Project:1980 GS1000g

[Dogma]

...

I hope I made the proper adjustment. If I didn't, someone please smack some sense into me

Thanks for looking.

~GSJohnny

Should be good as long as you measured to the right place on the float (a common mistake).

 

[GSJohnny]

Should be good as long as you measured to the right place on the float (a common mistake).

I measured it according to this picture.

Not from the highest point but just at the shoulder of the float, clear to the metal where the gaskets sits.

If I didn't do this right, I know I will have a mess on my hands.

Any more assurance would be appreciated.

 

[Guest]

You did it right. Start her up, ride it, and see what happens.

 

[GSJohnny]

Thanks for the help guys.

- So far I have completed throwing on all the extra "linkages" and brackets and such onto the carbs. Also did a bench sync. Looks and feels good.

- Now I am starting to tackle the general clean up and seal replacement on the clutch cover and such.

- Due to my oil cooler being very damaged, I was thinking about just taking it off till I can replace it.

- What should I do about the oil cooler "?sending unit?" part in the mean time?

- Can I just cap it off? Clamp a hose between the two ports to make a bypass?



I'm hoping to get this beautiful bike back on the road before the nice weather goes away. I'll do a full tear down some other time.


Appreciate your interest.

~GSJohnny

 

[Guest]

Can't see why you can't loop the hose one to the other. There's no reason for you to need an oil cooler. The bike will run perfectly without it. If you want a regular sending unit let me know, I've got a shed full.

 

[Guest]

I have someone that wants that fitting and I'd like it myself for when I'm stuck in traffic during a 105 degree melter. The bike didn't come with coolers and except for the previous example it really isn't nessesary, but it is good insurance. Looking over your thread I hope you gave up on the shaft/chain conversion. I have both bikes and love them both, but they are night and day opposites in characteristics. I rebuilt the carbs on both and serviced the drive train on both. The G won on both accounts. I actually can't understand how some on here prefer mechanical slide carbs over CV carbs and chain over shaft unless they have never had the chance to compare them with actual seat in the saddle milage with them. The only plus I give the chain drive is the ability to change the final drive ratio. But how often do you need to do that if your not taking it to a track? Same with the carbs. Yeah there is a greater degree of tuneability to the older VM, but again that is only really needed if it will be seeing a race track. Chain drive = frequent Cleaning + Lubrication + Tension Adjustment + Proper Wheel alignment and eventually chain and sprocket replacement. Shaftdrive = Tranny and Differential Hypoid oil change at around 10,000 miles. Undo drain plugs, drain, replace drain plugs, remove fill plugs, refill to bottom of refill hole and replace fill plugs. Ride another 10,000 and repeat. PS that is something to check on your things to do list. Don't count on the OP to have done this, it's not uncommon for people to never change it. Just saying.

 

[GSJohnny]

Thanks for the response AZR. Can't wait to roll up on ya on this thing haha.

GSRick - I gave up on the chain conversion the next day after posting that haha. I do plan on reinstalling an oil cooler on the bike so I plan on holding onto the fittings.

I'll be checking on the hypoid oil asap. Thank you for the tip.

---

- I was out last night working on getting the clutch cover oil leak sealed up and I ran into some trouble.

As I reinstalled the clutch cover and bolted everything down, I went to pull the clutch cover and I felt basically no resistance. I deduced this was because that little rack/pinion shaft that actuates the clutch somehow wasn't aligned properly.

So I pulled everything apart expecting to see that little shaft flipped 180 degrees... It wasn't. So I began fiddling with the cover and twisting the clutch actuation shaft CCW and CW trying to get the shaft and gear to mesh properly.

After about 6 attempts I finally got it on there to where the clutch has good resistance through the whole range of motion.

I believe its working properly now but I can't help but be a little annoyed with the installation.

- Is there a proper procedure to install the clutch cover on these bikes? Or will I have to install and re install the cover and fiddle with the clutch shaft till I get it right?



Thanks for your time folks.

