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Paint Suggestions!!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I am getting ready to repaint my bike.... I have found that Rust-Oleum has the colors I want.. Will this work??

They have automotive primer and then the cobalt blue metallic and Flourescent orange.. With this brand work to give me a good finish????

Help.....
 
Rustoleum will work, but from what I hear it will only adhere to Rustoleum. :cry: So you will have to strip everything (which I would recommend anyway) and you would have to use Rustoleum Primer. I dont have a LOT of experience with paint, but so far have had good luck with Plasti-kote, available from my local Auto-parts store.
 
Doze where are you

Doze where are you

Ask Don Kozichenko its his bag
 
Check this also

Check this also

:idea:Don't forget to check out my repaint article also.
http://www.gsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

I'm not sure about Rustoleum but it's always good painting practice to use a primer from the same company that makes the paint. In fact, most paint cans state that. Whether they say this because you "have to" or because they just want more of your money, I couldn't tell you. :wink:

--- Frank ---
 
Thanks.. I read the repaint article.. The only problem is colors... Plastikote doesn't have exactly the right shades that I want to use...and Rustoleum does... just wondered what the difference was..

What about using a Frame Epoxy paint to actually do the job.. PJ1 makes the colors I really want it just that it all epoxy paint.. Will that work???

yes they have primer and clear as well...
 
type of primer is more important than brand, but why add a variable? Stick to the primer of the brand of paint you chose and you will rarely have a problem. As to type, a high solids paint(enamel, acrylic enamel, or any of the "poly's") wil generally stick to a lacquer based under coat, but you will rarely find a lacquer based paint that will stick to the enamel type primer.

Marty
 
rust oleam

rust oleam

i painted a bicycle with the fluresent orand and used a rustoleam clear coat and primer it turned out graet and had a nice shiny smooth finish so i imagine it would work great for the cycle
 
Painting tips

Painting tips

I have used Rustoleum with good results in the past but the clear did yellow after a while. I have had great results with a specialty paint made for model airplanes called Luster Coat. From Top Flight, it is available from most hobby shops. It is a very tough and easy to apply paint and best of all, it has the best one-part clear coat I have ever used! It will not yellow with age. You have to apply the paint in several mist coats to built it up slowly or it will run. It also has a sandable primer for it. Before applying any paint though, make sure to sand, (strip is better) the surface, then use a tack cloth to remove dust and then degrease the surface with MEK or other degreaser. I used this hobby paint on my Windjammer fairing and it is still going strong after a long time, no chipping or discoloration.
Good luck with you paint job.
GY :P
 
Primers

Primers

The reason that most companies tell you to use their products all together is because the primers, paints and clears are all made to work as a team. Paints have to breathe and cure to dry properly and paints makers take that into account. Here's an example:

If Brand 1 has 3 parts of A chemical and 3 parts of B chemical and 3 parts of C chemical then they can make it all work right. If Brand 2 has 2 parts of A chemical and 4 parts of B chemical and 3 parts of C chemical they can make it all work right. But if you mix Brand 1 and Brand 2 you may or may not get the same amount of Chemicals A,B, and C. When that happens you wont get good results. Say that brand 1 needs the clear coat to dry in no less that 8 hours so that the primer and color coat can cure properly, if you use Brand 2's clear coat and it drys in 6 hours your paint job wont be worth the time and effort you put into it. If you don't get good results then the next time you need paint you'll say to yourself Well I used Brand 1 and Brand 2 and the paint job sucked. This time I'll use brand 3 and see how that comes out. Brand 1 and 2 lose a customer when in fact they might have been the better paint. I myself use nothing but Duplicolor on my bike because they have the biggest selection of products and its an automotive type paint. Krylon is another good paint. Both are made by Sherman Williams. I know this was long winded but I hope that it helps. BTW if you use the painting instructions from this site and take your time you will have a beautiful looking bike when you get done.
 
