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Ned's GS750 Cafe project

  • Thread starter Thread starter claygs750e
  • Start date Start date
C

claygs750e

Guest
Ok, so I've posted on here several times, but never actually created a build thread so here goes. First, I've literally never worked on motorcycles before besides the small stuff so this is all a learning experience.

The bike is a 1980 GS750E with 20k mils on it that was sitting since 05. I put a battery in it and after fooling around with the starter button it turned over on the first push. I drove it for a day and the only thing I noticed as being a problem was it was tough to switch gears on the toe shifter.

Since it was at the end of the season I didn't want to plate it and such so I began to tear everything down to the frame. So far I've done the following:
-Removed everything included middle triangle tabs and painted the frame.
-Cleaned and painted the rims and added Avons
-New 14.5 shocks
-Added cafe rear hump
-Upgraded to 530 chain and sprockets

So at this point I have the rear end back on and working on the front. My question is since I'm not putting back on the old exhaust I removed the chrome pieces that helped hold on the pipes that the swing arm bolt went through. Because I removed this the swingarm bolt is now to long. What would you recommend as far as making this shorter? Can I thread further down and then cut off the end?

Thanks in advanced and I'll attach a few pics to see the progress.











 
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Nice work so far.

If you can, you could do as you suggest and thread the bolt further then remove the excess. Alternatively, you can stack washers on either side to fill in the space when the bolt is tightened down if you want to keep the bolt stock. If you have access to a lathe you could also make up spacers if you want something fancier.

In this game there are no hard and fast rules, other than make it safe.

Keep the pictures coming. Its going to be interesting to see what you come up with.
 
I did buy two thick spacers I thought of using, but once I put them on it looks funny because they stick out almost 3/4 inch on both side. I would like to thread it, but do they make taps that big?
 
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For sure they do but you likely could only get them from a specialty machine tool store and they would be expensive. You would likely have more luck having it done by a local machine shop/ tool and die maker.

If you were able to give the dimensions of the bolt, it may be possible that someone has one (from another model) that might be a better fit. Even a wheel axle might work.
 
I had two spacers custom made on a lathe exactly for the same purpose
just make the the same thickness as the bracket and you can use the original nut, no need to thread them.
 
If you go the spacer route and if you aren't going to reuse the aluminum hanger, you could cut off the portion the bolt went through and reshape it to fit.

Mind you even using a spacer it will still stick out that 3/4" you mention.
 
I might have to go the spacer route, but it would look nicer if it were flush with the frame. Ideally I would need to find a shorter bolt which might be difficult. If I end up buying rearsets do they bolt to the same swingarm bolt? If so there it would work out. Not sure if I'm going that route yet.
 
The more I look at the gas tank on this bike the more I don't like it. What are my options to swap out tanks with other years GS without modifications? I like the tanks on the 78 GS. Does anyone know if the length is the same? Would any modification be needed?
 
Well after sanding the tank down to bare metal I'm thinking of sticking with the tank and running it bare. I was able to make some progress tonight and install the forks, front wheel, headlight and clip-ons. Now its down the engine for gasket replacements, cleaning and painting. Leaving electrical to the end since I will struggle. Here's a few pics.




 
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I like what your doing with this, very similar to what im doing with my gsx1100. Ive also been going through the tank indecision like you are, i have GSX tank you currently have and a 78 1000 tank ive been swapping on and off the bike, i think the 78 tank is just a little too wide for my liking and i'm sticking with the same tank you currently have on yours.
I'm flattening (leveling)out the the rear frame and going to use more of a brat style seat that incorporates a smallish duck tail...

your tank is in really good condition, nice and straight, looks great bare metal.

Good job so far mate, keep the updates coming.
 
Does the 78 1000GS tank bolt right on or do you need to make any modifications to it? How much wider is the 78 tank because I thought the one I have was one of the widest. I was really not into this tank until I stripped it bare metal and realized how good condition it was in. I might end up sticking with it, but I would like other options that would take little modification. Its so much fun when you start putting everything back together!
 
Mounts to the same position. So should be the same for you. The 1000 tank certainly seems wider looking down from the top when the tanks are mounted. i'll go measure the bottoms
 
well after measuring the bottoms there is next to no difference, i think though that the 1000 tanks are definitely wider across the middle section, and their profile when looking from above shows that i think.

78 1000 skunk on left, GSX middle, 80 1000e on right.

20131124_170553_1.jpg
 
Just thinking as well, because of your front forks and the GSX leading axel your triples/clip ons will probable hit the 1000 tank. I changed my forks and triples to 41mm 1100 GK. the standard gsx1100 triples didnt clear the tank when they were on.
 
I see what your talking about. Thanks for the pics, that really helps. I think your right about the clip-ons hitting so I might end up sticking with my tank. Now to decide if I want to keep it bare metal and get a more brushes metal look to make it not so smooth so that I can't see the dings so much.
 
Ok, so it looks like I might stick with the current tank I have so now it's time for the engine.

Once I do the outside cleaning of the engine my plan was to just replace the gaskets and then paint. My question is which gaskets should I replace? I'm not familiar with engines at all so I figure I have all winter to clean, paint, replace the gaskets and possibly do any upgrades that are popular upgrades to do. Anyone recommend I do anything else while the engine is out? The only problem I saw from the limited amount of driving was it was a little hard to shift at the toe shifter.
 
Haven't responded in awhile because it has been too cold to work on the bike, but the engine is prepped for paint and about to be installed back in. This leaves me with the electrical which is the part I've been dreading the most.

So I've put aftermarket LED taillights and signals with aftermarket gauges and headlight. I plan on going with the Ballistic battery since it?s the only one I can find that will fit under the hump. I know I need to update the regulator and rectifier, but is there anything else I need to do besides tie the connections into the existing taillight, headlight and signal wires? What would I do with the wires that went to things like the gear lights, oil lights, ect? I?m really inexperienced with electrical so it?s very confusing to me. Thanks guys
 
Couple of questions for yea.
What are those rear shocks from ?

Where did yea get that awesome tail piece and do they come with a seat?

And lastly what model was your bike? I have the opportunity to buy a shaft drive bike that i would like to change to a chain drive(there is another bike that is a runner but it is a mono shock) so this gives me the motor i need but i still need a swing arm. Sorry for the questions just really like what you got so far!

Myles
 
The shocks were cheapos from dime city cycles and the seat is a thruxton also from dime city cycles. The seat actually goes straight back, but I shaved it so it would have a upsweep.

The model of the bike is 1980 GS750E
 
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