look like the correct mark, it's usually about half an inch to the left of the F mark.

 

[Charlie G]

This picture might be a bit clearer. the T and the F are about a 1/2" apart with two lines between. Which mark aligns? Nothing beyond the T for a long way.

cg

Boy! This picture is big!

 

[Guest]

The notches at the end of the cams should face each other. Line the T mark up exactly!
The #1 should point at the surface of the head. You say there should be 18 pins (including the ones over the arrows) between #2 and #3.
Looks like the chain did jump.
Very important to have that T lined up perfectly. You don't have it lined up in any of the pics.

 

[Charlie G]

Sometimes my eyesight isn't to good. Looked at the manual again and it shows the line, which is to the right of the T aligning with the indexing mark. I understand the marks and notches on the cam chain. Thanks for pointing out the notch thing, Chef.

Not to sure on how to keep tension on the chain so it dosen't come the sprockets in the case, but I sure a few choice words are in order to make that work. Should I pull the tensioner off to get slack in the chain so I can rotate the cams to their proper alignment or just turn the knob to make it go slack?

Thanks guys!

Charlie G.

 

[Guest]

To reset the cam chain timing you have to remove the tensioner.

 

[Wallowgreen]

Hey Charlie, been waiting for an update on this thread. Did you get it figured out?

 

[Charlie G]

I've been in bed sick for a few days coughing my arse off. Now my back's out.

I decided I had to pull the cams, as I couldn't get enough slack in the chain, even with the tensioner off. I'm planing on posting some pictures when I'm up and at it again. I had it set once but the mark was lower than the manual stated. I moved it one tooth and it's too high. Now just have to heal up to reset it again. Thanks for checking in.

cg

 

[Charlie G]

This is the position which I decided must be right. If anyone has a different opinion, please speak up!

 

[Charlie G]

This is where she sits now. I plan on moving the sprocket one tooth clockwise so that # 2 aligns with my red mark on the chain and #1 will be just below the surface of the head.

cg

 

[Guest]

That's perfect. Count the links to #3 and put the cam chain tensioner on.
Hold the chain on the intake sprocket when releasing the tensioner to keep it from jumping.