Is it possible to ride these bikes too hard...?

[jrdatrackstar]

I hope this is the right thread...

I have an ?82 GS650GL and was wondering what is considered ?too rough? on these vintage bikes in terms of acceleration and taking off from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear? This is my first bike and I?ve already wracked up around 6,000 miles on it (now at a little over 21,000). The only things wrong with the bike is she leaks oil but other than that an amazing bike and so much fun. I usually take 1st gear to around 5-6,000 RPM (with a little more than 1/4 throttle) and that?s when the power kicks in for me. It sounds a little ?loud? and that worries me when I accelerate from 1-2 gear and don?t want to ?harm? the bike. I enjoy getting the power and torque but also don?t want to hurt the bike if I?m supposed to shift in the 2-3000 RPM range.

All the YouTube videos I see show riders taking these bikes up to around 7-8 RPM sometimes before shifting to 2nd (I?ve definitely done it and this bike isn?t kidding around when you take it it that high). I was curious as to what are everyone?s average riding styles and acceleration habits?

 

[oldGSfan]

I think they are pretty stout, seems to me that Suzuki and Kawi were overbuilt - like old Detroit iron they didn't shave every ounce off with computer modeling and optimization for weight. I generally don't beat on things but don't baby them either. I find that if I'm going that hard on a bike my skills will be the weak link.

 

[Rob S.]

...supposed to shift in the 2-3000 RPM range.

It can be confusing getting a mixed message when the red line is at 9k and the owner's manual suggests shifting at 3k. You can even "short shift" her at 2k if you're in no hurry. Just be prepared to downshift if you need to go.

My CB350 had a tachometer red zone from 9 to 11k, but it went up to 12. Manual said you could momentarily operate anywhere in the red, but to never go beyond. Nice, clear instructions.

 

[zuluwiz]

Read rich83gs750tz's thread in four cylinder engine/drivetrain/clutch about overrevving and what can happen. Suzuki was serious when they set the redlines on these engines. Up to redline is yours to play with.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Ooh, you were so close on that username. I’ll help you out.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?258421-750-TSCC-Rebuild-or-Replace

 

[jrdatrackstar]

It can be confusing getting a mixed message when the red line is at 9k and the owner's manual suggests shifting at 3k. You can even "short shift" her at 2k if you're in no hurry. Just be prepared to downshift if you need to go.

My CB350 had a tachometer red zone from 9 to 11k, but it went up to 12. Manual said you could momentarily operate anywhere in the red, but to never go beyond. Nice, clear instructions.

I think this was the issue that started it for me. The instructions say you should be in 3rd gear by the time you are at like 30mph and I?m like wth! With all that shifting it can be harder to pay attention to riding in the city. It is much more fun to take 1st gear up to 5,000 and then go from there so that you?re at least at 30 by the time you shift to 2nd.


Thanks to everyone who replied, it has eased my mind that I can ride the bike a little ?harder? than the instructions suggest. I will of course always be careful and listen to her sounds (also don?t want to burn through all my gas at 30 miles lol). Speaking of gas, I average around 90-100 miles tops, is this normal MPG?

Thanks again everyone and happy and safe riding!

 

[jrdatrackstar]

Ooh, you were so close on that username. I?ll help you out.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?258421-750-TSCC-Rebuild-or-Replace

Thanks I will check this out

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Speaking of gas, I average around 90-100 miles tops, is this normal MPG?

Is that really Miles Per Gallon, or is that Miles Per Tank of gas? . Maybe others with the same whatever bike you have (put that in your signature, please. No one want to go back to your first post to see if you wrote it or not) can tell you what they get. Personally I've never paid much attention to it because I rarely ride that far that I needed to think much about it. But I think should be somewhere between 30-50 MPG depending on how heavy your wrist is.

 

[jrdatrackstar]

Is that really Miles Per Gallon, or is that Miles Per Tank of gas? . Maybe others with the same whatever bike you have (put that in your signature, please. No one want to go back to your first post to see if you wrote it or not) can tell you what they get. Personally I've never paid much attention to it because I rarely ride that far that I needed to think much about it. But I think should be somewhere between 30-50 MPG depending on how heavy your wrist is.

Good call, and yes that is miles total (so I think I?m around 45 MPG average). I try to ride conservatively when possible (take it up to 5th gear when I?m above 40 MPH) but also ride to have fun since the power is nice on these bikes.

 

[zuluwiz]

I think you'll find that the "conservative " rev limits in the manuals relate mostly to the break-in time, not the life of the bike.

 

[jrdatrackstar]

I think you'll find that the "conservative " rev limits in the manuals relate mostly to the break-in time, not the life of the bike.

Awesome, and honestly that’s what I figured really. The more I have ridden at the higher RPMS the more fun I have been having and can’t wait for my next ride. If this is how the bikes were supposed to be ridden then no wonder they are such classics. I was considering a newer bike but ever since riding a little “harder” on 1st gear I have found I no longer have that desire. A little more torque and acceleration is always nice but as mentioned before:

Its the rider and not the bike (usually).

