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Master-Linked Cam Chain

maddoctor

Forum Newbie
Has anyone heard of using a cam chain with a master link to replace a broken cam chain? My '85 GS700ES had the cam chain break. I've heard about using a replacement cam chain with a master link so you don't have to tear the engine down completely to facilitate repairs.

Any Suzook mechanics out there have advice?
 
Front the street going side I've never seen a masterlink fail...but I carry a spare anyway. I'd be leery of putting a masterlink where access is so prohibited...
 
Hi Mr. maddoctor,

You could rivet a link but it takes a special tool. Z1 should have what you need.


Thank you for your induglence,

BassCliff
 
DON'T use a masterlink on a cam chain! The results after one fails would be catastrophic! Split the cases & do it CORRECTLY with a 1 piece chain. Ray.
 
Yeah, it's one of those things...I mean it probably won't fail, and I've never seen one fail, but it's just such bad news if it does that I would never risk one.
 
If the chain broke while the motor was running, then you bent valves. If the chain wadded up around the crankshaft, then you may have more damage. You need to check that out, a used motor may be cheaper. Actually, some of the guys from Australia use the linked chains and swear by them (they put on lots of miles). I would use one if I was sure it was high quality.
 
there is absolutely no harm whatsoever in using a master link camchain. as long as it is reasonable quality and fitted correctly then the chances of failure are almost non existant. a master link with a spring clip is just as strong as a rivet link.
i have used these links many times and fitted them to other bikes and have never seen or heard of one failing
 
Yes, & Lucas Electrics are the best ever made! There is a REASON all the factories use ONLY continuous chains! Guess what that is?!!! Ray.
 
Yes, & Lucas Electrics are the best ever made! There is a REASON all the factories use ONLY continuous chains! Guess what that is?!!! Ray.
so why dont ALL factories ONLY use continuous final drive chains then?
 
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It might come down to economics. I would think it's cheaper for the manufacturers to use an endless chain due to the fact the cost of a master link and the added cost of connecting a chain with a master link on the assembly line. I used a masterlink on my old Yamaha xs750 camchain and had no problem and if I had to replace my camchain on my 850 I would use a masterlink too, Ted
 
Hi Mr. maddoctor,
You could rivet a link but it takes a special tool. Z1 should have what you need. BassCliff

I wouldn't use a master link cam chain either because of the risk but you can safely replace the the cam chain w/o cracking the cases. I didn't use the Z-1 special tool since I replaced mine over a decade ago but that would be the way to go, ensuring a sound mechanical peen. I replaced mine as follows with the help of a machinist:

1) Grind down one cam chain pin flush to the link plate from the new chain with your dremel tool. Support the cam chain link plates so they cannot bend as you drift out the cam chain pin. Do not discard the link pin.

2) Measure the rockwell hardness (Rc) of the pin, this is critical. I measured mine in a mechanical lab. Have your machinist fabricate another pin from better than or equal to stock, OD to (.0001) and same polished surface finish. The pin length also needs to accomodate for the peening process.

3) I removed both cams and then cut the old cam chain with a dremel cutting wheel. Attached one end of the new cam chain to the old cam chain with safety wire. Turned the crank over till I had both ends of the new chain in hand. Secured the cam chain and then stuffed the cam chain tunnel and everything else with shop rags to avoid Murphy's law.

4) Inserted the new fabricated cam chain pin through both links. Ensure the cam chain links on either side of the pin are moving freely. Recruit a friend for the peening process which of course is another critical step. One person holds a piece of bar stock against the unmolested cam chain pin while the other person on the other side peens the link with their favorite super hard drift. Don't mushroom the cam chain pin by impacting straight on, rather peen the pin at a offset angle like the cam chain manufacturer does. That means you can probably only strike it on either side along a straight line.

5) Check the installed link for freedom of movement. Button it up.
 
No, because they eliminate one more warranty issue possibility! And it would be a VERY expensive one when it happened! Do you see ANY race bikes or GOOD engine builders using a cam chain with a master link? Not in this country! To me it is just common sense. Ray.
 
In my view a quality endless chain has got to be better as there should be no potential weak links (though I contradict myself in the last sentence of this post :confused:) That's what I've always used as a replacement - generally splitting a motor isn't a killer job. Having said that I've had a few bikes with a spring clip link and never bothered to replace them and they've been fine.

However, if I was putting in a chain that needed joining I'd prefer a spring clip over a rivet. The springs's job is only to keep the side plate in place and therefor shouldn't have any side forces on it. As long as the clip hasn't been boogered by bending when putting on / taking off it should be fine. It's also good practice to renew the clip whenever it's been removed.

If you go down the rivet route there are more chances for getting things wrong. Note the effort srsupertrap went to in order to reduce the risk of failure. Heck, I wouldn't know who to get to measure the rockwell hardness - I thought Rockwell was something you Yanks were covering up about aliens ;).

Same thing goes for final drive chains as well in my book. (In fact I've snapped maybe half a dozen final drive chains and they've never broken at the link).
 
Dunno for sure, but arent the GS motors non interference anyway? Or maybe its only the 8v's? Eitherway, im not condoning it either, just thought of that point when someone said bent valves.
 
there is absolutely no harm whatsoever in using a master link camchain. as long as it is reasonable quality and fitted correctly then the chances of failure are almost non existant. a master link with a spring clip is just as strong as a rivet link.
i have used these links many times and fitted them to other bikes and have never seen or heard of one failing
I've definitely seen spring clips fail, several times.

If you're planning on using a masterlinked chain, for the love of god at least rivet it together properly.
 
Oh dear oh dear. i'm away for a few days & look what happens :lol:

Imo using a chain with a spring clip is a big no no !

For those who say dont use a rivet link..... ha ha ha dont be daft think of how the chain is made in the first place ;) yup thats right its a continuous line of rivet links so its not a problem using a rivet linked chain as long as you peen the link over properly, ive done it a few times myself when ive been feeling lazy & covered many thousands of miles with no problems

Tony galea at galea camchains has been dropping in rivet link chains for over 20 years with the guarentee that he will rebuild any engine that fails due to his chains & also repair any other damage caused to the bike in the event of a fall caused by camchain faliure all at his expense :D he's never had to make good that promise yet ;)
 
Well, I can see dealerships taking the high road and insisting on splitting the cases, more labor and more money to rake in, and plus they will ALWAYS find other stuff to r/r while its apart.
IF I had a race bike with a wild cam, I would use a continuous chain.
 
No, because they eliminate one more warranty issue possibility! And it would be a VERY expensive one when it happened! Do you see ANY race bikes or GOOD engine builders using a cam chain with a master link? Not in this country! To me it is just common sense. Ray.
as previously mentioned, yes a good engine builder would not use a chain with a master link, simply because they would have the engine apart anyway, so its easy!
sure i wouldn't fit one to a race bike,track or drag, but a tweaked road bike engine ridden averagely (sensibly most of the time, ridden hard occasionally) then there is no concern for worry.
think about it.......a camchain goes round and round, not at stupidly high speeds relative to the length of the chain, and has a tensioner fitted . maximum lubrication, very little variation in tension and no sideways movement.
a rear drive chain usually has no tensioner, is subjected to massive variations in tension due to suspension travel, sideways stress due to frame/swingarm movement when cornering, plus all the crap the weather can throw at it, often without the full lubrication it deserves.
yet a lot are still fitted with spring master links!

if D.I.D who supply camchains to a lot of the top companies didnt trust a camchain with a spring master link then they wouldn't produce them and sell them
 
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