Well guys i'm not sure about spray bombs.But as a ex bodyman
i can repaint or and repair any damaged parts any where from a100.00 to a 150.00 thats factory striped and clear coated. plus shipping let me know Jim :lol:
 
Gas tank painting

Gas tank painting

I too am about to attempt a repaint. I would love to be able to make it the standard paint job but I am not certain I could get it done with the duo color paint on my 82 GS650L. So, I am going to try the solid color job and try to follow the instructions that are in the Garage section. Gonna go with a blue metal flake paint.

Todd
82GS650L
 
The reason you use one paint type is if you have a problem they cannot blame someone else. I just had my bike sprayed two days ago, I work at a Dodge dealership and had to buy lunch (pretty good swap in my eyes) I had them spray a color we use on the stratus it's called ruby red. My hats off to the guys because it came out awesome. I hope to be able to show some pictures of the restoration/modifications soon.I have been taking pictures all along. should make for some good before and afters. I can't wait to show it to the guy I bought it from, he was going to sell the bike to a local dwarf car racer so he could take the engine and trash the bike. I had the same bike 8 years ago and a friend totaled it. I sold the motor to a dwarf car racer and it made me sick.But know it's like a reunion and this time no one rides it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!This is a great site i am lucky to have found it. Dan
 
Painting Engine

Painting Engine

I am planning on painting the engine of my 81 GS850. I am going to go black on everything except the side cover and exhaust. If I remove the exhause, and tape the side covers I think I will be ok. Any other things I need to worry about???
I figure I probably shouldn't paint the carbs either. So I'll take then off and cover the intakes from that and the exhaust holes with.....something...
Suggestions?
 
you can just stuff pieces of rag in each port, and that will work. But a good paint job is down to good preparation, so cover them with paper and mask with tape.
Dink
 
gettin ready to paint

gettin ready to paint

I too am getting ready to paint, but need suggestions on 2-toning it... what I wan't is a jet black (maybe metal flake) base with either silter or metal flake long triangle inserts. I was thinking of using magnet-stencils as masking on the tank. I really need a better way of going about this. I also need to paint a windjammer 4 fairing and saddlebags, and need hints. Thank you, ~Ben Reilly
 
Saddlebags/fairing

Saddlebags/fairing

All you have to do to paint the bags/fairing to to make sure you have all the clear coat off of them. Then sand them up and paint them as normal. Be easy with the sanding so you don't make and gouges in the plastic/fiberglass.
 
what type of paint

what type of paint

I too am in need of a paint job . The previous owner must have repainted but it looks ratty now . The problem I'm having now is if any gas is spilled on the tank the paint instantly softens (so you cant wipe the gas off) then leaves a wet looking or worse mark . Is this caused by the type of paint ?? I do not want this to happen when I finnish all the work of repainting
 
Re: what type of paint

Re: what type of paint

david lewington said:
I too am in need of a paint job . The previous owner must have repainted but it looks ratty now . The problem I'm having now is if any gas is spilled on the tank the paint instantly softens (so you cant wipe the gas off) then leaves a wet looking or worse mark . Is this caused by the type of paint ?? I do not want this to happen when I finnish all the work of repainting

Yes, it is the type of paint to a large extent.

I did mine with Canadian Tire primer, base and clear coats, in spray cans.

Came out excellent, and I even baked it and let it sit for two weeks before putting the bike back together. I spilled gas on it, and tried to wipe it off.

Bad mistake...took off the the clear coat and badly smudged the paint. on the tank. I wa so upset, I took it off and repainted it.

Since then I have learned not spill gas, but an overfill gave the results you mentions....streaks in the paint.

You need a better grade of paint. I asked at the local UAP/NAPA store and they recommended not using the spray cans they sell, as the same result is probable. Their recommendation was to use professional paint.

EARLFOR recommended Dupont IMRON as the best stuff to use and the UAP/NAPA people agree with him, saying it is definitely the toughest paint around, but you MUST take ventilation/breathing precautions when applying it. It does not come in cans; you need an air compressor and spray equipment, and only a few locations actually sell it, plus it costs a bit more than other paints.

Other automotive paints will also work, and UAP/NAPA sells them, but you apparently need one with a catalyst that is put in immediately prior to spraying to get the most resistance to gasoline.

One recommendation: whatever paint you choose, it's best to get primer, base, and clearcoats all from the same manufacturer.
 
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