 

[Guest]

I'd be more concerned with heat than rpm. When you're not moving in traffic on a hot summer day the center cylinders are getting zip for cooling air. They don't have as much finning to start with and sit behind the frame rails and fender and so on. One you're moving there's no problem and higher revs move the oil around faster to help remove heat.

With a stroke barely above two inches, high revs don't result in much piston speed. 9000 rpm = 5000 rpm on a typical car motor. Or thereabouts. The other thing that kills these things is using 'car oil' and not either motorcycle specific oil or a diesel type like Shell Rotella. With the right oil and lots of airflow it's hard to overstress the motor.

If you're stuck idling in traffic you can just shut it off and it will restart with a touch of the button. This will also help to keep the gas in the carbs from boiling.

 

[jrdatrackstar]

This thing definitely cooks my legs (first summer getting to ride a bike). I couldn’t imagine using car oil on a motorcycle, is that common with people with bikes? I would want to baby this thing as much as possible (while also riding it as hard as possible for fun). I’m probably also due for shaft oil change as well. I can search around the forum but what is everyone’s recommended oil (for engine)? I use the Lucas Oil high performance type you can find at Auto Zone or O’Reily (blue sticker).

I usually get her to around 3,000 RPM with “conservative throttle” before she gets “buzzy” (which is what initially concerned me about riding “too hard”). Once I feed more throttle the power kicks in but it’s like a bridge you have to cross before you really get there into the 5,000 and up range.

 

[850 Combat]

45 mpg isn't bad at all if you're riding in town some. Flat out acceleration on my Suzukis seems to benefit from shifting just shy of redline on the tach. If I shift when the acceleration seems to begin tapering off, the tach is not quite to red line yet. It may be the tach is lagging, I don't know. Obviously running to red line every shift will not provide ultimate longevity, but it will still probably outlast me.

 

[Wingsconsin]

I had a 1982 650 GL for 1 summer before I sold it (too small for me)

It was a beast - super quick - up to redline in a hurry and when it kicked into 'super drive' it was a handful

But I would shift out of 1st around 3500 to 4000 and then run 2nd and 3rd up to 7K - by then I was going well over the speed limit anyway

My 850 has seen redline a few times but 7K to 8K is plenty - I think these things will take it all day long if the state of tune is up to par.

Shims , air flow, carbs and oil are needed to be correct to really beat on these things without killing them I think...

My 2? -- for what it's worth

 

[bwringer]

Grip It and Rip It! Spin to Win!

Grip It and Rip It! Spin to Win!

Yes, you can ride these things very, very hard. These engines love to spin, and the happy zone is 6,000 - 9,000 RPM. And they will happily spin hard day after day after day.

My 850 loves to spin and sees redline often.

It's not a good idea to exceed redline by a lot, though. It is possible to float the valves and spit a shim if you really zing it too far. There's no rev limiter as in a modern bike, although there are high-end aftermarket ignition units with this function.


With a few simple upgrades, they also handle and stop phenomenally well.

If you know what you're doing, you can proceed on public roads as rapidly as any modern motorcycle.

I'd also strongly recommend signing up for "software upgrades" in the form of riding classes. I can highly recommend Lee Parks' "Total Control Riding", for example.

There are also many here who have taken their GS to track days with excellent results and no problems.


When I first started attending GS rallies, I was astonished at the number of riders who putt-putted around below 3,000 rpm like little old ladies, terrified their bikes would break somehow if they actually twisted the throttle or leaned a bit.

Aluminum and steel don't give a hoot whether they're brand new or 40 years old. The parts are just as strong today as they were in 1983 or 1978 or whatever. They are extremely well-designed engines manufactured to a very high quality standard, and they were designed and intended to spin and handle.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Have to agree with Brian. I been very bad since overhauling my 1100G head.
Tested 10,000 a few times, looking for the ideal shift point RPM.
9,000 RPM shift point may be ideal, 7,000 is very safe.

 

[Guest]

wind it out, they like it.

 

[alke46]

Have you not heard of the old saying "ride it like you stole it"? From what I am reading here by the OP, you sure as hell are not going to hurt that bike. As mentioned previously, these may be old classics, but they still like to put many smiles on the faces of the riders.

 

[rphillips]

My first GS1100E, 1980, after the first 1,000 mi brake in, was abused every day, both on the street & on the local drag strips till I got rid of it with something over 50,000 mi. Still in great shape. 2 big repairs were a busted clutch hub, normal for the GS1100's, replaced with heavy duty after mkt. hub & never another clutch problem, & a loose rotor, also normal for the early GS1100's., repaired by tightening as tight as possible then welding the nut to both the rotor & the crankshaft, never a problem for me as I never needed to remove the rotor again. I have often wondered if that thing had been ridden normally, ie. from 2,000 to 6,000 & never wide open throttle w/ regular maintenance, I think it could have ran forever, nothing wears out on these things.