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New GS1100 G Restoration Project. Rebuilding my Dad's bike

mate, i have to disagree with that pic of the main jet, there is NO WAY that came like that from the factory. somebody has had a bad screwdriver attack on that at some point....
 
Agemax - you are right. It's ridiculously damaged. Beggars belief really. The main jet must be the easiest one to put in and get out as it has a nice big slot and is easily accessed. Why would anyone have needed to apply so much force to it.

The only logical explanation is that the shop that serviced the bike (in Burlington, Ontario) must have, at some stage, needed to clean the carbs or change the jets. We have owned this bike since new and it has only ever been serviced by one shop in it's life and that would have been between 1984/5 and 1990. Since then it's been in my possession and not touched on the carb front.

The plot thickens.

Greetings
 
Agemax - you are right. It's ridiculously damaged. Beggars belief really. The main jet must be the easiest one to put in and get out as it has a nice big slot and is easily accessed. Why would anyone have needed to apply so much force to it.

The only logical explanation is that the shop that serviced the bike (in Burlington, Ontario) must have, at some stage, needed to clean the carbs or change the jets. We have owned this bike since new and it has only ever been serviced by one shop in it's life and that would have been between 1984/5 and 1990. Since then it's been in my possession and not touched on the carb front.

The plot thickens.

Greetings
Damage like that is usually caused by using a badly fitting screwdriver, even more so if they are screwed in real tight. i would replace them or just give them a good dressing up with a small file. it shouldn't affect their performance.
 
Day 170 More Main Jet Shananigans

Day 170 More Main Jet Shananigans

Got all the main jets out now.

See My GS1100G Blog - Main Jet Shananigans

Who would have done this and why? Does the washer thickness affect the fuel/air mix?

P1050548.jpg

And this looks pretty grim. Why did it need to be tightened so hard? I suppose "115" refers to size.
P1050549.jpg


Greetings
 
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Day 175 Carb Breakdown (part 2)

Day 175 Carb Breakdown (part 2)

Pulling the carbs apart now. Having the usual problems on the way. I had 2 stripped pilot jets, one stripped needle valve screw and a nearly stripped choke assembly nut.

See My GS1100G Blog - Carb Breakdown part 2

I start off by not breaking any of the float pin pegs using the suggested box spanner method.
P1050615.jpg


But one of these had to have the Dremel treatment

P1050631.jpg


Then I got all the needle valves out

P1050622.jpg


And they don't seem to be in bad shape although I will be replacing them as a matter of course

P1050641.jpg


Then it was choke assemblies which proved pretty difficult. It's hard trying to hold the carb assembly and apply enough pressure on the spanner to get them off. Some of my concoction helped.

P1050647.jpg


Now I am wondering how to go about cleaning up these parts without taking the butterfly valves apart. It seems it is not recommended to take these apart.

P1050659.jpg


Greetings
 
Day 175 Pilot Jet Shananigans

Day 175 Pilot Jet Shananigans

These were the big problem. 2 came out easy. One after a bit of persuasion (and concoction) and the final one well ......

See My GS1100G Blog - Pilot Jet Shananigans

This is what we are talking about

P1050627a.jpg


and this was the one that needed persuasion. The head was already quite chewed up when I got to it

P1050663.jpg


And this was the beast

P1050666.jpg


and the tool I made to do it (full details on the blog link above)

P1050674.jpg


Greetings
 
I would take those butterfly valves apart and re-zinc the springs. The concern is when you reassemble that the screws on the valves work loose and head in to your engine. If you peen over the threaded end on reassembly you will eliminate that risk. I've done it many times and never had anything go AWOL.

Great close up photo of the needle valve. I reckon that one is worn out - though that might be the photo telling me that; in reality I doubt I could see that level of detail looking through a magnifying glass so would probably pass it as ok in my garage.
 
I would take those butterfly valves apart and re-zinc the springs. The concern is when you reassemble that the screws on the valves work loose and head in to your engine. If you peen over the threaded end on reassembly you will eliminate that risk. I've done it many times and never had anything go AWOL.

Great close up photo of the needle valve. I reckon that one is worn out - though that might be the photo telling me that; in reality I doubt I could see that level of detail looking through a magnifying glass so would probably pass it as ok in my garage.

In which case I will have a go at taking them apart. I might as well since I have got this far.

The needle valves are marked rather than grooved or damaged but i will rebuild with new in any case.

Greetings
 
Blooming heck you guys. This is getting serious. Those butterfly screws are very shallow. Can't use an impact. Now I need to buy JIS crossheaded screwdrivers AND I have to source butterfly O rings. I don't think even CycleORings has them.