~GSJohnny

 

[gustovh]

Do the loop on the oil hose for the cooler, since you will be replaceing it with another. When replaceing the clutch cover I start with the acuator lever faceing out about 90 deg from where it ends up and slip the cover on, the lever should rotate into place, if not figure why and try again. Should take little to put it on as long as you are lined up properly.
V

 

[gustovh]

OK Johnny, where you at on the project?
V

 

[GSJohnny]

OK Johnny, where you at on the project?
V

Heya good sir.

Progress is slow. (fighting a flu bug )

I also ran into some issues with the air box. This thing was completely filthy with oily gunk inside and out and I could not pick it up without getting black on my fingers.

I was thinking there was no way to get good clean air to the carburetors with this issue...

So I cleaned the damned thing.

Took the better part of a day.

Whoever worked on the bike before knew that it had air leak problems (not because of the air box) but because of the intake boots. So they slapped a bunch of gunky nasty tar-like black adhesive to the rubber gasket/seal on the sides of the air box where the covers are thinking that would fix it.

No amount of degreaser or soap and water would take it off so I picked it off with my fingers.

Also the internal filter foam seal just fell apart in my fingers as soon as I touched it so I am working on fixing that.

Sorry no before shots:

Looks pretty good now. (no weatherstripping inside yet)

Photo of the rubber seal: Are these still in good shape?

More air box photos:

Well that's where I'm at now.

Thanks for your interest.


~GSJohnny

 

[GSJohnny]

Forgot to mention.

I built this as well.

Quick question. Does it look like this UNI filter needs to be replaced? Can I clean it?

Thanks again for interest.


~GSJohnny

 

[Guest]

You can clean that filter and re-oil it, remember to just do a light oiling though. New filters are cheap though. THAT is one sweet temporary fuel tank, even has a filter and a valve!!! nice.

 

[rustybronco]

Are these still in good shape?

Those still look like they'll work okay, although you'll need to re-glue them onto the air box so they will stay in place while you attach the chrome end pieces.

 

[GSJohnny]

Those still look like they'll work okay, although you'll need to re-glue them onto the air box so they will stay in place while you attach the chrome end pieces.

What should I re-glue them with?

~GSJohnny

 

[rustybronco]

Possibly yellow weather strip adhesive? I used Indian head gasket cement to glue mine on only because it's what had on hand.

 

[GSJohnny]

-:BACK FROM THE DEAD:-

Well, sorta...

It has been far too long since I have posted any progress on the bike and I feel the need to share.

School is winding down and I finally have enough time to work on the GS.


Fresh boots make me happy:

IT LIVES!!!:

After fitting the carbs and air box, I went ahead and cranked the bike over. Within a minute the bike was up and running (fairly smooth I might add) much better than it was when I brought it home a few years ago.

My triumph was bittersweet...

Things seemed to be coming together smoothly when I noticed that my air box was sitting too high.

The mount holes do not line up.

Even after pushing the air box down with a good amount of force, there was still about an 1/8" to go.

Not exactly sure what is going on. I took quite a bit of care making sure all the boots were in the right position and orientation.

Another pic for reference.

Curious as to what you guys think. Everything went together fairly smooth. Is it possible that I have the intake boots upside down? The carbs seem to have a lot of forward tilt to them.



I plan to have the carbs synced, bike reassembled and ready to ride by Sunday. Hopefully I can take advantage of some of this amazing weather we are having in Oregon.


Thanks for your time.

~GSJohnny

 

[Guest]

Loosen both the intake and airbox clamps, then bolt up the airbox 'lightly' and then the both clamps, that should do the trick. Usually this problem is the reverse, you can't get the airbox to go high enough for the bolts to line up and it's usually just due to harness wires being in the way. Which way did you put in the intake boots? letter up or down? they are on the right way...right? I mean the ones marked 'L' on the left, 'R' on the right.

 

[Dogma]

The intake pipes ("carb boots") are upside-down. At least, that's what it looks like to me. The carb bodies should be parallel to the ground, as shown in your previous pics in this thread.

Carbies look great, btw.

 

[GSJohnny]

So I removed the carbs and checked the boots. The L marked boots and R marked boots are on the correct sides. The letters were pointing upwards. Should they be pointing downwards?


Thanks for your time guys.


~GSJohnny

 

[Guest]

try doing what I said earlier, loosed both the air and intake clamps and then bolt up the airbox, then tighten the clamps.