Did you ever feel like you were getting in over your head? I do!
 
I don't think I'd tackle taking the butterfly's apart. Tried it on my 650 and gave up. That spring does look like it needs attention. What do I know. I'm not that experienced.

cg
 
Day 176 Carb Breakdown (Part 3)

Day 176 Carb Breakdown (Part 3)

It was suggested that I should take out the butterfly valves on the carbs. Something I didn't really want to do. Looked like it was beyond my wrenching capabilities. I gave it a go nevertheless. And another mountain has been scaled. I just need one victory every day and it keeps me going.

I just wonder why all the carb strip down tutorials out there don't do this part. Any ideas?

See My GS1100G Blog - Carb Breakdown part 3

This is what I did:

P1050700.jpg


P1050701.jpg


P1050703.jpg


Then you can get the seals out:

P1050710.jpg


I also discovered O rings under the choke assembly nuts. No one mentions these anywhere. Mine are going to be replaced:

P1050715.jpg


Greetings
 
The only logical explanation is that the shop that serviced the bike (in Burlington, Ontario) must have, at some stage, needed to clean the carbs or change the jets.

There's more fastener damage than just for changing jets and the jets themselves. If a shop did that type of work, they wouldn't be in business long. Or maybe shouldn't be in business long. Butchers.
 
Day 179 Carburetor Break Down Part 4

Day 179 Carburetor Break Down Part 4

I was a little too quick to think that getting all the butterflies out would be as easy as it was getting the first one out. Pride before a fall. Carbs 1 and 4 are the easy ones with the cap and circlip. Carb no. 3 has a nut on the end of the butterfly spindle with a bent over washer holding it tight. But carb no. 2 is another matter.

See My GS1100G Blog - Carburetor Break Down Part 4

This is carb no. 3:

P1050718.jpg


It has a nut with a bent over washer. I should be able to manage that:

P1050721.jpg


But carb no. 2 is more problematic:

P1050722.jpg


You can't get this end off:

P1050723.jpg


And there just has to be some trick to getting this off:

P1050726b.jpg


Anyone have any ideas?

Edit: Don't answer that please. I have just discovered the answer and it looks like the forum is very divided about removing butterflies. Some say it is straightforward, other say there is no need. I have a need to get my parts clean and I have started the job so there is no turning back for me. I also have all the seals on order.

If you are interested in the debate, read this old thread (go at least three quarters of the way down the first page which is where the debate about butterflies starts):

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=200906

I agree this is a "do not do this at home children" moment. I have however (don't tell anyone) got a complete set of CV carbs as spares should the worst happen.

Greetings
 
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i think "tutorials" dont mention disasembling buterflies because as you have discovered it can be a tedious job :o ... but it's a proper way to do it if you want to eliminate all sources of a potential leak further down the track

small cross head buterfly screws are availavle and so is the thread lock fluid (such as loctite) so "no prob" really :D
 
i think you'll also find that the gs bikes found in the US have typically done a lot less milegae then the gs bikes found elsewhere (SA, NZ, UK, OZ, EU...) so these moving parts dont get as much wear hence most people on this forum (being in the US) dont consider it a likely problem.

it's just a theory but i have observed it in relation to some other parts that are on the forum typically expected to be "OK" - such as bottom end or wheel or steering bearings, or valve stems diameter, etc

This may well be so when the bike's done say 20-50k miles but once the bike has done 100k miles or more you just cant take these things for granted...


my carbs have leaked on those very buterfly shaft seals (the two outermost on the carb rack) :(
 
Day 182 Carburetor Break Down Part 5

Day 182 Carburetor Break Down Part 5

This carb break down malarky just goes on and on. But there are so many parts. When I have finished I am going to count every single part. Guess now how many parts you think there are in a complete set.

I am emotionally drained today. It was hard work and I had some disasters and some victories.

See: My GS1100G Blog - Carb Break Down Part 5

I had a major problem with "nasty" screw

P1050718a.jpg


which needed Dremeling

P1050778.jpg


and then it snapped off once

P1050782.jpg


then twice

P1050795a.jpg


then I drilled it out

P1050799.jpg


P1050801.jpg


P1050803.jpg


but I went too far and drilled straight through the carb body

P1050804.jpg


I got it all out though

P1050807.jpg


P1050809.jpg


Greetings
 
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I also had to drill out the pilot air jet on this no.3 carb

P1050750.jpg


P1050762.jpg


P1050767.jpg


but I over drilled again. I have lost most of the threads on the carb body and I went too deep.

I now need to get this drilled out and a helicoil or insert fitted. If that is not possible then this carb body it toast. Very glad I have some insurance.

Greetings
 
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